Hello, I have done three valve adjustments already trying to quite my valve train. It has gotten much better but it seems a few valves could be bent ( really only audiable when cold, when warm nothing ) . I am already looking into a leakdown test to pinpoint the problem. When and if I need to replace the bent valves is it recomended that all the valves be replaced ? or just the damaged ones ? my car only has 25k and I'm sure if the others arn't bent then there would be no point - but this is a first for me working on a B series valvetrain. I also asume that this would be the best time to have cams & springs installed due to head being removed correct ? Much thanks in advance , I know I'm a nOOb but you have to start somewhere !!




[Modified by PlantedGSR, 6:51 AM 9/17/2002]

 

Yeah, just replace the bent valves. If you're considering cams & springs, then yeah now would be the time. Inspect everything carefully, particularly the valve guides. Good luck.

 

Who are you gonna get to do your work

 

DRAG III , not sure yet - would the dealer be someone to approach this with ? I don't want em to drive it around and say " our techs test drove it and nothing seems to be wrong " when in fact it is - also I don't want some shabby compresion test instead of a leak down. I do know a respectable honda/acura tech shop and am leaning toward that - any ideas ? if acura finds the valves are bent is this covered under warrenty ? Thanks to both of you !!!

 

Any idea how this would've happened? The rev limiter should've prevented this, and you're way too early to be messing up your timing belt. Missed downshift? If it's under warranty have the dealer look at it first, but if you end up having to pay, look elsewhere. I mean yeah, get an estimate from the dealer, but I'm certain it'll be really high, like $2k or so, greedy. There's nothing wrong with compression tests BTW, if they're done right. They're allot easier than leakdown testing, and require very little equipment. Now if the compression test shows a problem or is inconclusive...then move to the leakdown test to pinpoint the problem.

 

i think they only sell valves in sets, so you cant just buy one or two. i just replaced the whole head as i found one for dirt cheap. it was newer and had better cams too.

 

Well I bought the car used about 1 month ago , had 22k on it, two slightly bald front tires and noisy valves - got it for a good price. Possibly I need to do another adjustment on the lashings ?
It goes like this , I start the car in the morning - first 15-20 seconds REAL loud ticking ( assuming this is the valvetrain minus oil, when its nice and coated it calms down ) it will idle up around 1.5k real smooth, after about 2min down a bit to 1.1k still smooth <U> BUT </U> when it reaches the revs it normally runs at ( <U>idle</U>) it will begin to tick - like I said I've done 3 adjustments and it STILL may not be right ( reading from some of the searched post I may need to try again ) and only a little ticking when acceling to about 1.8k then it will go away OR the wind is just to loud to hear. Its almost like you can hear one or two idividual valves knocking which leads me to beleive bent valves or still incorrect adjustments
I have the proper tools for adjustments but am now reading how important it is to gauge the clearence from the inside of the head NOT from the outside in.
From these simptoms any of you think I should just wait and try another adjustment this weekend ? it was a little warm 78-81 degrees out AFTER I let the motor cool down over night , but still I guess thats a little warm - maybe some ice bags and an area fan next time
Opinions ??? and again I appreciate any comments !!! If any of you need help in the future I'll do my best !

 

This is the price from the dealer -
32.02 for GSR valve(s)? 14721-P75-000 Exhaust
20.87 for GSR valve(s)? 14711-PR3-000 Intake

I wondered if this is for each or what I can't really tell from the site - couldn't amagine getting 8 valves for only 20-32$ though ? but I could be wrong.

This is where I'm looking - www.acuracarland.com
Go to Service then Part Catalog & I'm searching for a 2001 GSR under Engine then Head & Valves
Thanks

 

Anyone else ? do you think that 78-81 degrees is still to hot even though I let it rest overnight ?

 

If you had a bent valve you would know it. Any little thing that stops the valve from being totally seated would result in no compression for that cylinder. How does the car accelerate/ run?

It sounds like you need a pro to adj. your valves. I think your doing something wrong. Don't be afraid to adj. you valve a little on the tight side. For example, alot of drag on the feeler guage .

 

My car accelerates fine maybe a tiny bit of hestitaion but that could just be me getting used to the non-torque B18c - it idles fine , not rough - occaustionaly(sp ) the idle raises but only for loads like lights, window up/down & fan ect. I always thought a little hessitation could be the knock sensor retarding the timing due to pings. I also tried the "paper" test against the tailpipe and it doesn't really "suck" in that much.
Adjustments could be the problem for sure , like I said it was hot out and things could have changed because of it & the fact I measured the clearence from the outside instead of the inside ( like helms instructed ) maybe also a reason ? Sucks I have to wait a whole week to tell hehe ! but if that doesn't work I'll just take her to the best shop I can find for a adjustment.

Thanks !

 

lol ya im sure its per valve. www.acuraautomotiveparts.net