200whp allmotor GSR with stock intake mani.. possible?
ive heard about of people switching out the stock gsr mani for a aftermarket one because its so restrictive but i honestly dont see any cons about this manifold. it provide great torque and midrange over those single runners.. so im wondering can i build an N/A beast close to 200whp with the stock mani?
Im sure you can but most dont because an aftermarket one is under 200 bucks. For 200 dollars, a aftermarket will make a lot of extra hp when ur already putting down 200 whp.
Alot of people actually port out the manifold. Search on it if you want to keep the stock one. There was a thread about it not to long ago on either this integra section or AllMotor section.
Alot of people actually port out the manifold. Search on it if you want to keep the stock one. There was a thread about it not to long ago on either this integra section or AllMotor section.
ull make hp on top but what about the unavoidable midrange power that u need for rdaily driving? wouldnt the stock be better if you're aiming more for torque-midrange power
a after market mani should help you out from mid to high range, just downlow would suck....one of my friends ported out his dual stage mani..took a pretty damn long time..but he's maken pretty good power. don't know exact numbers..but im sure he's in the 170-185 range.
well i tried an aftermarket mani on a gsr and vtec raised at 5600rpm and the midrange lacks more power then the stock mani
what good is the stock manifold when racing? I know when im racing I keep it above 6k, where the stock IM is super restrictive, and the aftermarket is helping.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cjohnson_2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what good is the stock manifold when racing? I know when im racing I keep it above 6k, where the stock IM is super restrictive, and the aftermarket is helping. </TD></TR></TABLE>
ok i understand and as for daily driving.. which is better..
ok i understand and as for daily driving.. which is better..
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i think the biggest problems with gsr is the lack of low end power. an aftermarket IM will remove the dual butterfly system and it'll be better even flow of air coming in. it'll make for a lot easier tune.
boring out the stock IM will cost more than buying a new aftermarket IM. so why bore it?
i think stock gsr will reach 200hp, but you gotta build around it.
boring out the stock IM will cost more than buying a new aftermarket IM. so why bore it?
i think stock gsr will reach 200hp, but you gotta build around it.
If you are building a high rpm motor I would ditch the stock manifold...
... with that said I think the stock GS-R manifold would perform better for a daily driver, given the cams, and other engine components are sourced for this characteristic. A set of Buddy Club Spec 3 cams would probably work very well with the stock GS-R manifold, however most high rpm cams will probably need the after market manifold. Just my thoughts.
... with that said I think the stock GS-R manifold would perform better for a daily driver, given the cams, and other engine components are sourced for this characteristic. A set of Buddy Club Spec 3 cams would probably work very well with the stock GS-R manifold, however most high rpm cams will probably need the after market manifold. Just my thoughts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xX-GSR-Xx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol you guys dont know what your talking about</TD></TR></TABLE>
Could you elaborate on this a little bit more?
Could you elaborate on this a little bit more?
I still have the butterfly mani. on my semi-built motor. i am soon planning to swap that out with a s2 mani fold or blox. I dyno at 186whp with stage 2 cams and ctr piston on a gsr motor. Tuned by Modacar. I believe i can get alot more out of this car with a new manifold. To me Honda never had the tq to begin with so why save the little tq while you can get way more HP. Plus Honda motor loves to rev so drive the motor the way it likes to be driven...
..Its alot more fun pulling your motor all the way up 9500rpm then driving around 2000-3500rpm..hehe
..Its alot more fun pulling your motor all the way up 9500rpm then driving around 2000-3500rpm..hehe
how about those bc3+ cams along with the skun2k manifold. what do u guys think. it give good torque and mid and the sk2 can compliment up top. would this be a good set up?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSR KiNg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just with Bolt-ons its an easy 200hp</TD></TR></TABLE>
That has to be part of the reason why youre at 90%. Are you IntegraDude98's brother/dad/friend??
Dumbass.
