acmoc

Hi, I just tried to put in a mishimoto radiator, it didn't fit so I just put my stock one in and installed the slim fan, with the kit of zip ties. but now my car overheats after 3000 rpm.
any ideas, this is my only car, so any help would be appreciated.
I have new hoses and a new cap so I know that's not it
I was thinking, maybe I didn't use the right 50/50 mix of antifreeze. or I have air in my system, and it builds up pressure like crazy under the cap there is this loud hiss

The fan I thought, might not work as good as the stock one.
It starts later, even though I used the same switch, maybe it's my connections loose.
The fan is set to pull instead of push, maybe that's it. What is the stock fan set to, push or pull?
To make the fan a push fan, do I just cross the wire polarity
How do I get the air out of my system, and how do I make the fan a push, is pull better or push

My upper hose is hot, I installed a new thermostat a month ago
Could the zip tie kit have damaged my stock radiator?

I don't have leaks I'm pretty sure.
Thanks, any help appreciated



Modified by acmoc at 11:51 PM 10/30/2008

exz0n-.-

you could try burping your coolant, that happend to my friends car once and it just had a huge air bubble, after that it was fine

acmoc

how do you do that<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by exz0n-.- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you could try burping your coolant, that happend to my friends car once and it just had a huge air bubble, after that it was fine</TD></TR></TABLE>

redef90si

iTrader: (3)

take your rad cap off and let you car run.Turn on the heat as well. my 2 cents...

acmoc

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redef90si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take your rad cap off and let you car run.Turn on the heat as well. my 2 cents...</TD></TR></TABLE>
K I'll try that tomorrow,
anyone know hot to make the fan a push, don't I just cross the wires

EGfosho

You will need a funnel(one that snugs in the radiator nice and tight) and put it where you fill the radiator, some auto stores sell a radiator cap that has a funnel attach to it.
1. crank the engine
2. hold funnel and fill the radiator until its half way up the funnel
3. just stand there and see bubbles(burps) come up the funnel while the car warms up.
4. Keep filling the funnel so it will stay half full while the fan kicks in about three times(remember to keep filling it when the fan kicks in, because if you let it take all the fluid in the funnel then air can still get trapped in the radiator)
5. Put radiator cap back on.
Probably while you are doing this have someone once in a while check your temp gauge to see where it is at.
I think you wait like 10-15min for the fan to kick in if the engine was cold when you start it.

acmoc

Thanks, how do I make the universal fan a push fan, don't I just cross the polarity

EGfosho

push meaning the fan would be blowing air towards the front of the car?

acmoc

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGfosho &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">push meaning the fan would be blowing air towards the front of the car?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea yea, rite now it's pulling, like from the radiator to the car, I think this could be an issue to.
Do I cross the polarity on the wires, or do I have to flip the fan blades, I can't really flip the blades cuz it's already installed. I saw a thread here once that said You cross the wires

tico

okay for the fan issue u nees to tell us more. is the fan on inside of the engine bay or outside? what i would do if u decide to cross polarities would disconnext the battery from ur car and run a positive and negative wire to the connecter the swap them and see what happens

acmoc

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGfosho &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You will need a funnel(one that snugs in the radiator nice and tight) and put it where you fill the radiator, some auto stores sell a radiator cap that has a funnel attach to it.
1. crank the engine
2. hold funnel and fill the radiator until its half way up the funnel
3. just stand there and see bubbles(burps) come up the funnel while the car warms up.
4. Keep filling the funnel so it will stay half full while the fan kicks in about three times(remember to keep filling it when the fan kicks in, because if you let it take all the fluid in the funnel then air can still get trapped in the radiator)
5. Put radiator cap back on.
Probably while you are doing this have someone once in a while check your temp gauge to see where it is at.
I think you wait like 10-15min for the fan to kick in if the engine was cold when you start it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks i'm guessing I trapped air in my sytem, it was taking allot of coolant [ i've done this before and don't remember it taking so much, and the car ran fine, does the radiator get all wet like it's leaking when ou're filling it up] so I got nervous and started the car. I bet the thermostat opened up and I filled it up once i saw it wasn't leaking, trapping an air bubble. I remember the last time I did this my manual said to let it run 10 min w/o the cap, I did that last time and theiir was no bubb;es, this time their was

acmoc

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tico &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">okay for the fan issue u nees to tell us more. is the fan on inside of the engine bay or outside? what i would do if u decide to cross polarities would disconnext the battery from ur car and run a positive and negative wire to the connecter the swap them and see what happens</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea it's on the inside of the car, pulling air towards the inside

acmoc

I found this, but it's confusing.
http://www.jegs.com/Installati...0.pdf
Flip the blades and cross the wires?

dc2crx

if your fan is on the inside raditor to car, you want it to pull. if you have it this way already, bleed your coolant system by "burping" it. i think thats the pin-point of your problem.

Jet805

sounds like a thermostat. Probably stuck partially open so when you get the RPMS up it over heats.

