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Stalling at lights/after revving

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Old 05-06-2007, 12:50 PM
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Default Stalling at lights/after revving

<FONT COLOR="RED">If I ever figure out what the hell it is, I will post....please stop bumping the thread and asking until then</FONT>
Thanks....everytime i see this thread i get frustrated

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(Main post edited for simplicity/clarity)
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Engine = B18 LS (comlete setup below)
ECU = OBD1 P75 (Virgin)
Chassis = 97 EJ8 (EX) [d16y8]
Harness = Original EJ8

The engine just wants to stall out after giving it some gas when the rpm's fall quickly.
It only happens when its warmed to temperature and it doesnt matter if i just blip the throttle while sitting still or coming to a stop at a light.
It only does this in neutral, or when the clutch is pressed in and it comes down quickly - as in blipping the throttle or holding it at higher rpm and just hopping off.
If I tap the throttle once, lightly, quickly, while it falls, the engine recovers fine and will idle normally.
It does NOT stall, if I leave it in gear, while slowing down to a stop and finally press the clutch when at approx. idle rpm (<u>&lt;</U>1000rpm). However, pressing the clutch anywhere above that, causes the stall.

Always starts right back up - either with the key or jump starting while rolling ('popping the clutch')
It idles just fine, around 750 (if maybe slightly lower)
No codes (3 different p75's)

Yes, idle speed changes if I turn on the lights, blower, etc, or press the brake multiple times, however, none of these things cause it to stall. In fact, it adjust the idle perfectly - "textbook adjustment"

The last engine (D16y8) ran fine.
I am using its injectors (240cc), the same fuel pump (stock), and many of the same sensors...
--- The only sensor thats not from the y8 = oil pressure switch, iat, knock and ckf (since there isnt either of those two on the b18), and those sensors that are specific for the engine/part (as in the dizzy, map, tps)

I have no problems revving, so dont say "map and tps are switched"
Aside from the stalling, it seems to run normally


HERE'S THE UPDATED LIST OF WHAT IT ISN'T/ATTEMPED FIXES:::
TPS is within spec in voltage and resistance (1&2, 2&3)
Vacuum is ~20inHg
Compression in each cylinder is between 150-155 (wiseco flat's)
Timing is set correctly
Adjusted valves: .006 Intake .008 Exhaust
Its not a vacuum leak
New plugs, new cap and rotor
NGK plug wires (also tried parts store)
Not the distributor (changed it, went back to original)
Fuel filter is maybe 1yr old
I was using the same good, clean IACV and gsr TB on my d16 without any issues
Replaced the IACV for the hell of it anyways...not the problem
Blocked the IAVC inlet ports - no change
Fuel Pressure = Idle: 40-ish, Open throttle: 50-55
No change from using different FPR's
Theres no pcv - endyn breather/catch can
Was leaking h2o into runner 4....sealed that w/ RTV...still stalls
Its not the brake booster check valve
Clean air filter, but also does it with no intake arm/bare TB
Swapped both ECT sensors, as according to a TSB (causes rich condition)
Brand new throttle body gasket -&gt; Nope

<FONT COLOR="red">It seems to run just fine (aside from vtec codes) with a P2P ecu</FONT>
Bought an obd2a p75...will try that eventually


Im just about out of ideas.....

This is the COMPLETE setup:
Originally Posted by pdiggitydogg
B18A block - fresh hone, decked, and 0.004" over for forged internals (capped breather)
Golden Eagle Block Guard
Complete oil pan, windage and pickup
New OEM OBD2 Oil pump ("vtec")
New OEM ITR Water pump[/b]
New OEM Thermostat
B18B crank
USDM ITR Crank pulley (chipped and repaired)
ACL std bearings
Scat connecting rods (exactly the same as Eagle) w/ ARP bolts
Wiseco flat top pistons w/ rings (solid 150 compression across all 4 cylinders)
ARP Head Studs
Stock fuel rail
P75 LS head - Fresh resurface, and cleaning
'96+ valve cover
New OEM valve seals (intake and exhaust)
Golden Eagle cam cap (black)
Supertech Black Nitride valves
New Headgasket
Crower dual valve springs and Ti retainers
Crower 402-T turbo camshafts[/b]
Blox intake manifold (power coated grey)
Hondata IM gasket
Extended IM studs w/ wider, flanged 13mm nuts
GSR Throttle body w/ standard horizontal throttle pulley
LS OEM Exhaust manifold
New OEM EM gasket
New Power Enterprise Timing Belt
New T.Belt tension pulley
Upper and lower T.Belt covers (lower is neatly trimmed to fit obd2 oil pump)
OBD1 P75 ecu (Virgin)
OBD2A Distributor with New Cap and Rotor
New NGK Blue plug wires
Platinum NGK spark plugs
OEM ITR Flyhweel
Endyn Breather/Catch Can
OBD2a y8 harness
EJ8 Chassis

