The Crankshaft Pulley Bolt won't budge on my 97 Accord SE 4cyl (Non-VTEC) engine. I'm trying to remove it for a Timing/Balancer belt and water pump change.

My Haynes manual says to hold the crankshaft stationary and turn the pulley bolt "Counter Clockwise"

Can someone please confirm this for me?? Over the weekend I tried three different air impact wrenches, the last one being rated for 700ft lbs with no luck. My home compressor is no doubt not up to pro shop standards but I would think its good enough for this.

I'm considering taking the car to a tire shop that does large trucks. If I remove the bottom car shroud they would only have to remove the drivers wheel for complete access to the bolt. Confirmation of the bolt threads and any other advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

 

if your home compressor cannot sustain 100+ psi for at least 30 seconds it may be very hard to get the bolt loose. At the shop I work at we often use a 650+ lb/ft gun, but we run 150 psi at the shop with a 100+ gallon compressor, so we can hit the bolts for longer. Even then it sometimes takes 3 or 4 tries to ge tthem loose.
yes your haynes manual is correct.

 

See if you can borrow a good ELECTRIC impact wrench from someone, they will get ANY bolt off, I use a dewalt electric impact on crank pulley bolts.

 

see if u can get ur hands on a 3/4 impact, that is what i use on stubborn bolts such as that.........try to go back and forth a few times ... and yes to remove bolt u go COUNTER CLOCKWISE

 

And don't use an extension on that impact socket.

 

Thanks for all advice.

My compressor will only do 120psi and its a 15-20 gal unit. I'm sure it falls below 100psi alot sooner than 30 seconds. My dad has an electric impact but I'm not sure how good it is. I'm not using an extension on the socket.

I assume that the first belt replacement is the only one you have this kind of trouble on and on the next time this will be a bit easier? I can't believe Honda puts these on this tight.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by offroad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I assume that the first belt replacement is the only one you have this kind of trouble on and on the next time this will be a bit easier? I can't believe Honda puts these on this tight.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I doubt it, Honda just tightens them down pretty tight to spec. It prob. won't be much easier next time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by offroad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for all advice.

My compressor will only do 120psi and its a 15-20 gal unit. I'm sure it falls below 100psi alot sooner than 30 seconds. My dad has an electric impact but I'm not sure how good it is. I'm not using an extension on the socket.

I assume that the first belt replacement is the only one you have this kind of trouble on and on the next time this will be a bit easier? I can't believe Honda puts these on this tight.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You think they want it comming loose at 6,7,8 k rpm(depending on engine) . My h22 crank pulley bolt is torqued to 181ft, lbs, i used the honda pulley holder tool + 1/2 break over bar and cheater bar to break it loose.

 

take off your starter and use a big flathead to hold the flywheel down,
then try taking off the your crankpulley with an impact gun... need two people one to hold the flywheel and another person at the crankpulley
guaranted to work.......or try to use a poor mans impact gun wrench and hammer..

 

to get my crank bolt off my f22b1 vtech motor i used a 3/4inch breaker bar and a 4 foot steel poll thats how tight mine was wouldnt even budge with a 750lb ft 3/4inch impact!

 

If it comes down to it you can get a breaker bar and put it on the bolt and the handle ont he ground. Bump the engine about 2 times it should break it loose. That is the only way I could get the bolt off of my Gf's 95 V6.

 

One of the most idiotic things (I thought) I heard when I first got into this business was the technique for loosening bolts (rusted and other) by monentarily tightening them first. This works great with rusted/corroded bolts/nuts and others, it could work here. Try letting your impact gun whack it tighter for just a few hits and then hit reverse.

Although you might be the victim of the dreaded Locktite Blue. If that: Never Mind .....

P

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P_Adams &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">One of the most idiotic things (I thought) I heard when I first got into this business was the technique for loosening bolts (rusted and other) by monentarily tightening them first. This works great with rusted/corroded bolts/nuts and others, it could work here. Try letting your impact gun whack it tighter for just a few hits and then hit reverse.

Although you might be the victim of the dreaded Locktite Blue. If that: Never Mind .....

P</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats some great advice ive used it on the horrible lca bolts on other hondas along with a bit of heat from a blow torch

 

I used the starter bump method 3 times to lossen it up then i used the honda pulley holder tool and my breaker bar + 3 ft cheater bar to finally break it loose.

 

Thanks for the responses.

Re: The starter method, I thought these engines normally turned counter clockwise during running. If thats the case then if you put a socket and breakover bar on the bolt, brace it against the floor and hit the starter aren't you then turning the Crank pulley bolt Clockwise or Tightening it??

Also I don't have room for a 4 foot long cheater, I'm guessing if your using one of these you have the car up on a rack?

Thanks again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by offroad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Re: The starter method, I thought these engines normally turned counter clockwise during running. If thats the case then if you put a socket and breakover bar on the bolt, brace it against the floor and hit the starter aren't you then turning the Crank pulley bolt Clockwise or Tightening it??</TD></TR></TABLE>It looks like Sneezin's GF's car had a V6, which spins the opposite direction.

F-series 4-cyl Accord, bumping the starter will TIGHTEN the crank pulley bolt.
(Same with most 4-cyl Hondas before about 2003, like B & D-series.)

K-series 4-cyl (2003+), bumping the starter will loosen the crank pulley bolt.
I think(?) on all the V-6 engines it'll loosen the bolt.