I have heard a lot of stuff about the LS/Vtec like it is a lot stronger than the GSR and you can push more horsepower. It will be going into a CRX but since the engine is coming out of a Integra I figured to post in here. Give me some of your thoughts on the LS/Vtec and GSR.

 

if u have the money for the whole swap a gsr motor will probably be yur best bet. Ls/Vtec can be god if you spend the money to build it right but my choice would always be the gsr, more realiable.

 

Maybe I'm not completely informed here, but vtec is vtec, its all in the build. lsvtec should have higher compression with all stock parts, meaning ls block, gsr head, internals to each left alone, but pistons are replaceable, and there are other ways to change compression. If given the choice, and they cost the same, I'd go gsr, its already a vtec and you know it works that way. Besides, an lsvtec isn't meant to rev like a gsr motor without building the internals, and by the time you've done that, is it still cheaper?

 

you should do whatever you can afford, you will be satisfied with both, I mean the GSR will be more reliable because it has v-tec stock, no modifications and also like he said the LS is not ment to rev like the GSR. Than again if you wanna go boost and are planning to only go stock boost for a while go LS it has lower compresion and it is also cheaper to replace of course. The tranny is a lot better on the GSR but you should know that. Ive owned both and they were both satisfying but do whatever you have the money to do.

 

B18C1 is more reliable. Not to mention it comes with a better transmission. If you buy a complete B18b swap the tranny is useless. Even if you have a turbo the gsr tranny is the best way to go.

 

why do you all say the LS tranny is useless? i know many ppl that run LS tranny's on their gsr-turbo setups...it works awesome and the gearing is perfect.

on topic: i'd say go LS/vtec if you can afford it...that is if you wanna go all motor...now if you wanna go boost go gsr and that would be much more reliable for boost IMO.

 

i say you just do the gsr because it is more reliable den ls/vtec, and if that ls/vtec isnt done to the t then your gon to have major problems, but its not about what i think its all about you but dats just what i would do.

 

Definatly DONT do the LS/VTEC, save up the extra money and just get the full B18C1 swap. Buy a motor that has VTEC and everything that makes it work perfect. I know some people like the whole LS/VTEC stuff, but i think its a not worth it, reliability issues and what not. dont do it....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4DooRGiSzer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Definatly DONT do the LS/VTEC, save up the extra money and just get the full B18C1 swap. Buy a motor that has VTEC and everything that makes it work perfect. I know some people like the whole LS/VTEC stuff, but i think its a not worth it, reliability issues and what not. dont do it....</TD></TR></TABLE>


dude u have no clue what ur talking about..

ls/vtec wil be reliable if you build it right..

here is my weaksauce ls/vtec, b16 cams, stock header, and hella fucked up tune. Itr has i/h/e

http://www.streetneeds.com/upl...i.AVI

http://www.streetneeds.com/upl...n.AVI

a built ls/vtec will walk over a gsr anyway

 

i think that we can sit here and argue all day about which is better but I think both are great and it is just a matter of preference. LS/VTEC is nice if you dont have enough money to buy the GSR, but either way you will be satisfied

 

All I'm going to say is this. LS/vtec still has an LS crank and rods. DON'T rev it like it's a GSR or B16, because it's not... keep the factory LS redline (6800 rpms), use correct dowel pins, a good headgasket, good bearings, a good oil pump and you shouldn't have any problems.

To do a reliable LS/vtec, you dont have to do a complete build, you just have to put the money where it counts, and treat/tune it like the motor that it is.
-Mike

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DA Teg D00D &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why do you all say the LS tranny is useless? i know many ppl that run LS tranny's on their gsr-turbo setups...it works awesome and the gearing is perfect.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I guess we will have to agree to disagree. I have personally switched between both trannies in a car with a bolt on kit. (not my car, but I drove it for a month). GSR tranny was better IMO.

 

how bout a b18c1 gsr block and head with a LS 89mm crank...u basically get a ls stroked gsr with girdle, internal vtec lines...blah blah blah...whats more reliable than that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DA Teg D00D &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why do you all say the LS tranny is useless? i know many ppl that run LS tranny's on their gsr-turbo setups...it works awesome and the gearing is perfect.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allmotorGs-r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i say you just do the gsr because it is more reliable den ls/vtec, and if that ls/vtec isnt done to the t then your gon to have major problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4DooRGiSzer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Definatly DONT do the LS/VTEC, save up the extra money and just get the full B18C1 swap. Buy a motor that has VTEC and everything that makes it work perfect. I know some people like the whole LS/VTEC stuff, but i think its a not worth it, reliability issues and what not. dont do it....</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AngelTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All I'm going to say is this. LS/vtec still has an LS crank and rods. DON'T rev it like it's a GSR or B16, because it's not... keep the factory LS redline (6800 rpms), use correct dowel pins, a good headgasket, good bearings, a good oil pump and you shouldn't have any problems.

