Oil Pressure Below 4.5psi. What Thick Oil Should I Use?
My oil light came on. Apparently its because the car is under 4.5psi right?
Well Im running full synthetic now so it would be pretty think, the oil reason oil pressure would be down is because of to much clearance between the bearings correct?
Would you guys suggest just switching to a thick oil? What kind? Numbers?
BTW- Sohc zc non vtec n/a, just a winter beater
Well Im running full synthetic now so it would be pretty think, the oil reason oil pressure would be down is because of to much clearance between the bearings correct?
Would you guys suggest just switching to a thick oil? What kind? Numbers?
BTW- Sohc zc non vtec n/a, just a winter beater
not tearing down the motor, its a beater and I have a built A6 in pieces with a big snail for the summer.
I know thicker oil will bump it up so itll make a few more months, jsut need to know what kind number wise
I know thicker oil will bump it up so itll make a few more months, jsut need to know what kind number wise
if you have a problem thicker oil could only make it worse, dont put a band aid on a broken leg, fix the problem not the symptom.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1017751
just found this thread. Looks like this oil problem is more thna I thought. Ive also got the loss of power and car stuttering when warmed up and driving. I thought it was my tranny
BTW- thicker oil would raise the pressure a bit, like I said, its a beater. Im not dropping $1500 into new bearings or a tear down
just found this thread. Looks like this oil problem is more thna I thought. Ive also got the loss of power and car stuttering when warmed up and driving. I thought it was my tranny
BTW- thicker oil would raise the pressure a bit, like I said, its a beater. Im not dropping $1500 into new bearings or a tear down
I know crank bearings are cheap. But I def wouldnt be trying to do it myself and it isnt something you can do with simple hand tools
I cant afford the down time of the car, nor do I have a back up to drive
replacing bearings isnt an option but if you check out the thread I posted above, I dont think bearings are my problem
I cant afford the down time of the car, nor do I have a back up to drive
replacing bearings isnt an option but if you check out the thread I posted above, I dont think bearings are my problem
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 Cam Wonder »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know crank bearings are cheap. But I def wouldnt be trying to do it myself and it isnt something you can do with simple hand tools
I cant afford the down time of the car, nor do I have a back up to drive
replacing bearings isnt an option but if you check out the thread I posted above, I dont think bearings are my problem</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dude, replacing the bearings is easy.
Drop the header and oil pan, drop the windage tray, drop the main caps/girdle. Remove the rod caps, rotate the crank a bit so it's out of the way and replace the bearings in each rod. Reinstall the rod caps. Replace the bearings in the main caps/girdle you removed. Look up at the crank and use a small flathead screwdriver to GENTLY tap the edge of the bearing you can see that DOES NOT have the notch. It will push out the other side, then pull it all the way out w/ your hand. Reinsert the the new bearing the same way in the reverse order.
Bolt everything back up. Voila!
Who's ya daddy?
I cant afford the down time of the car, nor do I have a back up to drive
replacing bearings isnt an option but if you check out the thread I posted above, I dont think bearings are my problem</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dude, replacing the bearings is easy.
Drop the header and oil pan, drop the windage tray, drop the main caps/girdle. Remove the rod caps, rotate the crank a bit so it's out of the way and replace the bearings in each rod. Reinstall the rod caps. Replace the bearings in the main caps/girdle you removed. Look up at the crank and use a small flathead screwdriver to GENTLY tap the edge of the bearing you can see that DOES NOT have the notch. It will push out the other side, then pull it all the way out w/ your hand. Reinsert the the new bearing the same way in the reverse order.
Bolt everything back up. Voila!
Who's ya daddy?
First I wanna try some thick oil
What kind of number would be on the bottle? 5w-30?
Some nice thick **** that would be alright for dd
What kind of number would be on the bottle? 5w-30?
Some nice thick **** that would be alright for dd
20w-50
It's not going to work, there's nothing you can pour in your motor to fix this problem. You're going to have to take something apart. It doesn't matter if it's a beater, it's not invincible. If you keep it up, it'll stop being a beater and start being a broke. Pay now or pay later; if you wait you'll still be without the car.
It's not going to work, there's nothing you can pour in your motor to fix this problem. You're going to have to take something apart. It doesn't matter if it's a beater, it's not invincible. If you keep it up, it'll stop being a beater and start being a broke. Pay now or pay later; if you wait you'll still be without the car.
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Supahr_Ed
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May 27, 2006 11:51 AM




