Well i've been trying to figure out wtf is going on with my car for like 2 weeks now and I'm starting to get kinda pissed.. I checked all vacuum lines and all sensors on I.M. and still have not found out why my idle is surging from 900-1600, also I dont throw any CEL... Well I just unplugged the sensor directly behind the throttle body, which i believe is the IACV and than started my car, and it started up fine with no surging idle and just sat at 1900 rpms... i drove it around the block and it stayed at 1900, than i shut it off, plugged sensor back in an started car, than it started surging again... could this be my problem....

 

samething is happeining to me it surges from 2000 down to 1200 then back to 2000... i replaced my iacv and still does it.. when i disconecct the harness from it it idles fine... http://www.ef-honda.com/ben/Badidle.php


thats what they pointed me towards

 

bleed ur coolent and make sure u have the right plug in the iacv..

 

how do i go about bleeding my coolant on a 92-95 hatch

 

should be a bleeder valve on the thermostat housing. 12mm wrench, run car and let it get warm, loosen valve and let the coolent **** out. close valve. turn off car and reset ur ecu. then see if it still does it. if not clean out ur iacv.

 

exact same thing happend to me it was my FITV (Fast Idle Temp Valve) which is located below the throttle body on most D series and B series. There is a plate you have to unscrew and then inside the FITV you have to tighten the valve with a flathead screwdriver. Takes about 10 mins at the most. Mine hasnt given me problems since.

 

Hey thanks a lot for that link bro, that **** helped me out a lot... I havent had a chance to get under the hood yet because I work mon-fri since i read that, but i printed it out and im gonna work on it today, hopefully i fix this ****... It didnt happen until i swapped in my P28 and ever since then its been goin on, but i put my stock P06 back in an unplugged vtec and it still does it, but hopefully i fix it soon.... Thanks again for the link...

 

I took off my iacv module on my D15B, the whole thing and replaced it with my old one off of my old motor "d15b7" and it still surges... So i'm think it's either coolant line has air in it or FITV, but it's dark and raining out and i have 3 bikes in the garage so that aint workin lol... so looks like its wait til tomorrow... Also, is there any difference in the IACV, TPS, ect between SOHC's???? d15b7, d16z6, d15b, ect...

 

WOOOHOOOOOO..!!!! <^> FITV <^>

I just took all of 10 minutes to do the FITV write up problem solver, and guess what... IT WORKED..!!! Hell yeah, now I finally dont have to be embarassed everytime i pull up to a redlight or stop sign... Vroooooooooom, blah, Vrooooooooom, blah no more..!! Hey dude, u should definitely try it, it worked for me.... Thanks for the link too thats how i figured out how to fix it...!!

 

i was happy when i finally fixed mine, everyone was like "ur cam seems a little faster and it idles funny... do u have a cam? "

 

check your CEL codes...if it's 14 it's the IACV

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM *** &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check your CEL codes...if it's 14 it's the IACV</TD></TR></TABLE>

he said he does throw any codes

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LB562 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">samething is happeining to me it surges from 2000 down to 1200 then back to 2000... i replaced my iacv and still does it.. when i disconecct the harness from it it idles fine... http://www.ef-honda.com/ben/Badidle.php


thats what they pointed me towards</TD></TR></TABLE>

i gotta try this hopfully it will work been like this for like 5 months now at least

 

Most of the time its the FITV not the IAVC. check the FITV first

 

yeah it was my FITV... Are there any long term issues I'm gonna encounter by screwing in that white cap in the FITV..??? That's how it says to fix it, but.... Never know the long term **** off hand.... Unless maybe someone has experience?

 

Since your basically disabling the FITV, your cold idle will be compromised.

 

is it bad for ur car to disable to FITV though? i see so many writeups on people doing it for the better, but is there a potential downfall????

 

Its not bad for it - just won't run as intended until it gets warmed up.

The potential downfall is....a reduced cold idle speed.

Whats the worse that'll happen - you 'fix' it and don't like the results so you buy a new one and install it? One way you've spent $0 and settled for whatever it is that happens as a result, otherwise you pony up and buy a new one thus letting the engine run as it was intended to.

Your call - its not gonna hurt to try the 'fix' since **** is broke anyway.

 

Try TPS if you have one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its not bad for it - just won't run as intended until it gets warmed up.

The potential downfall is....a reduced cold idle speed.

Whats the worse that'll happen - you 'fix' it and don't like the results so you buy a new one and install it? One way you've spent $0 and settled for whatever it is that happens as a result, otherwise you pony up and buy a new one thus letting the engine run as it was intended to.

Your call - its not gonna hurt to try the 'fix' since **** is broke anyway.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The car should still idle fine without the FITV. I removed the one of my 95 GSR and sure, it idles a "little" lower when it cold.. but its nothing to worry about. Still runs smooth and all like it should.

 

Oh well, I guess mines fixed.. I put p28 back in, wired it up, an it works perfectly.. Just with a minor riced FITV lol...

 

im having the same problem with a 93 teg. we just swapped in a b18b and we also swapped over the b18b IM and TB. First night we got it swapped it idled fine, ran fine, then we had a suspension problem. So a week later we got the suspension problem fixed and tried driving and it started idling all funny jumping up and down till it finally just cuts itself off. So we adjusted a few things on the IM and test drove it and the car just died and wont start back up again. Any ideas?

 

might have 2 plugs crossed up. i did that on my swap. there is a plug that looks like the map sensor plug which i plugged in and my car sounded like a v8 idling so i unplugged it and plugged in the map sensors correct plug and it idled fine. other than that i would say FITV then IACV

 

its not ur iac....its ur fast idle...inside is a little screw that is most likley loose..tighten it all the way and i bet it will stop surging...

 

He fixed his idle problem if you didn't notice.

Anyway I just want to throw in that he isolated his IACV in his first post. If you unplug your IACV and it idles high, that means you have a vacuum leak and the IACV is not the culprit. It should idle at the correct RPM with the IACV unplugged, but you need a IACV to inject air in situations like when the radiator fan comes on or the alternator puts a bigger load on the engine.

This information can be found in the repair manual, which you should buy before you go drop big gobs of money on a IACV. The engine repair manual is the one Honda related product that no one on HT has heard of.