for some reason or another i'm running 20W50 - and after i've driven my car for about 10 minutes, the oil light comes on and the car gets slower and slower and slower, and then i let it cool down and its fine again - i have full oil, and its new (oil change 50 miles ago)

 

why are you using 20w50?

 

i think you got something blocking your pickup...using thicker oil should boost up your pressure. i suggest go back to regular oil...i thinking you are using the racing oil or something.

 

yep - 20W50 racing oil - we pulled off the valvecover and turned the car on for 3 or 4 seconds and it didn't spray very much oil - it was like a very fine mist that looked like it was coming from the drain holes in the head - not from under the cam - too little oil it looked like. we have yet to pull off the oil pan and check out the sump. by the way, i don't think i explained it very well. i drive and after it reaches normal operating temperature for a while, the oil light flickers, and flickers more and then eventually the light is just on all the time. then after you've driven it for a while with the oil light on, you hear a loud knocking and the car loses pretty much all power, but still idles fine? earlier it lost power so fast i thought i siezed the engine somehow with full oil. mad smoke pours from the oil cap when i take it off and when i pull out the dipstick. we took off the feed line from the turbo to see if my oil pump was working correctly and it sprayed like a ************ all over. so i'm thinking maybe something's clogged in the head? this would be like the 3rd head on this motor in a week.

 

i switched back to 10W30 and test drove the piece of **** again and it still has the same problem - it seems that as soon as it reaches operating temperature it does this, (absolutely no power, could barely get it into the driveway, and oil pressure light on.)

 

well since you stole the motor you deserve what your getting....

theif

 

holy ****, this guys got the same problem as me