found the CLUTCH problem
Well I pulled the tranny and the clutch was fine as well as the pressure plate and bearing. BUT here is the problem.

SOOO can i use the old bolts and what could have caused this? I torqued them down to 81lbs. I did forget to use LOC-TITE but could that happen so quickly? only 200 miles? The crank bolt holes look ok not stripped or anything.

SOOO can i use the old bolts and what could have caused this? I torqued them down to 81lbs. I did forget to use LOC-TITE but could that happen so quickly? only 200 miles? The crank bolt holes look ok not stripped or anything.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hOndafienD 04 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what did you torque the bolts to? </TD></TR></TABLE>
As tight as I humanly could.
As tight as I humanly could.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
As tight as I humanly could.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So not very tight huh?
As tight as I humanly could.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So not very tight huh?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hoehouseworker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So not very tight huh?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
hahahahaha
</TD></TR></TABLE>hahahahaha
My symptoms are here....
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1060391
I torked them to 81 lbs and they came loose im worried my crank is bad.. i looked at the threads and there fine... and this is only the second time the fly wheel bolts were torked down the first time being at the factory. So i hope its not stripped.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1060391
I torked them to 81 lbs and they came loose im worried my crank is bad.. i looked at the threads and there fine... and this is only the second time the fly wheel bolts were torked down the first time being at the factory. So i hope its not stripped.
Inspect it carefully for stripped threads, if everything is cool, don't sweat it. That happened to me about 2.5 months ago except 6 of 8 came free. You can't use your clutch/flywheel again so that sucks. I'd imagine the back of your disc is nicked up, and the disc hub probably rubbed up on your pressure plate, and the flywheel is probably scarred up from the bolts back out. Oh, and if you need another stock flywheel, you can have mine, just pay for shipping.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
As tight as I humanly could.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats good! the only things i torque are any parts with bearings in them....crank, cam, etc.....everything else i just tighten all the way...
im scared of **** coming loose.
As tight as I humanly could.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats good! the only things i torque are any parts with bearings in them....crank, cam, etc.....everything else i just tighten all the way...
im scared of **** coming loose.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrettyLude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">loctite is ur friend</TD></TR></TABLE>
i've learned to use it....
i've learned to use it....
I got new bolts today and threaded one in all the way each hole by hand to be sure i didnt mess the crank threads.. it went in all the way smoothly in all the holes so im pritty sure the crank is ok. I think what may have made them vibrate out is my crank puly it is chipped to all hell. So ill get a new one well a stock new one... and have the flywheel checked and trued to be sure there is no unneeded virbation. I will put it all back together on friday at the hobby shop because the hobby shop is closed this week tues-thursday. After that i think im going to make an appointment with Wayne for like monday or tuesday befor i go to Desert Talon.
But over all im glad it was a easy fix.. but good lord those bolts are expensive. $9 just for 2 of them... BETTER than a new clutch or tranny i sapose..
But over all im glad it was a easy fix.. but good lord those bolts are expensive. $9 just for 2 of them... BETTER than a new clutch or tranny i sapose..
Glad to hear the clutch and flywheel were salvageable. USE RED LOCTITE. I loctited the **** out of every bolt. FYI: According to Helms, you have to get new rear motor mount bolts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jackstands »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Glad to hear the clutch and flywheel were salvageable. USE RED LOCTITE. I loctited the **** out of every bolt. FYI: According to Helms, you have to get new rear motor mount bolts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Umm are you saying that sarcasticly? Meaning helms says get new bolts but ya dont need them?
Umm are you saying that sarcasticly? Meaning helms says get new bolts but ya dont need them?
Just in case anyone was wondering... I built jeff's shortblock. When I saw the crank pulley I immediately told him not to run it. The reason the flywheel bolts backed out is because of the SEVERLY damaged crank pulley he used. The harmonic vibrations that the pulley sent through the rotating assembly in my opinion could have caused the flywheel bolts to back out. I wish I had a picture of the pulley... it was REALLY bad. That, or they were not properly torqued/installed.
Oh well. You live and learn. I recommend always using loctite on the flywheel bolts as well as triple checking the torques on every bolt.
Oh well. You live and learn. I recommend always using loctite on the flywheel bolts as well as triple checking the torques on every bolt.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MyVtec8yourV8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I pulled the tranny and the clutch was fine as well as the pressure plate and bearing. BUT here is the problem.

SOOO can i use the old bolts and what could have caused this? I torqued them down to 81lbs. I did forget to use LOC-TITE but could that happen so quickly? only 200 miles? The crank bolt holes look ok not stripped or anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>
wo someones got some secondorder bottom end vibrations.. isn't this a common problem on some 5th gens,, i think i went alittle tighter than 81 ft/lbs ..
replae the bolts you will never get a grip on those to re tighten, and if they are bent or the threads are chewed you don't want to screw that into your crank
edit: just read anthonys post, .. harmonic balancer is important, i wouldn't runa fucked up one

SOOO can i use the old bolts and what could have caused this? I torqued them down to 81lbs. I did forget to use LOC-TITE but could that happen so quickly? only 200 miles? The crank bolt holes look ok not stripped or anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>
wo someones got some secondorder bottom end vibrations.. isn't this a common problem on some 5th gens,, i think i went alittle tighter than 81 ft/lbs ..
replae the bolts you will never get a grip on those to re tighten, and if they are bent or the threads are chewed you don't want to screw that into your crank
edit: just read anthonys post, .. harmonic balancer is important, i wouldn't runa fucked up one
Yea i bought new bolts.. there like 5 bucks a peice..lol but here is a pict of my fucked up pully that Anthony was talking about. Im putting a new pully and having the fly wheel resurfaced and trued.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostedH23Accord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Man!!!! That thing looks like you got Gremlins under your hood.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you got a h22 in an accord you will most likly agree its a tight fit.. i chipped it getting it in the car the first time wish all the belts on.. now if i got to pull the motor i take the pully off.
If you got a h22 in an accord you will most likly agree its a tight fit.. i chipped it getting it in the car the first time wish all the belts on.. now if i got to pull the motor i take the pully off.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MyVtec8yourV8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you got a h22 in an accord you will most likly agree its a tight fit.. i chipped it getting it in the car the first time wish all the belts on.. now if i got to pull the motor i take the pully off.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You dont have to take the motor out to take the pulley off on an accord. I just did my timing belt on my h22 accord and all you have to do it lower the drivers side of the motor. So just take that mount off.
You dont have to take the motor out to take the pulley off on an accord. I just did my timing belt on my h22 accord and all you have to do it lower the drivers side of the motor. So just take that mount off.