I had a similar problem it would over heat on the highway and cool off during in town driving. Had to call my dad to bring me tools and we just took it off so i could drive home lol. *its back on now.

If he has an air pocket in his coolant it wont matter what the rpms are. Its esentially the same thing as a blown HG when an air pocket forms the collant cant flow.

Red_ED8

iTrader: (1)

If you don't mind me asking, what mishimoto radiator did you get? Did you get one for a EF (full size) or EG (half size)? I've seen a couple of my friends with mishi radiators in there car's (EF's and EK's) and they all fit nice. And don't cross your fan wires, your fan is not the problem. Sound like an air bubble or your thermostat like previously noted.

DSRxCandyh2bEG

iTrader: (4)

y do u wanna flip the fan from pull to push. if you change it to push, then you'd wanna put the fan on the other side of the radiator and flip the fins if required by the fan.

do this:
Before you install the fan, hook it up to a battery and flip the polarity, then see if it blows hella air or not. Compare it to when its hooked up the proper way... use that to guage the ammount of air it is pushing vs pulling. If it feels about the same, then you probably don't need to flip the blade... Good luck...

acmoc

thanks guys for all the help.
I found the problem, It was a giant air bubble and my fan connections were not secure, thermostat is fine.
I burped the system today and it stayed below medium, I also removed the slim fan for now and put on the original. Here's where another problem comes in,
seems the previous owner tightened the bolts for the fan too tight and they punctured the radiator, on both bolts. so without the bolts their I was loosing coolant.
Rite now I tried some JB weld as a temporary fix, do you guy think that is okay to cover the holes?

As for the fan, I checked my fuse[ number 15 i believe] It's good,
and the slim fan, I wanted to make a push because I thought that was the way the stock one moved. But i looked at my stock fan, and it seems it's set to pull also, Is this correct. I guess I never noticed it because the slim fan moves so much air.

The radiator [full ef] doesn't clear my rad support or my cross-member, I'm returning it. I just ordered a new stock radiator I'm also looking for the fan switch rite now too, because the negative plug on the female connector seems to be going in when I insert the male and it won't connect well.
I just need confirmation that the stock fan is a pull not a push, mounted inside; so fan on the inside pulling air towards the inside away from the radiator is how it should be, rite.
Thanks

edit, the fan just moves in another direction if polarities are crossed, and the blades have to be flipped to move air more efficiently in that direction.




Modified by acmoc at 1:05 PM 10/31/2008

EGfosho

The whole point of having a fan on the radiator is it acts like if the car is going high speed while driving low speeds. Think about it. While you are driving, the wind blows air through the radiator which is towards back of the car. So you want the fan work the same way. You know your fan doesn't turn on while you are driving on the freeway.

ErrDizzle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jet805 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like a thermostat. Probably stuck partially open so when you get the RPMS up it over heats.

I had a similar problem it would over heat on the highway and cool off during in town driving. Had to call my dad to bring me tools and we just took it off so i could drive home lol. *its back on now.

If he has an air pocket in his coolant it wont matter what the rpms are. Its esentially the same thing as a blown HG when an air pocket forms the collant cant flow. </TD></TR></TABLE>

sounds like the thermostat is stuck <U>closed</U>, therefore not allowing coolant to flow into the radiator to cool the motor.

acmoc

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ErrDizzle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

sounds like the thermostat is stuck <U>closed</U>, therefore not allowing coolant to flow into the radiator to cool the motor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
No, It's OK, I fixed the problem already, here's the solution
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc2crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your fan is on the inside raditor to car, you want it to pull. if you have it this way already, bleed your coolant system by "burping" it. i think thats the pin-point of your problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I know it wasn't the thermostat because it's only a week old and my radiator hoses get hot and the coolant is flowing.
I had a huge air gap, that's why my heat was fluctuating especialy on throttle, and fan wasn't coming on either
thanks hondatech

acmoc

Hi again, my car still overheats, but only on the freeway. I if I depress the clutch, it cools down and If I pull over too, I loosened the rad cap and it got me home. Could it still be air pockets. In the city, it doesn't overheat. I will try to install my new radiator tomorrow, and properly bleed and refill the system

fireant

Tell us about the head gasket on your car. Original? New? MLS?

acmoc

New
I'm going to wait til I swap out the radiator,
Because y 'know, once those start to go bad, you pretty much have to get a new one.
So. I have one on order already, that I can get as soon as monday. I'll post another update after then. Thanks

fireant

It might be worth draining all the oil into a clean pan to see if it looks like there is coolant in it. If not, you can pour it back in.

There's a possibility at high-revs there is enough stress to let combustion bleed into the water jacket...but that's really something that happens more to the high-rev and high-compression motors, from what I've read.

You could also re-torque your head studs/bolts just for assurance. Dont loosen them, just torque them once more to the last step. If one moves, then maybe it was loose.

Good Luck.