ok, so before it was idling at around 2500 when cold and would settle around 1000 once warmed up.

I adjusted the screw a little, and cleaned the valve on the back of the IM(IACV right?) with carb cleaner, I got it to idle around 2100 when cold and 800 when warmed up & was happy that it was back into oem spec.

started it up this morning (about 2-3 weeks after cleaning it ) and it idles at 3000 when started then it starts to "bounce" between 1000-2500....after awhile it settles down to somewhere between 1000-1500 WTF?!?!?!

Is the valve on the bottom of he TB the one that needs to be cleaned?, like I said, I already cleaned the one on the back of the IM. should I just fully remove the TB and clean it all? Replace the vaccum lines? I've got no clue what's going on right now.

 

take the cap off the lower valve, its the FITV

inside there is a round yellow thing. its a thermowax plunger.

take a flat head and CAREFULLY screw that down tight. put the cap back on and test

 

http://www.ef-honda.com/ben/Badidle.php

good link for idle problems

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92ehatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take the cap off the lower valve, its the FITV

inside there is a round yellow thing. its a thermowax plunger.

take a flat head and CAREFULLY screw that down tight. put the cap back on and test</TD></TR></TABLE>

the one on the bottom of the TB?

 

BUMP.

 

yes

 

cool I'll check it out later tonight...after the game of course

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92ehatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take the cap off the lower valve, its the FITV

inside there is a round yellow thing. its a thermowax plunger.

take a flat head and CAREFULLY screw that down tight. put the cap back on and test</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2 same thing happen to me and that fixed the problem just dosent idle as high when its cold but who cares

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92ehatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take the cap off the lower valve, its the FITV

inside there is a round yellow thing. its a thermowax plunger.

take a flat head and CAREFULLY screw that down tight. put the cap back on and test</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well I did this and holy ****! it worked!!!!

I can't believe it'd be something SOOOO simple. it now idles @ 1400 rpm on a cold start, no bouncing of any kind, in neutral after a little driving it settles @ a perfect 850 and in general seems to run A LOT nicer. thanks for all the help!

hopefully this will also help me get some better fuel economy too(compared to idiling in the 2-3K range for the first 10 min and then bouncing constantly between 1 & 2K, I'd imagine it would)

For anyone who attempts this here's some advice:
-Be very gentle with the thermo-screw(it'll only go down about 1/4-1/2")
-just replace the 3 gaskets, they're only like 5 bucks and could be part of the problem, if they are old and cracked like mine were

Good luck, fairly simple, just a PITA to get to the middle bolt (closest to the IM) if everything is still in the car....took me a little less than 1hr. start to finish

 

glad you got it fixed. for future reference.

crazy idle at cold start, usually FITV, any other crazy idle. can be alot of things, fitv, iacv, vacuum leak, tps out of calibration, failing map sensor, the list goes on

and yes you do have to be very carefull with that yellow wax plunger, its just like a candle, breaks and bends easily