I'm planning on getting the Skunk 2 stage cams with upgraded valve springs and retainers. The only other mods I have are I/H/E. Will the car work fine? What can I expect? I know I'll need it dynoed, but not right away. I've heard you can have idling problems with the Stage 2. Some guy at a shop told me I'd gain and extra 20 hp with the Stage 2. I don't really believe him. He told me he could get me all Skunk2 Stag2 cams, retainers, and springs for 1175.00 Is this a good price? Also, he said I could get it installed for $375. What do you guys think. I did a search already, and didn't find the answer I was looking for.

Thanks,

96 GSR

 

I've had Skunk2 Stage 2 Cams (and upgraded valve train) on my car for about 4 months now and have not had any issues. The car idles like stock and the high cam does produce power. You will need some kind of fuel management system because with more air now being introduced you will need to do some tweaking so you are not running lean. You will also need a vtec controller of some kind because that will need to be moved up the RPM range. If the vtec engages at the factory vtec point the engine will lose power because of the excessive air at the low rpm. I had to move mine up to 6800. You will also need something to move your redline up as well since the real power from these cams starts around 7500 rpm. To address all of these needs I went with Hondata but there are other options. As for HP power gain, Skunk 2 claims you can get 17-20 HP gain out of the stage 2 and I found this to be true when I went to the dyno. I went from 152 whp to 173 whp.

Again I have to say I have had zero problems with my idle. This is something I see people on the this board saying and I found it is simply not true. Skunk claims you may notice a little difference but nothing major. I held the factory GSR cams and the stage 2 cams side by side and there was very little difference on the low cam side. The high cam side was a different story. One more thing, I suggest you also get a JDM header if you don't already have one. The stage 2 will need to be able to move some air. Currently I do not a JDM on my car but I will have one on my car soon along with a carsound cat. I hope to get few more hp to the wheels.

Well that just my 2 cents.


[Modified by RedTeg95, 10:17 AM 6/25/2002]


[Modified by RedTeg95, 10:17 AM 6/25/2002]

 

Your car will work fine with these cams and it will idle like stock...trust me i have them....now who ever told you your going to gain 20hp is well, a liar cause in order for you to get maximum potential out of these cams your motor must be WELL built to rev higher and needs to breathe cause they are more for top end power like up to 9000rpm, unless you have some head work and a better intake manifold ie. Type R or Skunk2, header and exhaust 2.5" you wont gain 20hp....hope that helps.

GEN2TEG


[Modified by GEN2TEG, 3:20 PM 6/25/2002]

 

Do I have to get fuel regulator, or will I be fine stock?..Same with the Vtec controller. It's going to cost 1850 for all this, but I'm getting a new water pump and timing belt as well. How can I make sure that I'm not running to lean..And, to move the redline up, won't that do damage to the pistons, rods, and stock valves. I just want to make sure I'lll be good to go with Stage 2 cams, valves/retainters, and cam gears..Will I be ok?

 

Ok i was also looking into getting the Skunk2 stage 2 cams with complete kit value springs etc etc... im looking at 1400 after installed..then looking to get the Skunk2 cams gears to tune the cams better, another 200 dollar then new fuel pump regulator...now after getting all this how do u think the stock GSR exhaust will run? safe? or unsafe? do u think it will be fine or even hold me till i get the ITR?

 

I'll take a shot at answering both your questions...

--- Air/Fuel Regulation ---
As for a fuel regulator, yes you should pick one up along with a fuel pressure gauge and an air/fuel meter to put in the car. This way when you are at WOT you can make adjustments to the fuel mixture so you not running lean. Typically you would want to run on the rich side at WOT. You could get away with running the stock fuel regulator as long as you have something to control the fuel electronically. To do that you would need something like a VAFC, Hondata, etc. I started off with the VAFC. The VAFC unit is nice and you can control fuel curves for the low and high cam and you can also change the vtec crossover point. It is still better to have both the fuel regulator along with something like the VAFC to offer the most flexibility.

--- Moving the Redline ---
As long as you upgrade the valve train which is required if you go with the stage 2 cams, then you can move the redline up with no problem. The Skunk folks told me that if you use their valve train components, they can be revved up to 10400 rpm. As for the bottom end handling that, there are different opinions on how much a stock GSR block can take. All I can tell you is that currently I have my redline set at 9000 and I have not had issues. At one point I have it at 9500 but I did not want to push my luck. Eventually I will be getting an after market block, then I will push it but until then, I very happy with 9000.

