Hello everyone,

I have a 94 EX with a B18c swap. Other than I/E the motor is stock for now. I am currently working on getting this thing boosted and so far have acquired the turbo which is a HKS unit(pretty much a rebadged T3), massive front mount intercooler, cometic triple layer head gasket, arp head studs, honda type R LSD, new synco's and rebuilt tranny, with lightened flywheel and ACT stage 3 clutch. My long term goal for this motor is pretty high, I would like to end up around 20lbs of boost(I know this turbo wont support it, dont flame)and have a goal of 500whp. Of course that is with a full build and a nice stand alone unit, but as of right now Im realistically looking maybe 10psi and am a little strapped for cash due to the fact I just bought my first house. So my first question is what size fuel injectors should I be looking at, that would support the 10psi and still give me a little room to boost higher if I want to? Second question is will a piggy back setup like the VAFC be good enough to keep from blowing my motor to little itty bitty pieces? Any suggestions as far as fuel management would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

--Justin.

 

uberdata

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wantboost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">uberdata</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

werd

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wantboost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">uberdata</TD></TR></TABLE>

YAH BABY!!! hehehe

I posted this several times already. But for as little as $70-$100 you can be uber ready. That's assuming you have your own laptop, and some ECU soldering skills and soldering equipment. If you dont know how to solder ECU's, http://www.moates.net has a service where if you buy the chipping stuff from them (which is only $15) they will install the stuff into your ECU which will only cost you another $25.

 

hmmm....intresting. I was looking through a couple of the uber data sites and forums, but they are all still very technical,(no very computer literate) and what modification dose this require to the ECU. So far sounds like a great option. Thanks guys.

 

Your ecu has a chip (like a centipeede looking thing) on it that stores your cars fuel and timing data on it. You can pay someone to remove it and install a socket, so you can take chips in an out at your own leisure.

You go buy a chip burner and burn a chip with what you think is a good fuel table, then you drive your car and see using a number of sensors (that re very expensive) you can see how your car is running and make the appropriate changes to the fueltables, timing tables, and modifiers of both.

An entire Uberdata setup will cost you about 500. Thats a wideband, an ecu chipped and socketed, a chip burner + chips, and a conversion harness if ya need it. If not.....


Go get a chip emulator. It emulates a chip signal into the socket so you dont need to take the chip out and burn it every timeyou make changes. An emulator costs 170 from moates.net and its a great emulator with support in Crome and Uberdata.


If you use free engine manegement software, you can use ANY of them at ALL of the times. I ran into some bugs with what i normally use, crome, and now i'm using uberdata instead. Perfect, everything works great!

Now personally, I like Crome better. I think its a better program to work with.

http://www.ecimulti.org/uberdata/forum/
http://forum.pgmfi.org/viewfor...37fbf

 

Cool, thanks alot. Now for my other question, what size injectors should I be looking for in order to run 10lbs and still have room for more boost if I want to?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Reedy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cool, thanks alot. Now for my other question, what size injectors should I be looking for in order to run 10lbs and still have room for more boost if I want to?</TD></TR></TABLE>

10 PSI on a B18C is roughly 300 HP...550 cc's are good for about that much at stock fuel pressure and 85% duty cycle. 650's should be good for around 350 HP at stock fuel pressure and 85% duty cycle. 650 cc injectors will definately be good enough for 10 psi/300 HP, and it can handle a little more power for your future needs.

EDIT: BTW your injector size is dependent on your HP goals, not the amount of PSI you run. I've seen HP numbers between 240-300 WHP for B18C's at 9-10 PSI. Regardless of what PSI you are gonna be running, just make sure that you dont max out your injectors, HP wise.


Modified by BlueShadow at 11:23 AM 2/6/2005

 

Ive been trying to read through the uber data forums(man theres alot Im trying to learn right now) and from what Ive gathered Ill need a Wide band o2, and this http://www.moates.net/product_...id=55 Am I correct or am I missing something else?


Modified by Reedy at 8:25 PM 2/6/2005

 

just get 880s and be done with it. With Uberdata, Hondata, Nuptune you can make them idle perfectly and you wont have to upgrade for a loooong time most likely.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Reedy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ive been trying to read through the uber data forums(man theres alot Im trying to learn right now) and from what Ive gathered Ill need a Wide band o2, and this http://www.moates.net/product_...id=55 Am I correct or am I missing something else?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope, that's the wrong one. If you are starting from scratch and have to chip your ECu the go to Moates and get the following.