Modified by pdiggitydogg at 2:17 PM 9/12/2007
Old 05-06-2007, 03:21 PM
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sigh
Old 05-06-2007, 03:26 PM
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how's the timing ?
Old 05-06-2007, 03:31 PM
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belt's find
ignition is set at "center" because i dont have a gun - but its not bad enough to cause it to do what its doing
Old 05-06-2007, 03:36 PM
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Can you replicate it at idle by manually pushing the throttle with the hood open?
Old 05-06-2007, 03:45 PM
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you mean replicate the stall by manually opening the throttle?
sure, thats actually how i first found it
Old 05-06-2007, 03:47 PM
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Default Re: (pdiggitydogg)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you mean replicate the stall by manually opening the throttle?
sure, thats actually how i first found it</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's ******* wierd .... because like you said, you'd have to have one HELL of a vac leak for that to be the issue, and if you're not throwing codes then it's not the map / tps.

The only thing I could think of is that maybe a valve is sticking, but that seems HIGHLY unlikely.
Old 05-06-2007, 03:53 PM
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I thought that too...so I smartly ran it for a few seconds with the cover off (spraying oil everywhere, you know) but none of the valves stuck at all.
Old 05-06-2007, 04:01 PM
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Default Re: (pdiggitydogg)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I thought that too...so I smartly ran it for a few seconds with the cover off (spraying oil everywhere, you know) but none of the valves stuck at all.</TD></TR></TABLE>

There's only one explanation .... the Zombie Jesus hates your motor
Old 05-06-2007, 04:11 PM
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damn him....stupid zombie jesus and his shenanigans... really getting tired of that guy
Old 05-06-2007, 04:43 PM
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i know this has to have happened to someone else before...[black magic]
Old 05-06-2007, 05:01 PM
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Make sure that you don't have the TPS and MAP sensor connection switched around.
Old 05-06-2007, 05:06 PM
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Default Re: (onesikdb8)

OP-<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">(i have no problems revving, so dont say "map and tps are switched")</TD></TR></TABLE>
YOU-<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onesikdb8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make sure that you don't have the TPS and MAP sensor connection switched around.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Old 05-06-2007, 05:07 PM
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Derek Zoolander School for kids who cant read good:

Old 05-06-2007, 05:10 PM
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Default Re: (pdiggitydogg)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Derek Zoolander School for kids who cant read good:

</TD></TR></TABLE>
Old 05-06-2007, 05:17 PM
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Default Re: (ke98248)

my 00 si does the same exact thing. After it's warmed up and the idle drops down to about 700-800. Even if I barely even blip the throttle it will drop down to about 500rpms. It's not so bad that it stalls, but it makes the sound that its about to stall. You know the shaking sound.

Im going to try cleaning my IACV.. If that doesnt work I guess WE are out of things to do..
Old 05-06-2007, 05:18 PM
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lmao
Old 05-06-2007, 05:23 PM
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Default Re: (phondataz)

^ Why? Whats so funny
Old 05-06-2007, 05:27 PM
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Default Re: (kaluwa3)

not you bro..look up a few posts haha
Old 05-06-2007, 06:19 PM
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Default Re: Stalling at lights/after revving (pdiggitydogg)

I have a similar problem but it's very intermittent (and very annoying)
Old 05-07-2007, 05:32 AM
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ttttttttt
Old 05-07-2007, 05:35 AM
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Default Re: Stalling at lights/after revving (pdiggitydogg)

time for a new fuel pump
Old 05-07-2007, 05:39 AM
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only thing that comes to mind is that it could be bad or tainted gas? You have any people who have any grudges against you, that may have slipped urine or sugar, or any other additive to your gastank without you knowing.

I smell sabatoge!
Old 05-07-2007, 06:11 AM
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-OR-

Try changing the ECU, maybe your current one is faulty? Defective? Just a thought. Change it out, see what happens.
Old 05-07-2007, 06:15 AM
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Default Re: Stalling at lights/after revving (Yikez itz Jayr)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Yikez itz Jayr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">time for a new fuel pump </TD></TR></TABLE>
Id bet $1000 on No...
The car ran 100% fine with the y8 in it.

It runs fine, idles fine, just stalls, so it cant be bad gas (even if someone did manage to open the door without damaging it at all...I dont talk to anyone, so I doubt I have enemies )

Ecu is virgin, but that is the last thing on the list...
Anyone have an obd1 P75 that I can borrow??


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