--- Exhaust ---
Running the stock exhaust with the stage 2 cams should not be an issue but it will be a waste because you will not get the full power from the cams. Those cams need a nice open header (JDM) and cat-back system in order to show off their potential. As pointed out by someone in an early post, having the skunk2 intake mani does not hurt either. If your going to drop the money on the cams, you should also get the mani.

Hope that helps.

 

So RedTeg u are running the DC sport so its says in your quote correct? which one are u running? exhaust that is


[Modified by Acronym, 5:02 PM 6/25/2002]


[Modified by Acronym, 5:26 PM 6/25/2002]

 

Right now I am running the USDM DC 4-1 but sitting in my garge I have a JDM DC 4-1 and a carsound cat in route. Once I get the cat, I'll be installing all of it on my car.

*Edit*

Ops, just realized you said exhaust. I'm just using their standard cat-back system. Stainless steel, mandrel bent, etc. I think it is the only one they make for the teg right now.



[Modified by RedTeg95, 12:22 PM 6/25/2002]

 

Alright sounds good! ok let me share some future plans!

Alright in about a month i got KYB AGX and GC coilovers coming! blah blah

so then i wanna run some internal and since u already have cams etc. done u can help me with this plan to run a Cam setup: ok

Skunk2 Stage 2 cams: Value sprins retainers u can buy with (KIT)
Stainless steel DC sport Exhaust (which i have been eyeing down for a while now) either that or the ITR exhaust
Fuel Regulator : Gauges Air/Fuel, Fuel Pressure gauge...or run stock with a V-AFC...and as for moving the redline up i should just go with running a V-AFC correct? so i can adjust vtec such and such! Look like i got everything?

 

One thing I did not make clear is that the VAFC will not alow you to adjust the redline. You will need something else to do that. This is why I went with the Hondata with that you need a shop (or a friend in my case) that can progam a chip for you. With Hondata you can adjust fuel, timing, vtec point and the redline plus other goodies. If you don't go with that I'm not sure what other options you have. I have seen aftermarket ignition systems that allow you to do it but that's a waste of money if your not going to boost it. There may be other alternatives but I'm not sure.


[Modified by RedTeg95, 12:53 PM 6/25/2002]

 

If I went with a Hondata Stage 2 for a 96 GSR, do I have to change the stupid wiring harness for another 190? So $500 total for the Hondata? I thinking of going with the Stage 1 Skunk2 cams, so I don't need to mess with all that crap. Still going upgrade the valve train as well.

 

Yea, I totaly forgot, since you have a 96 you have ODB2 and for hondata to work you need ODB1 so you would need to get an ODB1 ECU and something to convert the harness. Sorry about that. The stage 1 should still give you some good power.


[Modified by RedTeg95, 9:20 PM 6/25/2002]

 

how high can you rev stage 1 cams and still make power? they not that aggressive, and they dont seem worth the monry to me. for the same price i can get stage 2. for 1600, you can get stage 2 cams, valve springs, retainers, intake manifold, cam gears, and a skunk 2 ecu (which has a higher redline and better fuel curve. then you can play with the vtec crossover and fuel dump.

btw, im not familiar with dynos. when you take your car there, do they tune it for you, or do you have to do it yourself. i dont think i know enough about air/fuel to tune my own car.

 

Skunk2 Cams are

Stage 1 produce good power and is CARB legal. Works perfectly fine with Stock Valvetrain. Stave 2 produce around 7wHP more than the Stage 1's. But with a higher redline, the Stage 2 will produce a bit more. Too bad Stage 2's aren't CARB legal, and thats VERY important for us Cali folks...

 

For you i wouldn't worry too much about it, you don't have to smog until 2004

Just get stage 2's, raise your compression, tune(with all the required stuff) that bitch and call it a day.

 

Raising the compression reliably requires new high compression pistons. This isn't cheap at all.

 

It pays to play, and if you wanna do it right, pay the price.

 

good quote my man

its all a game unless you own a business

 

Amen to that. Just to think this all started a few months ago for me with a simple exhaust upgrade because my stock one rusted out. That's all I was planning on doing. Now look what happend...