To do a reliable LS/vtec, you dont have to do a complete build, you just have to put the money where it counts, and treat/tune it like the motor that it is.
-Mike</TD></TR></TABLE>
OMG, n00bs, n00bs, n00bs!!!
they're both great motors. just do whatever you can afford, with the better dollar:fun ratio. either way, in a crx, it'll be fast.
click me! i'm your new best friend!

 

i would say GSR motor

 

OMG...this whole ******* debate again. I researched this fully when I was planning on getting a B20/VTEC for the EH3, and I ended up choosing the FULLY BUILT B20/VTEC (but then I got scammed on it).

Here's the deal. On paper, a hybrid motor like the B20 or LS/VTEC will "walk" a B18C. The low end torque of these motors combined with the "power of VTEC" makes for a pretty interesting motor. The reality of it is, you have to fully build your motor in order to have it be as reliable as a stock VTEC motor.

I apologize if I get a little vague here, because it's been a couple years since I have done this research. But, the main issues behind these motors is that they retain the stock r/s ratio of the B20 or B18A-B. These motors have a shorter rod and a longer stroke than the B18C. Which gives them the higher displacement and better torque. The only problem is they have a lower redline. And the further you try to take those motors past the point where they normally make power, the more pressure you put on the cylinder walls.

That is where you start running into problems. First off you would have to get a VTEC controller to change the point when VTEC kicks in. Because if you try to keep driving a hybrid motor in the rev range a stock VTEC motor works in, then you are liable to warp the cylinders or cylinder walls, and/or break a rod. It may not happen for 20,000 miles...but trust me, it will happen.

So, if you want to run a motor like that then you have to spend the money beefing up the internals. By the time you are done spending the money for beefed internals, doing the VTEC conversion, and minor tuning (a necessity) the guys that just swapped a B18C1 are zipping by you.

I know I'm simplifying ****, and I apologize if my data is a little off. So, please call me out if I missed something, or if I'm TOTALLY off. But, it breaks down to this. If you have the resources/money/knowledge to dedicate yourself to your Honda motor, then by all means go for an LSVTEC...it can be a beast, but it will be more expensive. However, if you want something that will run fast and reliably (and will be cheaper down the road) then just get a stock VTEC motor.

Remember, if it was a great idea, then Honda would have built a motor like the LSVTEC already.

 

i take my ls/vtec to 9200

polished and balanced ls crank, ls shotpeened rods, arp rod bolts, and arp head studs.

if ur gonna keep stock redline at 6800 with ls/vtec dont bother doing all the work cuz ur not gonna be pleased with results. vtec engagement for me is 6200 so staying with 6800 with be pointless

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Milano_EH3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> But, the main issues behind these motors is that they retain the stock r/s ratio of the B20 or B18A-B.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no, that is not the problem. there's practically nothing wrong with the ls rod/stroke ratio. the rod/stroke on an ls is only slightly worse than a gsr. IT'S NO BIG DEAL. the problem is the ROD BOLTS, which is an easy fix.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSvtec03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
no, that is not the problem. there's practically nothing wrong with the ls rod/stroke ratio. the rod/stroke on an ls is only slightly worse than a gsr. IT'S NO BIG DEAL. the problem is the ROD BOLTS, which is an easy fix.</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly, the ls rod bolts stretch like bubble gum past the ls redline

 

Ls/Vtec 110%............... If you are worried about reliablity, don't build it. You should only do it if you know what you're doing. Yes, a ls/vtec could be unreliable, only if it wasn't built right. If built right, it is as good as any other engine. GSR are good motors too. But I will leave a lightly modified GSR any day with my Ls/Vtec. But the guestions is where are you going wit the engine, Nos, turbo or all-motor???

 

LS/Vtec

 

man do what you could afford, if whoever is building your motor is a person that knows what they are doing then dont worry too much. I just did a ls/vtec on my db8 and am running so nice and smooth , I ;m using a p28 with a hondatas200 software and everything is good, now if your bottom end is stock dont go crazy and rev up to like 8 or something but if your bottom end is built you would be walking most GS-R on the street. I like the idea of being in my 4 door and raping the crap out of a 2 door gs-r, is beautiful, but just make sure you built it right

 

the LS/VTEC's downside is you're still using the LS rods and crank. if you don't see that as a problem i could then say the LS B18A or B18B was designed with the intention of low RPMs so you can not rev them very high... where on a B18 they rev to 8,000 RPM the LS block was not intended to rev that high so when you do the rod bolts are prone to snap or the rods give out causing one big mess...

you may think i'm a newb to this all and i will admit i am, but i've been researching the LS/VTEC everyday since i got my teg over a week ago, i know a week isn't long but to look at a new source atleast or more a day you get alot of info on a subject... i kind of researched myself out of the LS/VTEC unless i do a bottom end rebuild with Eagle rods and ARP rod bolts

 

lsvtec

 

nothing wrong with the ls crank, either