I know I have helped plenty of people on this board now I am asking for help myself....

I have recently done a rear disk conversion on my 96 HB.. The trailing arms are off of a 99 si, the master cylinder is off a 99 si and so is the proportion valve... I bench bled my master cylinder and I believe I did it correctly but anything could have happened...

I was driving down the road (about on my 10th mile on the new brakes) and if felt like my brakes were applying themselves..well it got harder and harder to drive so I pull over and there is smoke coming from both my front brakes...I sit around for a minute and make sure the car doesnt catch fire and than ran to work becase I was super late...well later on that day I went to my car and bleed the brakes. Everything felt good and I was thinking it was just a bubble. I got home and drive around the neighborhood for a bit and everything seemed good. Now I wake up today and I go to drive around my nieghborhood some more and the pressure built up again locking up my front brakes (no locking up all the way but making the car feel like it was braking the whole time.

What is going on with my ride? I havent even touched the front brakes and this bull **** is happening

I blieve a couple things....I might be wrong..feel free to offer any advice...

*Import Auto Salvage sent me the wrong master cylider or proportion vavle.
*I did not bench bleed the master cylinder correctly
*Somehow I was sleep walking and welded my calipers to my rotors (I dont realy think this one that much though)

please please please help me

 

I know little about brakes, but it seems like fluid is getting in to the brake system and then now flowing out fully to release all the pressure.

 

so what are u thinkin..proportion vavle is fucked?

 

the prop valve should be connects so that the RF and the LR and the LF and RR are paired to eachother. if you are having a problem with both front brakes, maybe you did hook up the prop wrong. check that first. then after that **** who knows whats wrong. booster maybe bad. something weird happening with the vacuum assist. just throwing ideas out there.

 

I had the exact same problem. Did you change out the Brake booster. If you did check the pushrod on the Booster. Mine was about 1/4 inch too long and it cause the same thing. You could try and back the MC nuts out a bit and see if that relieves the pressure. If it does then your pushrod is too long and you need another Booster. HTH

 

dont realy see how I could hook the proportion vavle up wrong though?? PleaseI am in desperate neep of help

 

thak u very much for ur input...though i do notunderstand u completly...i sent u a im....what pushrod..the thing that goes to the peal? isnt that adjustable? this came out of an si........man my head hurts and I am so pissed

thank you everyone for helping....I would like more ideas as well though

 

Doubtful that it's the prop valve - it only chooses the bias from front to rear.

I'd bet that it's the master cylinder - we've had cars with front calipers locking up and the master cylinder was the culprit.

Also, pedal feel is greatly affected by the booster too. Check the lines going to the booster. If a line is crimped, blocked, or not on correctly, the pedal will be stiff as **** since the booster uses vacuum to power assist the brakes.

I still think the master cylinder would be the problem if your calipers are locking up. I don't know if it's the wrong one, or just perhaps a bad one that is still the "correct" one for the swap.

Call IAS - I'm sure they'll help you out bro.

Hope I shed a little light on your problem - try that master cylinder and double check the lines to the booster.

 

lines are good...what is IAS's phone number , who are they anywyas?

 

http://www.importautosalvage.com Ask for Larry Jr.

I have the brakes swapped on my EK as well and may be able to help.

Get the stamp off the MC and the Porp valve and I'll compare yours to mine.

MC Stamp is on the driver side of the bore under the resivor. Like a 15/16" or 1" in a circle.

The stamps on the porp valve are harder to read when it's in the car but I wrote mine down before the swap.

Post up that info and IM me so I can check it out.......

I agree that the lines are probably fine since they are layed out in a way as to not fug them up when you put them back on the porp valve.

 

I have been deaing wth Randy frm import auto salvage and I bet they are gettin sick of me....... so far I have returned a trailing arm, a porportion vavlve and a ecu.....all from one shipment of a changeover and a disk conversion....where can I find the stamp on the porpotion vavle

 

IAS is the short form for Import Auto Salvage.

 

If you still have your CX porp valve, look at it and you'll see the stamps. Then get the stamps off the porp valve you are using and let me know.

 

ohhh ok ..duh

so what does everyone think...master cylinder??

how could it just go bad...they said they took it out of an si.....it should have worked in the si unless thats why they crash ...so do I need a new master cylinder or can I adjust it? what does everyone think?

P.S. Thank you all for helping me in my time of need

 

TTT

 

Is the MC a 7/8ths or 1" unit? I have no idea what the Si uses. It might be that you should use the 1" Integra MC to be safe, if the Si doesn't have that already.

 

its the 1 inch

 

damn this goes fast...TTT

 

Shut the **** up fuzzyfucker. You are the most usless ******** on H-T, and many others agree.




[Modified by B18C5-EH2, 3:43 AM 3/27/2002]

 

TEL: 828-724-1616
FAX: 828-724-3209

Got that from my receipt.

 

The problem sounds like the one Jimmy L was describing. The pushrod in the brake booster is too long. What happens is: the pushrod from the brake booster that goes into the brake master cylinder is applying the brakes all of the time. The front brakes will tend to heat up and can even lock up so that the car won't even move. The pushrod is adjustable, so look in a Honda shop manual or a Chilton's and find the proper procedure for adjusting it. You can check to see if the adjustment is too tight by raising the front wheels and turning them by hand. The wheels should turn easily.If they don't, unbolt the master cylinder from the brake booster (without disconnecting the brake lines) and pull it out just a bit.Try turning the wheels again.If they now turn freely, you know that the pushrod is adjusted out too far.

 

thak u everyone for the help...I am going to work on it today

 

Talked to Randy from Import Auto Salavage and he is sending me a new master cylinder!!!!

There customer service is prety good..if u complain u get **** for free, but I wish they sent me the correct **** in the first place....they sent me a fried LS ECU with my swap, a drivers side rear trailing arm that was bent to ****, a fucked proportion valve and now this bull ****......**** IAS

 

Okay, let me say this about any salvage yard, including IAS:

They cannot possibly know for sure whether or not every parts works perfect. The ECU fried? How would they know? It would cost too much money to pay someone to test every ECU.

Wrong parts? It happens man. The guy taking your order - Randy or Larry Jr. tell their guys to go pick the ****. Sometimes the pickers get the wrong **** and package it wrong. IAS is all computerized man, so if the label or picker is wrong, you will get the wrong ****.

Did you know your sus piece was bent just by looking at it, or when you tried to bolt it up?

Agian the picker may have overlooked it. IAS is very busy and Larry Jr. and Randy cannot check every outgoing order personally. Sucks, but that's how it is.

At LEAST they replace the wrong/bad ****, right? Most yards will say "tough ****" so you shopuld be glad they're heliping you out.

I have always dealt with them, and I will continue to deal with them even after I have had **** shipped late and had a few mishaps on parts. That's the nature of the used parts business, so I just deal with it.

Good luck man.

 

I understand all of that completly....I am very fortunate to get stuff to replace the fucked up ****...I am just mad today...I will like them again tomorrow