<FONT SIZE="3">All Motor 2.0L Integra Type R Project; as it develops (Part 2)</FONT>

<FONT SIZE="3">Here is a link to Part 1, if you missed it. </FONT>

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1495320


<FONT SIZE="3">We'll start with the bottom end of the motor...</FONT>

The bottom end is complete, sitting on an engine stand. I took some photos of it from different angles. It looks awesome; visualize a brand-new B18C5 short block w/2.0L sleeves and Arias custom pistons w/ HPC thermal barrier and anti-friction coatings. The engine literally gleams!






I sourced and purchased 90% of the parts that went into this engine. That way I can save the engine builder allot of time, plus be certain I have obtained the best parts that are genuine. Dennis at LDL told me some horror stories about some of his customers showing up with counterfeit name brand parts; Honda; Eagle; and JUN, just to name a few! The boxes look completely genuine, and the parts resemble the genuine component, but under closer inspection are found to be knock-offs from India, China, Taiwan, etc. The latest phonies we've seen are fake Eagle rods made in India. I don't need to tell you what would happen if you put these in a race engine!

This is my old B18C5; two cylinders were using oil, not just the one that we had originally thought, so this motor build was timely indeed! The two cylinders on the left were using oil, notice the wetness on the piston domes.





<FONT SIZE="3">Now for the cylinder head...</FONT>

This is the process the head went through from beginning to completion:

The head was completely stripped and sent to be hot tanked and glass beaded. The head is closely inspected for cracks or other problems along with the valves. The head was fine, but the valve stems were border-line, so I replaced the valves with new Ferrea polished stainless steel racing valves.

Then begins the laborious “road racing” port/polish job on the head (a port job for a road race car is completely different than a port job for a drag car). The combustion chambers are opened up to match the 85mm bore, and the shrouds removed from the valve pockets. Once the ports are shaped and sized exactly the way he wants them, the head and valves go to a shop in Northern Cali that specializes in flow benching B-series heads for race engine builders. This company is not even open to the public.

Dennis tells them the exact flow numbers he wants from the head, and they dial it in with a flow bench; using their multi-angle valve job to fine-tune the flow characteristics so they don’t have to alter his port work! This is the end result:











This is the RPM Service 72-70mm tapered throttle body that will be going on the car. [/size]




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Here are the latest additions to the parts list:
- Koyo polished aluminum racing radiator
- Samco black silicone radiator hoses
- Spoon front tower bar (to match the rear)
- Ferrea polished stainless steel competition valves
- RPM Service 72-70mm throttle body
- Hondata S300 engine management (upgrade from S200)
- Timing belt
- Tensioner bearing
- Tensioner spring

Recap of the Engine Build Components:

Engine/Transaxle

New B18C5 short block (minus rods and pistons) sleeved to 2.0L (85mm x 87.2mm) by RS Machine
Entire rotating assembly balanced. (9,000+ rpm)
ARP engine stud kit; ARP head stud kit
Arias custom forged pistons; 12.5:1 (coated by HPC; piston tops and skirts)
Ferrea polished stainless steel competition valves
Crower rods
JUN III cams and valve springs
Toda Cam gears
Supertech Ti retainers
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
AEM FPR
B&M FP Gauge
RC 440cc injectors
RPM Service 72-70mm throttle body
DTR-FAB custom header
Mugen baffled oil pan
FAL racing fans
Koyo aluminum racing radiator
Samco silicone hoses
Mugen cooling system package
Toda high-power clutch/light-weight flywheel
JDM Honda 4.7 final drive
Extrude Hone/port matched intake manifold
Hondata S300; thermal barrier intake manifold gasket
Comptech Icebox intake
Vi-Tek racing ignition wires
Work done by LDL:
port/polish; open up combustion chamber to match 85mm bore; unshroud valve pockets; flow bench; 3 angle valve job; bronze guides; balance crankshaft and micro-polish journals; balance entire rotating assy.
LDL Custom 3” exhaust w/ 3” Thermal Research muffler
Energy Suspension motor mount inserts and shift linkage bushings.
Spoon Magnetic drain bolt set


<FONT SIZE="3">Part 3 is just around the corner... Dyno Tuning. </FONT>


Thanks for looking...





Modified by Tomcat at 5:17 PM 9/26/2006

 

looks good what kinda numbers are you hopeing for?

 

230whp minimum.

 

Looks great

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tomcat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">230whp minimum.</TD></TR></TABLE>

easy, that looks awesome, keep me updated when its running and you get some numbers good luck

 

can't wait to see it run

 

hey tom its me art with the hatch, the build looks awsome man, cant wait to see the result. When is the dyno? i dont want to miss it LDL

 

all out motor build

 

I can see this motorproducing about 230-240whp. You have have cut no corners with this build. Im very interested. I want some flowbench numbers for that head Looks great keep up the good build.

 

status

 

Very very nice

 

That there is a shiny little motor

 

LDL

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1Quikgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey tom its me art with the hatch, the build looks awsome man, cant wait to see the result. When is the dyno? i dont want to miss it LDL </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey Art, I'm glad you like the way the build is coming together. The dyno tuning might be a while; the engine assembly needs to be completed, then balance the entire rotating assembly and install the motor.

The only parts we don't have yet are the DTR-FAB exhaust and the new Hondata S300 unit. We will just do a street tune for the first 1,000 break-in miles. Then it will be dyno time...

 

cant wait for part 3 of this build. keep us updated

looking good

 

Very nice build Tom.
You guys should see Tom's car, that thing is MINT!!

Cant wait to see it in action.

 

how would you be able to tell iof you got the cheap knock off parts just wanna no so I wont get f**ked with that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Felix. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Very nice build Tom.
You guys should see Tom's car, that thing is MINT!!

Cant wait to see it in action. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey thanks Felix… I'm looking forward to seeing how much WHP we can squeeze out of it with a little tuning on the dyno.

 

very very nice build.. i hope your satisfied in the end i know i would... cant wait to see it in action also

 

damn...everything is soooooo beautiful. Big ups man

 

WOOT WOOT Beautiful job bro, 230+ would suprise me
if you fell short of that... definately keep us posted

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by existanzcivicb20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how would you be able to tell iof you got the cheap knock off parts just wanna no so I wont get f**ked with that</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually, the only defense against getting ripped-off from counterfeit parts is to know the look and feel of most parts, like my engine builder does. The best thing people like you and I can do, is to buy from an established, reputable source.