Ok guys, I know you all will say "search." Well I did that and I found a little about what I needed. But I what I did not find was what exactly is required when swapping a OBD2 H22 into a OBD2 Civic such as my EK? Do I switch anyparts? Is it direct plug and play? Like once bolted in is it just a matter of extending a few wires and pluging them in? I am lost....

I want to keep it OBD2 for now then down the road do the conversion to OBD1, but for right now I just need to get it running. I have everything needed to do the swap, or so I think and it begins this weekend. So anyhelp is appreciated.

Thanks,
Jay

 

bump cause i'm interested in the same thing. i'm sure wiring the h22 to be obd2 will be much more emissions friendly as well.

 

Bump!

 

bump any info is appreciated.....

 

bumper cars!

 

everything that will be true for doing this in an EG will hold true with the EK.
Use the original wiring harness from the car, extend wires, use the prelude injectors (can't remember if the obd2 ones have a resisitor box, but you'd have to wire that in if needed), use the rear T bracket from the H22, aftermarket mount kit, and then you'll have to extend the exhaust....

 

Keeping it OBD2 will actually be more difficult than switching to OBD1...

The reason is that the P5M H22 OBD2 ECU won't run the car without the proper signals from the Immobilizer system... Switching to OBD1 and running a p13 ecu or Neptune RTP and a p72/28/30 means that you don't have to deal with that crap.

 

Unless you happen to stumble across one of the rare and highly sought after 1996 obd2 p13. 96 was the only year a obd2 p13 ecu was made and it didnt have an immobilizer in it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr. ***** &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Unless you happen to stumble across one of the rare and highly sought after 1996 obd2 p13. 96 was the only year a obd2 p13 ecu was made and it didnt have an immobilizer in it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so true. after 6 months of looking i finally found one, lol 90$. Score.

if you have the ignition, key, ecu from the same lude, that will work aswell.

 

oh cool you found one man, you got it for cheap i paid 200 for mine lol.

 

200 is still worth it, if you can find one.

 

unless yours is an EX you'll have to at least wire:

-2 wire IACV from your current 3 wire
-knock sensor
-VTEC solenoid
-VTEC pressure switch
-extend the 4 wire O2