I have an LS obviously... I am debating going LS VTEC, buying GSR stuff (like the head) or just buying a whole GSR motor. What are your thoughts, what's worth the time and money? I am not talking turbo kit right now, just an engine. Any ideas and explanations on this are welcome!! Thanks

 

with a properly buillt up lsvtec and tuning, you should be able to hit good numbers(track and dyno). I say stay with your motor and start converting it into an N/A beast. with the money you spend on a full gsr swap, you can do alot to your motor.

 

Alright well to make my car have vtec.... what ALL do I need?? I have some info off sites and everything, and its suppossed to be about a grand cheaper to do this then do a GSR swap.

 

head, cams, gears, valvetrain, throttle body, manifold.. there's a few cables too and i know there's more...

 

do a gsr swap and sell your ls motor and make money back. unless you plan on tearing your **** apart to build it from the bottom up, dont waste your time, you will just ruin that motor.

 

you gotta do the LS/VTEC setup right to actually get some good HPs out of it. just get the GSR swap and work with it.

 

If I did the LS VTEC... does this seem like a logical idea?

b16a head - $350ish used
head bolts (10) - $60 new
intake manifold - $250 new
cams - $250ish a piece new
ecu - $300
head gaskets - $50 new
fuel rail - $50 used
wires - $70 new
spark plugs - $10
valve cover - $180 new, $50 used
cam seals - $15
steal braided oil line - $20-50
fittings - $10

I found that online, what do ya guys think? I would prefer the GSR cause its easier to do 1 thing instead of like 15!


[Modified by BranzLS, 11:06 PM 4/25/2002]

 

looks like youre on the right track. you might also need to pay to have someone do it right. usually a simple lsvtec setup without building it right wont get you the output you want. does the b16s head come with the vtec solenoid?

 

Your forgetting the main thing to replace on a VTEC conversion. GSR OIL PUMP! brand new!
The fitting will probably cost more.. Each one is like $5 or so
headbolts, use ARP $160
You also need to tap the head.

if you swap over the GSR, you'll still have to do like 15 things. You have to do some wiring as much as the LS conversion.
If your goign all motor and your using a stock LS block.. I would just wait until you have the cash to get a high compression LS block.
The stock LS block with the B16 head is not all that for all motor.

Wil

 

There are two main things to put a VTEc head on a LS:
1) drill new bolt holes
2) Tap the oil supply
check out this web sight http://www.diyracing.com/
I am planning on eventualy going to an LS/VTEC, there is a lot of work involved, so if your are going to do it do it right. I would recomend using the C1 head or the C5 head if you could find it. You would be able to get a lot more out of it. Also another major things would be pistons N/A high compession, FI low compressions.

 

Good stuff guys... keep posting what ya think cause I seriously wanna learn about how this works and what is best. I would prefer to go ALL MOTOR as you guys can tell.

 

A B16A head is essentially the same thing as P73 (type-r) except that it does not have a mild PnP job like the R head does. If the prices are about the same for both then obviously go for the P73, if the B16 head is much cheaper, just go with that and get R cams or whatever cams you want to use. A Gs-r head flows well when fully PnP but unless you plan on changing the intake manifold to something like the Skunk2 then i wouldn't bother since i'm not a real big fan of the stock
GS-R dual-stage intake manifold. If you do the Ls/VTEC, the most important thing is doing the bottom end right. Drill the holes for the oil, change the bearings, rods, kinfe-edge and balance the crank, and of course get higher compression pistons if you plan on staying NA. Plan ahead as well, since the motor is out, get a 8-9lb flywheel, and change the final drive while your at it, since the LS tranny which has a 4.266 final drive might hold you back a little, and change the clutch, timing belt, water pump, etc... little things like this will save you money in labour in the long run. If you do it right, I'm sure you can get some really good dyno #'s. Let us know how it goes.

 

All that money for 30hp and VTEC isn't worth it in my opinion, unless you're doing a hybrid. Start looking at some dynos of LS-Turbos and it may change your mind.

 

dont forget the tranny. if you actually go through with this, get atleast a gsr or b16 tranny.

 

the tranny! Like jackson said, b16/gsr tranny would be great due to the shorter gear ratios, you would like to stay in vtec after shifting..

Will-

 

If you have the money, then do it, if not.. just change to 4.785 or 4.929 FD and it shoud be good enough IMO.

 

I would be changing the tranny as well, and if I do go through with this I am gonna get everything and do it all right the first time. I have seen the dyno of a turbo ls, and yes its awesome... but an N/A motor would be more reliable in the long run and of course, I do want VTEC! I can get a whole b16 motor right now, about 40,000 or so miles on it very cheaply (no tranny) cause my friend in so cal i sgetting rid of it. Something like $600 for everything but tranny I believe. Anywayz, we'll see and thanks again

 

If you're doing any type of frank motor, you gotta make sure it's done RIGHT. Make sure you go to someone who knows exactly what they're doing. It's a relatively simple process and should be very reliable in the long run, but if done incorrectly you will ruin everything.

Don't bother going out of your way to get a B18C1 head. You're better off with the B16A (or if you come across one, a B18C5). The B16 is probably the best value out of the bunch.

An LSVTEC can get somewhat expensive (when upgrading pistons, rods, etc.) and will obviously require more labor than a straightup GS-R swap.

Do I think LSVTEC is worth it? Not as much as a CRVTEC.

Good luck with whatever you do...

 

EXACTLY

 

although he already has the LS block...

 

he does.....
LS/VTEC, using the b18b block and b18c head will give you more power than a b18c1. now if you do more things like cams, pistonts, and so on, you can yeild some pretty good numbers.
sorry 56K people



[Modified by integra-modder, 8:50 AM 4/27/2002]

 

Sweet article, thanks! Like I said, I can get the b16a stuff pretty cheaply and it seems like the way to go. I would love a b18c5 head tho. I'll let ya guys know what I do.

 

I'm putting together stuff slowly for my ls/vtec. What year is the b16 you're getting? If it's an older 1st gen siR from an 89-91 jdm car, than you'll probably want to replace valve springs and vtec solenoid. Also, you might want to upgrade to a skunk2 or type r intake manifold and get a spoon throttle body that has the MAP sensor on it, since the older TB doesnt have one. http://www.inlinefour.com sells brand new jdm type r intake manifolds with fuel rail, fpr, and injectors for $320. The spoon throttle body is $500, it may seem like alot, but it comes with brand new tps and map sensors, which cost $250 a piece from the dealer. Also, make sure you're using a proper ecu for your application. Someone already mentioned the arp studs, and gsr oil pump. It's a good idea to get headwork done before you do the conversion since there will be no down time, and since the head should be disassembled in order to replace parts. P&P, mutli angle valve job, and light resurfacing should be in the $800-$1100 range. The way I'm doing my swap is that I'll be adding rods and pistons first, tranny second. These two things can be done as fast as the machine shop is done with the block. This way, I'll have a high compression ls motor with a close ratio tranny. Then, when I get the head stuff together, I can get that done way faster than doing it all at once. I've seen ls/vtecs with all factory honda parts (b16 pisons, civic r intake cam, b16 head, type r intake mani putting down hp #'s in the 160's) Not bad if you ask me. . . Best of luck with your conversion.

 

lsvtec

 

743Teg... thanks MUCH. I gotta buy this stuff part by part until I have it all. I forget the b16a year, I'll check again but its most likely how i'll do it with a Skunk2 intake manifold.