I recieved a set of rings designed for use with the JE/SRP pistons. No instructions or anything. Was wondering if it is important to have correct end gap for turbo applications?

Also, how many of you just pop them in without measuring/filing and have had no problems at all?

 

It is extremely important as if you dont have the correct ring gap you can lose efficienty (sp) and your leak down test will be very bad.. When you throw alot of boost on it as well you risk lifting a ring land..

 

You can't be serious? Of course it's important to set the ring gap. For turbo applications use about .006 per inch of bore (about .018-.020), second ring at about .045 per inch of bore ((about .015) and just make sure the oil rings don't overlap. These gaps allow for heat expansion in the ring. Without the gap the rings will butt together and wipe out a cylinder.

 

Can I use a regular old file to file them down? And is there some sort of 'angle' that I gotta do it or just make it perfectly 'straight up and down'? Also, do I just use a one way motion or can I do a back and forth motion on it?

Thanks.

 

Also the two oil rings that sandwich the oil ring expander, I can just slap those in?

 

Also Earl, for those numbers that you gave me, is that with the head off? Because with the head bolted on the cylinder walls distort somewhat

 

What does it mean to have your rings "lift" or "un-seat"?

 

If you are going to use a file, put the file in a vice to hold it horizontally. Butt both ends of the ring on each side of the file and push it away from you on the file. When you get the desired gap you must lightly deburr the funky edges before installing the ring on the piston. Remember the upper ring is much harder than the second ring so be careful not to overdo the filing on the second ring.
As long as the 2 oil rails don't overlap each other, you are ok on those. If they do overlap, you have the wrong rings.
Ring gaps are done with the head off. Honda cylinders do not distort when the head is installed as they are full floating cylinders, unlike the V-8's. I guess you would have to be very small to check the ring gaps while the head was installed anyways
The key to doing the ring gap is to measure the ring while it is perfectly straight in the cylinder. To do this, put a piston in upside down and push the ring about an inch down the cyl or until it is straight. Use WD40 so u won't scratch the cyl.
If u install the ring on the piston and it does not move freely, it's because you didn't deburr it good enough. Good luck


[Modified by earl, 3:53 PM 8/3/2002]


[Modified by earl, 3:55 PM 8/3/2002]


[Modified by earl, 3:57 PM 8/3/2002]

 

How do you measure the gap while the pistons in the bore?

Seems like you would need some sort of calipers, but the manual I have says use a feeler gauge.

 

Put the ring in the cyl and push the ring in alignment using the top of the piston, then pull out the piston and measure the ring gap with feeler guage.

 

don't overdo 'em...I did, but luckily not to the point of no return....you can buy a ring fler from summit for 30 bucks