So, I have to bring my girl's car to work today and OF COURSE the window has to sell me out and not roll back up after I had been smoking in there. (Which I just got in trouble for ) And living in suck-*** Washington state, we are subject to sudden and sporadic rain showers every five minutes, so yes, it rained all inside the damn thing, which she also thanked me for...

Here's the thing: The driver's side window will roll down, but not up. So, I am thinking that the switch has gone out, because why would the motor still roll down if it was the culprit and had burnt out?

My question is: Is there a manual crank screw or something on the regulator motor that I can use to get this thing rolled back up? I've tried like hell to pull it back up out of the door and it's like I'm fighting the HULK or something.

In the words of someone, I forget... "More parts, more problems" Whatever happened to those good ol' manual crank windows?

 

I don't know of any 'easy' way to get the power window rolled back up, I'd say buy a new control unit would be the easiest way to fix the problem. After all, if you could just pull the window up, then you could also pull it down (thieves)

 

Yea, well the only reason I tried that is because my 350Z window reg. motor went out on me and I could actually raise it back up by hand, which now that I think about it is kinda... strange.

A friend of mine had his motor go out on his sunroof and when he removed the headliner, there was a large allen screw that he would crank to get it to close.. That's why I was thinking that the window motors may have that as well?

 

switch could be bad or bad solder joints in the window control unit, in any event you'll have to get the drivers door panel off.
With the door panel off you can use jumper wires to reverse the window motor connections and the 'down' will then be 'up' to keep the rain out.
you can test the switch output with an ohm meter, and the control unit mounted in the door can be opened up and checked for cracked solder joints.

 

EDIT: Sorry, this was supposed to be a reply in this thread > https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1965022
I need some help deciphering this wacky schematic or just another diagram of the master window connector piece itself (which would probably be easier anyways). I went to the Honda Dealer to get a printout of the wiring diagram, but I really can't tell from it which wires to jump. From what I am reading from this diagram, I would have to jump the GRN/WHT (7) coming from the fuse box to either RED/YEL (8), RED/BLU (10), or RED (11) on the Master Power Window Switch. Is this safe?