How long has your motor lasted so far? How much did it cost to build?

 

8k plus so far. I built it myself, so no cost.

 

thanks i'm planing on building it with a freind just wantd to see how much u guys have put into u setup so far and how is it running? i met a guy and he said his is running terrible and is trying to get rid of it. but i willing to do this setup.

 

It all depends on how you want to do it. If your going to run higher compression pistons you NEED to get the CRV re-sleeved. Same with going FI - if your going anything over 8psi just get the thing resleeved so you dont even have to THINK about it being the wink link in your setup.

So it depends, just want a STOCK CRVTEC? Going for a higher ouput N/A setup? Forced Induction? Cost buildup will vary based on many things. Most setups that I see that people are "building it right" spend about $3500-$5000 for the whole shibang.

 

vWhy are you so set on sleeving for higher compression pistons on the CRVT ? I have an LSVT and know on those you don't NEED to sleeve for higher compression... OR for FI for that matter and I've already run it turbo'd to 8K with no problems.

Anyone know the R/S ratio on a B20 block ?

I don't think you would need to sleeve for low boost or a mildly high CR, doesn't make sense.

Anyone care to enlighten me on this ?

X2

 

yes i'm going to run higher compression pistions and i will resleeve the block and bore it to 84.5mm. i think i will be running 11:1 or mabe a little higher i am planing on going n/a. well thanks for the response

 

Bro, the LS sleeves and CRV sleeves are TOTALLY differant, the LS sleeve design is much better - which is why you dont need it.

 

Well, that kinda sucks... I thought the block was almost the same as the LS/GSR design...

What's so different/ bad about the B20 block exactly ?

 

I dunno I didnt design them

It has to do with the sleeving - early B20's (dont know about newer ones) had some kinda flaw I guess. Like I said I dont know the specifics im just running my mouth - like the news is with this "Terrorism" thats going on in Florida right now. LOL

 

No new news on that yet.... but the damn guys had a Prelude !

 

r/s 1.54

I run 11.2 c/r and a 100 shot and I haven't cracked a sleeve.
I do wish my block had some GE sleeves.

B20 blocks have siamese sleeves that are supossed to be stronger, but because they are 3mm thinner they tend to crack.

11.1 is low compression in my book, and will be fine with stock sleeves

 

mine's been running strong for about 11 months now.
sorry, don't know exact mileage.

 

exactly. The b20 block contains 1 big, siamesed sleeve, whereas all the other b-series blocks are 4 individual sleeves. I have a b20 vtec running Endyn high-comp. pistions- you'll want to sleeve if if you're going to run high-comp. pistions. The nice guy I talked to at Golden Eagle said it's VERY common for the b20 sleeve to crack where the two cylinders come together. Here's crappy pic:

 

If you are going to resleeve the block anyway, why not get a B18C block? It will bolt up to a VTEC head without having to run external oil lines for VTEC and all that.

 

thats what im sayin....and a gsr block is cheaper than a b20 nowadays anyway....i used to have a 2.0 liter gsr block and it was really nice...

 

My friends 96 hatch has a CRVTEC, .50 over JE 12.5:1 pistons, stock rods, Portflow GSR head, CTR intake cam, sprockets, Skunk manifold, JDM ITR header, RC 310cc injectors, Type R ECU and VAFC for fuel. His best run with no passenger or rear seat is 12.6@107 on M&H 22x9.5x13s. He's had it for several months now and still running great. It costed roughly $8,000 but it was definately worth it.. I personally still would rather have a GSR block, just sleeve it up to 85mm which bumps ur displacement to 1.98L or 86mm 2.03L. Who cares about the 1.8mm of stroke that a CRV or LS has over the GSR. Either one is tight tho