That has to be part of the reason why youre at 90%. Are you IntegraDude98's brother/dad/friend??
Dumbass.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aznstyler119 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I still have the butterfly mani. on my semi-built motor. i am soon planning to swap that out with a s2 mani fold or blox. I dyno at 186whp with stage 2 cams and ctr piston on a gsr motor. Tuned by Modacar.</TD></TR></TABLE>
186whp on the dyno at Modacar is actually pretty good. Casey has said that his dyno reads lower than others in the area.
186whp on the dyno at Modacar is actually pretty good. Casey has said that his dyno reads lower than others in the area.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSR KiNg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just with Bolt-ons its an easy 200hp</TD></TR></TABLE>
200 wheel hp on a B18C1 is never easy without turbo, sc, nitrous, or itbs...
200 wheel hp on a B18C1 is never easy without turbo, sc, nitrous, or itbs...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboGS-R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
200 wheel hp on a B18C1 is never easy without turbo, sc, nitrous, or itbs... </TD></TR></TABLE>
x2
200 wheel hp on a B18C1 is never easy without turbo, sc, nitrous, or itbs... </TD></TR></TABLE>
x2
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboGS-R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
200 wheel hp on a B18C1 is never easy without turbo, sc, nitrous, or itbs... </TD></TR></TABLE>
You are right about the never easy part.
It can be done with good head work and some nice cams.
200 wheel hp on a B18C1 is never easy without turbo, sc, nitrous, or itbs... </TD></TR></TABLE>
You are right about the never easy part.
It can be done with good head work and some nice cams.
Quote, originally posted by xX-GSR-Xx »
lol you guys dont know what your talking about
Could you elaborate on this a little bit more?
" Just with Bolt-ons its an easy 200hp "
need i say more. i didnt mean all of you but for the few that post some stupid comments that dont know what there talking about. dont try and make it look like you know what your talking about. This does nothing to help the site grow nor help people that are searching for help/answers.
a B18c1 motor baselines at 148-154WHP thats with a healthy motor. you think that with just bolt-ons your at 200. i notice you said HP but it seems that were talking about WHP sence thats what matters. and sence i know someones gonna say it 175HP is to the flywheel. not to the WHEELS.
*oh and for the slow ones out there that are a little over there head. what it says on the box isnt what your getting. lol.
I see this alot for example: " oh my car is stock 175Hp nice. i add my 15HP intake my 8HP headers and oh **** man my 17HP exhaust wow thats 40HP now im at 215HP holy **** dude! " NO sorry to tell you it doesnt work like that.
*This is for the few that think they know and really dont so lets all not get offended. i know there people here that know where im coming from.
oh and please dont do what fellow tuners would call LEGO building. if you dont know what you truely want ( auto-X, Drag ) then dont just start adding **** on. just like you want your music to flow together you want all your parts in your motor to do the same. you want a nice curve on your dyno.
Oh, and torque does matter. how are you gonna have all that power and have nothing to put it down. wow you have 50 or 70 more HP than me but that why some of our Hondas do so well. some people know how to put the power down and do it right
^^^Edit^^^ maybe i didnt explain the torque part right----hp is calculated from torque.
Modified by xX-GSR-Xx at 9:40 AM 3/28/2006
lol you guys dont know what your talking about
Could you elaborate on this a little bit more?
" Just with Bolt-ons its an easy 200hp "
need i say more. i didnt mean all of you but for the few that post some stupid comments that dont know what there talking about. dont try and make it look like you know what your talking about. This does nothing to help the site grow nor help people that are searching for help/answers.
a B18c1 motor baselines at 148-154WHP thats with a healthy motor. you think that with just bolt-ons your at 200. i notice you said HP but it seems that were talking about WHP sence thats what matters. and sence i know someones gonna say it 175HP is to the flywheel. not to the WHEELS.
*oh and for the slow ones out there that are a little over there head. what it says on the box isnt what your getting. lol.