- UBER 1 chipping kit
- BURN 1

And if you dont know how to chip your own ECU:
- Moates ECU chipping service

Also, another alternative to the BURN 1 burner is the Willem Enhanced Burner I haven't used the Willem because I have the BURN 1, but from what I've read the Willem isn't as user friendly as the BURN 1 burner. However you do save $35. With the Willem you can burn 27C256 chips which have to be erased with a UV light. The 29C256 chips dont require a UV light to erase, however you have to use a paperclip or something and kinda jury-rig the Willem to burn the 29C256 chip.

If none of that stuf I just said makes sense check out the Keebler link in my sig.

 

To run Uberdata or any others, all you need is an Ostrich(http://www.moates.net/product_...id=57), a socketed VTEC 5-spd ecu (think p28), and a conversion harness if your car isn't obd1.

To tune the car, you will need at least a wideband. Or you can just take it to a professional.

 

Ostrich is all good and everything for real time tuning, but it's not really necessary. the burner option is still a good low cost option that has been tried and tested. The only downside is having to turn the car off pop the chip out and burning your new chip and sticking it back in everytime you have to make a change. On a dyno all that extra time might cost money.

I think there's still a few bugs to work out in the Ostrich. Hopefully Craig Moates will be able to have it all sorted out soon. I'd like to get one and sell my BURN1, but I still need to do up a lot of reading on it to see how it works and see what other peoples experiences are with it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ostrich is all good and everything for real time tuning, but it's not really necessary. the burner option is still a good low cost option that has been tried and tested. The only downside is having to turn the car off pop the chip out and burning your new chip and sticking it back in everytime you have to make a change. On a dyno all that extra time might cost money.

I think there's still a few bugs to work out in the Ostrich. Hopefully Craig Moates will be able to have it all sorted out soon. I'd like to get one and sell my BURN1, but I still need to do up a lot of reading on it to see how it works and see what other peoples experiences are with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm currently running my boosted obd0 car off the Ostrich. I use the shareware TunerProRT to upload the bins while im rolling around. I leave it plugged in... emulator... and tune while driving around.

Only thing that is needed is turning off the checksum thingy in TunerPro and it all works... also... don't veryify bin while running off emulator and all works fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bailhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just get 880s and be done with it. With Uberdata, Hondata, Nuptune you can make them idle perfectly and you wont have to upgrade for a loooong time most likely.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good advice right here.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wantboost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">uberdata</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

So your saying the wide band would not be needed if Im tuning it on a dyno equiped with one. I do sort of like the idea of the emulator because I do plan on dyno tuning, IMO its the only way to go.

 

well, most dynos use a wideband that is placed in your tailpipe. the problem here is that the afr's are off. i ve heard by as much as one full point

 

What you "need" is a chipped ECU, larger injectors and that is it.

Everything else can be done by someone who is tuning your car.

The ostrich is a pretty advanced item.

If you are getting a burner and you want cheap, then go with the willem. They are like $50 shipped. They do the same thing as the Moates burner, they burn chips.

I would suggest some 550cc injectors. They are cheaper than RC's and more reliable that DSM's.

http://www.stealthmodeperforma...shtml

 

i also like and use crome, seems more stable than uberdata.
i have a burn1 and ostrich. the ostrich is nice but not required, although it is faster.
i use a zeitronix wideband with display and like it. just my .02

 

Apex Power FC is only about 600.00 now

 

then you have to add in the cost of the boost kit and the datalogit software which is 350 in itself

 

UBERDATA

cant say enough good things about it....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Reedy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So your saying the wide band would not be needed if Im tuning it on a dyno equiped with one. I do sort of like the idea of the emulator because I do plan on dyno tuning, IMO its the only way to go.</TD></TR></TABLE>

A WB setup is not required but it is highly recommended, same thing with the Ostrich.

Like I said above at the BARE MINIMUM you can be up and running with Uberdata for $70-$100. This price <u>does not</u> include the price for a wideband setup, or an Ostrich. The Ostrich is nice to have, because it makes for faster tuning, but people have gotten by with tuning UD on dynos with burners in the past . A WB setup is also highly recommended, but you could borrow your friends WB. Or if you do decide to buy one, they can be found on sale for as low as $280.