edo

Castillo's Crankshaft Specialist was enlisted yet again for their quality service and expertise. These are pictures showing the F22C crank that has been modified for use in a K-series application.

This is a highly sought crank due to the bore spacing and main journal diameter compatibility with the K-series. However, the rod journal width is larger, but we actually prefer that along with the nice intermediate 90.7mm OEM stroke which will work very well in either K20 or K24 blocks. Unfortunately, it isn't drop-in as delivered from the factory. The F22C snout is machined differently in the keyway and shoulder that locates the lower sprocket. I didn't have an opportunity to shoot before shots, but I think we'll be doing more of these in the future and I'll be sure to take some then for reference.

This crank will be used in our 2308cc Supercharged development motor based on the K24 block. It also will be paired with 6.250" Cunningham rods, our JE customs and will net a 1.75 r/s ratio.

-Ron

Professor15

Which crank would be cheaper and more reliable? going with a castillo or does the f22c handle the job just aswell and would be a cheaper alternative? Keep up the good threads.

edo

They're both Honda OEM forged cranks. If you want 90.7mm this is the crank for you and you can add all the a la carte features you want that's on Castillo's menu of crank prep services. Or, you can save some money and just run it with the bare necessities to make it work.

-Ron

ShaunRR

Do you happen to know the MSRP for this crank from Honda? I won't ask for the cost of the machine work, since you aren't a sponsor and I don't want to get you in trouble. Unless you want to PM it to me

edo

http://www.hondaautomotivepart...SHAFT

1006.89 755.16


-Ron

chameleon

hey edo, im glad you mentioned "the bare necessities to make it work" im very interested in knowing what that is. im sure i would get the crank polished and balanced further to be on the safe side but exactly what is needed and costs to getting this in there?? and im reffering to rods, pistons? to achieve 12.3~ comp

subscribed.

blundar

This is going to be one hell of a ******* amazing motor. 2.3 almost 2.4L AND 1.75 R/S AND i-Vtec... I sincerely hope that you know/measure the coefficient of stretch for those rods you're using.

edo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chameleon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey edo, im glad you mentioned "the bare necessities to make it work" im very interested in knowing what that is. im sure i would get the crank polished and balanced further to be on the safe side but exactly what is needed and costs to getting this in there?? and im reffering to rods, pistons? to achieve 12.3~ comp

subscribed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, the minimum to get this crank to work in the K-series is what you see in the pics above. I'm not spearheading the Supercharged development program, but if I were this crank would get similar treatment to the rest of our cranks in terms of journal prep, chamfer and radiusing. Stress relieving and balancing are a given too.

Back to the basics though. This crank in a K24 block requires a long rod. Depending on your wristpin height, you can easily run a 6.250" c-c. Getting 12.5cr with this crank is straightforward, since we were able to attain 12.8cr with a shorter 88mm stroke. It will take less dome than our current NA piston.

-Ron

edo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blundar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is going to be one hell of a ******* amazing motor. 2.3 almost 2.4L AND 1.75 R/S AND i-Vtec... I sincerely hope that you know/measure the coefficient of stretch for those rods you're using. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Why be safe, we're on the bleeding edge! Haha, seriously though, the motor has been spec'd meticulously and components were purpose built for this particular application. Cunningham Rods

-Ron

chameleon

thanks for the response Ron, what about using this crank in a k20 block ?

edo

That would work very well, so would a little stroke up too based on the same crank.

-Ron

ismkv8s

why not mod an h22 crank ?? same 90.7??

edo

I'm not too familiar which H crank it is, but they have longer snouts, and one flavor of H (I think the 95mm) has larger mains. So, to use an H crank will require extensive modification beyond this particular (F22C) crank. Also, the H snout is not threaded with the correct pitch to accept the K-series crank pulley bolt. It goes on an on. With the H-crank that has larger mains, you could grind them down to the proper journal diameter or you could align bore (over) the block/girdle main bore. If you decided to go that route, you're into uncharted territory and will probably spend more than a new billet crank.

-Ron

ismkv8s

ok just wondering cuz I am watching all your info here and on k20a.org. To decide if I am going to swap out in favor of the k.

edo

If your setup isn't broken, then keep pushing the H. If you haven't already, look into the roller-rocker setup and see if you can get Crane to grind you something special because that's the hot setup for H-series valvetrain upgrade from what I hear. I only recommend this because you stated having 396cfm @ .500" with your H cylinder head. That's awesome if it's true. The K-series stuff we have is approaching 400cfm, but nowhere near that low of a lift. Best I know of (at that lift) is 355cfm @ .500" - 28in. But then again, that's just peak numbers. It's all about maximizing area under the curve. We just put down 235ft/lbs dynojet untuned on our latest build with an unported K20A2 cylinder head on gas. Can't wait til we sort out the electrical gremlins and ignition issues to see what the motor really has in it with this config. Then we'll slap the good head and go for the gusto.

-Ron