I see this alot for example: " oh my car is stock 175Hp nice. i add my 15HP intake my 8HP headers and oh **** man my 17HP exhaust wow thats 40HP now im at 215HP holy **** dude! " NO sorry to tell you it doesnt work like that.
*This is for the few that think they know and really dont so lets all not get offended. i know there people here that know where im coming from.
oh and please dont do what fellow tuners would call LEGO building. if you dont know what you truely want ( auto-X, Drag ) then dont just start adding **** on. just like you want your music to flow together you want all your parts in your motor to do the same. you want a nice curve on your dyno.
Oh, and torque does matter. how are you gonna have all that power and have nothing to put it down. wow you have 50 or 70 more HP than me but that why some of our Hondas do so well. some people know how to put the power down and do it right
^^^Edit^^^ maybe i didnt explain the torque part right----hp is calculated from torque.
Modified by xX-GSR-Xx at 9:40 AM 3/28/2006
It maybe long but lets all get a little educated the right way:
Credit is do to Micheal Delany of Team-Integra.net
I've just some basic comments so everyone is on the same page at the start and we can go from there:
you have to know a little high school physics before you can discuss hp and torque.
you may want to review the concept of "work" in terms of physics ahead of time before you read any further.
Power (as in horsePOWER) is a form of work.
The "work" done by an engine's crankshaft to move the car can be measured in units of killowatts, ps, or hp.
when people say hp vs. tq , this does not make any sense.
why?
hp is calculated FROM torque. They are NOT separate entities. the hp number is a calculation derived from torque.
It's like saying displacement vs. stroke. That would not make sense. hp is derived from torque in that classic equation everyone knows :
hp = [torque x rpm ] x [1 / 5252] .
What about the equation or definition of work?:
WORK = Force x distance
the [1/ 5252] in the hp equation is just a constant or conversion factor to multiply to get the correct unit of measurement. We can take this constant out for now so we can see something a little clearer:
hp = [torque x rpm]
WORK = [force x distance]
So when you look at these 2 equations, again, you see the analogies or similarities between torque and force. hp and work is on one side of the equation (the result) . Torque and force on the other side (the things that determine the result) .
Torque is the tangential perpendicular force to an object that is travelling in a circle (in this case, it's the crankshaft which is the object travelling in a circle ).
Torque is the force component of work .
rpm is the rate component of work. rpm determines how often the force is applied at the flywheel to the clutch or how often the force is applied to the ground at the wheels .
Torque is what accelerates you forward.
RPM is what maintains that acceleration (once you get it going).
Let me say it again in case you missed it: TORQUE IS WHAT ACCELERATES YOU FORWARD.
Therefore, torque is something you want to pay attention to in performance discussions.
In most racing conditions, we want a FLAT torque curve. The level of torque should be AT THE PEAK TORQUE for the longest time possible. People say they want a wide POWERBAND. What do they mean by this? : You want the torque to be at the peak for the longest rpm range as possible.
powerband and tq = the same thing.
We tune on the dyno to get a flat torque curve as a goal.
Here's all motor, Honda 1/4 mile, world record holder, Erick Aguilar's earlier dyno when he did the 10.71 sec et. (he has since run 10.0 sec. flat in a non-alcohol 2L NA B18C1) :
So the bottomline is:
1. you cannot separate hp from torque. They are tied together. HP is calculated from torque. HP (Y axis) is the dependent variable. Torque is one independent variable (X axis). Those people who try to separate them, don't know the mathematical relationship between the 2.
2. The goal of tuning is a flat torque curve that sits near peak torque for as long as possible. The HP then just climbs in a nice straight line .
3. once you have a flat peak tq curve for as long as possible, the amount of hp then just depends on how high your rpms can go if you want it to get larger and larger.
