do i really need a connecting rod gauge?
http://www.goodson.com/g5-bin/client...n=1&item=P5568
Do it like the book says. Then put a Torque wrench on it and confirm that you're in the mid-30's.
Scott, who suggests that there's a reason good builders charge what they charge....
Of course some probably sell for less cause they bought this instead: http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...rchType%3DBoth
[Modified by RR98ITR, 11:34 AM 9/19/2002]
Do it like the book says. Then put a Torque wrench on it and confirm that you're in the mid-30's.
Scott, who suggests that there's a reason good builders charge what they charge....
Of course some probably sell for less cause they bought this instead: http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...rchType%3DBoth
[Modified by RR98ITR, 11:34 AM 9/19/2002]
What do you guys think is better, a mechanical or an electrical connecting rod gauge?
And where would I mount it?
On the A-pillar I already have piston gauge, cam-shaft gauge and push-rod gauge (very useful).
TIA for all the help.
-Kamil
And where would I mount it?
On the A-pillar I already have piston gauge, cam-shaft gauge and push-rod gauge (very useful).
TIA for all the help.
-Kamil
well that sucks it's lil too expensive for me and i wouldn't get it in time. for gsr's the connecting rod nut is tightened to 33 lb/ft and Ls 23 lb/ft. does 35 lb/ft sound good for me. has anyone done it this way before?
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