Ok, i am just getting this selling thing together after owning the car for approximately 9 years. It's hard, so here is what i've got going so far...

1997 Honda Civic CX hatch
180k on chassis
174whp/132 ftlbs
clean title

The reason i'm selling is because it's soon going to be my third string car, which means it'll get driven even less than it does now. That said, i'm also not in a rush to sell it since it's so far down on the depth chart, so hardcore lowballing will not be worth the effort.

Exterior-
original paint
15" Axis Maglites with new Falken Azenis 615's 205/50/15
matched handles and sideskirts
cheapo black housing headlights (still have originals)
Mugen copy hatch spoiler, circa 1999
'99 tail lights
new Brembo Slotted rotors
new Brembo sport pads

Interior-
GSR leather seats in so-so condition. Lumbar doesn't work in the d-side.
Pioneer CD player, about 2 years old with Pioneer 3 way door speakers
APEXI afc used as tach
AutoPower 4pt roll bar with harness bar circa 1999
Greddy 4pt harness
DC shift ****
silly Cyberdyne a/f gauge circa 1999
AIR CONDITIONING WORKS!!!
rear interior was removed by me in 1999

Drivetrain-
HMO JDM GSR b18c, blood is Mobil 1 5w30. installed May of this year. MINT!
I paid for (just parts) about 6k for the swap and all associated support items, including tune. It was done 100% correctly with choice parts and perfect tune as per those number coming from a basically stock GSR engine. price list is at the end of this post
new honda water pump
new honda timing belt
new NGK bkr7e-11 plugs
new NGK wires
Z10 breather tank setup w/ no PCV
motor mount inserts
new Ingalls "Stiffy" engine damper
LSD GSR trans, blood is honda MTF
new intermediate shaft assembly
B&M shifter
new Prothane shifter bushings
new Exedy chromoly flywheel and street clutch
new APEXI PowerFC standalone tuned by Jeff Evans
APEXI N1 cat-back (old style)
new APEXI GT manifold ITR header
APEXI voltage stabilizer
DC DAC w/ cold air extension
new Skunk2 Intake manifold
new AEM FPR
MSD 6al
MSD Blaster SS coil
BBK 62mm throttle body

Suspension-
Ground Control coilovers, 350lb front, 450lb rear
Tokico Illumina adjustable dampers
Suspension Techniques rear sway bar (26mm?) with Beaks reinforcement kit
Neuspeed lower tie bar circa 1999
DC front strut brace
DC rear strut brace
new 4 wheel alignment
new lower MOOG ball joints
new outer and inner MOOG tie rod ends
new SPC rear camber kit
new Ingalls front camber kit (a-arm with sliding ball joint)

pics show the car after a wash today. no detailing, no tricks.





















rust evidence-




paint/body is actually in pretty dang good shape for the mileage/age, especially if you consider my area (kind of close to the seashore). front bumper cover has clear chipped badly from road debris, rear bumper cover has scrapes on d-side. car has a few dings and chips here and there and a recent scratch on the rear 1/4 that is annoying. there are signs of rust behind the rear wheel/ rear wheel well lip under the paint, hasn't gotten 'bad' yet and has been static for i'd guess about 3 years. i'm sure in a few years it will progress. the wheels have a bunch of chips from road debris and the wheel nut socket and the center caps are weathered. the spoiler has a few stress cracks (light) and some pitting, but that's because the boneheads who i had paint it years ago didn't prep it. looks fine though.

interior is "ok". it's rather clean and presents pretty well. broken cup holder lid fastener, broken/dirty d-side armrest, steering wheel rim is beat from use and sun exposure, carpets are alright, they have a couple slight stains. ceiling is clean and interior is in general good shape. never ever smoked in or abused. i am missing the panel that covers the ECU. i removed it sometime in 1999 and have not been able to locate it at my parents house.

car drives perfectly EXCEPT it has an inner CV vibration that shows up under light to moderate acceleration. If the car is raised w/ the coilovers, it goes away and i have alot of info on this board about this issue. i really believe it's the axle angle coupled with axle quality, hence my feelings that Raxles will solve the issue. I am current embroiled in a beef with The Driveshaft Shop because they screwed me with some beat custom axles and have my axles and my money. in the mean time i am running Cardone axles, which are not remans and are in fact new, but i fear are not the greatest quality. I would recommend getting Raxles, but i refuse to get anything new until DSS gives me my money back.

car runs great, gets decent gas mileage as per Jeff Evans tune. starts up every time, idles well, etc

as mentioned in the list, rear interior was removed about 8 years ago and i am unsure if i still have any of it at my parents house. regardless, with the roll bar, noone can get in there anyway

I will not ship this car, and will meet within probably a 50-60 mile radius with the car at a central location.

*swap price list- PRICING FOR JUST THE SWAP I PERFORMED!
engine and trans, shipped 3720
crv compressor bracket 65
99-00 si d-side engine bracket 33
99-00 si rear t bracket 44
timing belt 48
water pump 90
Exedy chromoly FW 250
Exedy clutch 200
Skunk intake mani 200
Apexi GT manifold 330
NGK wires 50
Intake mani gasket 8
MSD cap and rotor 38
SMSP flare, donut and flange 25
NGK spark plugs 8
Honda coolant 8
AEM FPR 120
oil and filter 10
Apexi Power FC and tuning 600
new axles 215

total- it costs $6062 for JUST THE SWAP PARTS and tuning...

I'm selling this car for <FONT SIZE="3">$7000 FIRM</FONT>. I was going to ask 7.5k and go down to 7000, but i'll cut to the chase: For those who think it’s too high…people like you and me all day every day spend the 3720 shipped like I did for the engine and trans from HMO. It's well documented that they provide the best quality swaps available. But, that includes only the pristine engine, trans, axles, linkage and JDM harness w/ JDM ecu. Based on my price, that leaves you 3200 to find a relatively clean two-owner 6th gen with clean title, wheels, tires, suspension, installation parts for the swap, engine upgrades and fortification like the itemized list above, tuning, engine management, roll bar, etc, etc, etc, etc..

This car means alot to me, and while i know it's far from perfect, i do know that it's a value. I am being fair by cutting the haggling and if it doesn't move, it doesn't move. i only want someone to get it that knows what they are getting.

 

Looks well built

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fibercation &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks well built</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks. i feel it's put together pretty well. it's not a show car or anything, but it's my baby and a solid DD.

 

TONS of pics added!

 

pmed

 

price and add'l info added at the end of the first post.

 

up. 7k

 

up

 

sold.

9 years of blood, sweat and tears.

 

sick ek...props!

 

bump for a clean hatch

 

thanks guys, but...it's sold. see the last post by me? i sold it a month ago.