Credit is do to Micheal Delany of Team-Integra.net
I've just some basic comments so everyone is on the same page at the start and we can go from there:
you have to know a little high school physics before you can discuss hp and torque.
you may want to review the concept of "work" in terms of physics ahead of time before you read any further.
Power (as in horsePOWER) is a form of work.
The "work" done by an engine's crankshaft to move the car can be measured in units of killowatts, ps, or hp.
when people say hp vs. tq , this does not make any sense.
why?
hp is calculated FROM torque. They are NOT separate entities. the hp number is a calculation derived from torque.
It's like saying displacement vs. stroke. That would not make sense. hp is derived from torque in that classic equation everyone knows :
hp = [torque x rpm ] x [1 / 5252] .
What about the equation or definition of work?:
WORK = Force x distance
the [1/ 5252] in the hp equation is just a constant or conversion factor to multiply to get the correct unit of measurement. We can take this constant out for now so we can see something a little clearer:
hp = [torque x rpm]
WORK = [force x distance]
So when you look at these 2 equations, again, you see the analogies or similarities between torque and force. hp and work is on one side of the equation (the result) . Torque and force on the other side (the things that determine the result) .
Torque is the tangential perpendicular force to an object that is travelling in a circle (in this case, it's the crankshaft which is the object travelling in a circle ).
Torque is the force component of work .
rpm is the rate component of work. rpm determines how often the force is applied at the flywheel to the clutch or how often the force is applied to the ground at the wheels .
Torque is what accelerates you forward.
RPM is what maintains that acceleration (once you get it going).
Let me say it again in case you missed it: TORQUE IS WHAT ACCELERATES YOU FORWARD.
Therefore, torque is something you want to pay attention to in performance discussions.
In most racing conditions, we want a FLAT torque curve. The level of torque should be AT THE PEAK TORQUE for the longest time possible. People say they want a wide POWERBAND. What do they mean by this? : You want the torque to be at the peak for the longest rpm range as possible.
powerband and tq = the same thing.
We tune on the dyno to get a flat torque curve as a goal.
Here's all motor, Honda 1/4 mile, world record holder, Erick Aguilar's earlier dyno when he did the 10.71 sec et. (he has since run 10.0 sec. flat in a non-alcohol 2L NA B18C1) :
So the bottomline is:
1. you cannot separate hp from torque. They are tied together. HP is calculated from torque. HP (Y axis) is the dependent variable. Torque is one independent variable (X axis). Those people who try to separate them, don't know the mathematical relationship between the 2.
2. The goal of tuning is a flat torque curve that sits near peak torque for as long as possible. The HP then just climbs in a nice straight line .
3. once you have a flat peak tq curve for as long as possible, the amount of hp then just depends on how high your rpms can go if you want it to get larger and larger.
Heres a couple threads to get anyone that wants more info on the subject:
http://www.team-integra.net/fo...19458
Oh sorry guys to stay on topic heres info on intake manifolds
http://www.team-integra.net/se...D=466
***Moderator please fix my links if they are not working Thank You.
Oh. to answer the main question of this thread.
*** Anythings possible it just the question how deep our your pockets and do you want to do it right? lets just say a intake manifold is just as important as the cams if your going for a large build***
Modified by xX-GSR-Xx at 9:53 PM 3/28/2006
http://www.team-integra.net/fo...19458
Oh sorry guys to stay on topic heres info on intake manifolds
http://www.team-integra.net/se...D=466
***Moderator please fix my links if they are not working Thank You.
Oh. to answer the main question of this thread.
*** Anythings possible it just the question how deep our your pockets and do you want to do it right? lets just say a intake manifold is just as important as the cams if your going for a large build***
Modified by xX-GSR-Xx at 9:53 PM 3/28/2006
Thank-you for all of the informative and well thought out information. You are right about mindless comments destroying this website, and HT needs more members like you to bring it back up. Although I already had a firm grasp on the topics discussed in your 2 long posts, others could find them useful.
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