Two weekends ago at VIR my radiator developed a crack in the upper plastic tank that is releasing coolant steam very slowly. My replacement radiator is coming via FedEx ground from CA and won't arrive here until next week. The leak is small enough that I hope it's safe for me to drive my short trip to-and-from work every day. Thankfully it's also pretty cold, I take it really easy on the engine, and the temp gauge hasn't progressed past its normal operating temperature mark. Unfortunately I'm not sure how the radiator reservoir system works. Since the coolant reservoir drops below the min mark every few days, I've assumed that the reservoir not only collects boiled-over coolant, but also feeds the radiator should its level become low. So I figure as long as I keep the reservoir between the min and max mark and the temp gauge doesn't shoot up, I'm okay. Am I correct? Do I also need to fill up the radiator directly as well?
Worst-case scenario, if my radiator were to become completely depleted of coolant, would my temp gauge shoot up as the engine overheats, or would it drop because there's no fluid for the sensor to read the temperature of? I'd really hate to damage my new engine. Thanks for any input.

 

try jb weld....worked for me for 20,000 miles!!!!

 

Or buy a new one.

 

Thanks for the reply. Well since the crack is on a plastic part of the radiator, I figured stuff like that won't work? I only have to drive it for a week. I just want know if what I'm currently doing is safe enough?

(nothing nicer than a new radiator under the xmas tree!)

 

Sorry guys but I did mention my new radiator is arriving next week. I just need to limp this thing through the week.

 

If it's held up this long, it will probably continue to hold up.

JB Weld doesn't work on plastic.

Consider renting a car. I know how much you have invested in that engine and I sure wouldn't risk it. Uhaul trucks are about $19/day+mileage.

 

Keep an eye on your coolant level and you'll be fine. As soon as the new radiator shows up, install it.

--Karl, who went through the same thing on his car last year...

 

Carry a couple gallons of water with you in the hatch. If the temp starts to get warm do not push your luck. Pull over and let the car cool down. Overheating can blow an engine very easily.

 

Yup, thanks all, I've actually been carrying [overkill] 4 gallons of 50/50 coolant/water in the trunk and check the reservoir level before and after every drive (each no longer than 20 minutes, twice a day, in 40 degree weather).
Thanks again.

 

Continue to fill the overflow AND check the radiator itself when it is cool.

 

Glad this post was up here. My radiator started to leak today! I'm going to get the empty milk jugs filled with water and put then in the hatch in the morning. What kind of radiator did you order? I'm considering purchasing the Fluidyne and was wondering if anyone had any input on this since all of my friends are using stock ones. Its not a necessity to have a better then stock radiator for my car at the moment, but I'm considering trying SCCA racing and thought it might be benifical and would probably cost the same or just a little more then a new one from Honda anyway. Thanks for any input.

 

Duct tape

 

jdmciviceg, check this out. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=101378

 

Water is fine in TN, but here in MD it's getting below freezing at night so I'm using 50/50. Anyways, my first thought for a replacement radiator was Fluidyne, but they don't make one for my 4th gen Accord, only the 5th gen. So I got an all-aluminum Koyo (I guess it's just like the Fluidyne but a Japanese brand) from www.absoluteradiator.com. It was pricey (even though Absolute Radiator has good prices) and I had to buy a slim-line fan as well, but I spare no expense when it comes to the car. The only drawback is that it's being ground-shipped from CA.

 

Umm... The factory temp gauge is so thoroughly innaccurate that I really wouldn't put any stock in where it is reading. Seriously. at 220 degrees it is in the same position as it is at 150. Be careful.

 

You can try PC-7 epoxy, that'll hold on plastic (and you can find it at Home Depot/Lowe's). I also found some good repair/restoration products by a company called POR-15 ( http://www.porstore.com ). - Probably pointless if a new rad is on the way. - POR-15 has an epoxy with a tensile strength of 4,000 psi (I almost want to make a strut bar out of it to see if it will hold)

 

JB Weld will last for about a week on plastic until it starts to leak. Even epoxy will last about a week before it starts deteriorating and melting off. I'd do the following:
-Keep a close eye on the temp gauge.
-Throw some JB Weld on, since you only need the radiator to last a week.
-Keep water/coolant (or just water) in your car.

I had a similar problem this summer. It is the worst when its 100 degrees with the heat index, and your running the heater to keep the temperature needle down. Mine was a broken overflow. Just be thankful this happened to you in the winter.

 

If you are looking for a deal on a radiator, go to http://www.radiator.com and use coupon# AC116 for $20.00 off your purchase. They have OEM style replacements, KOYO all aluminum (better than Fluidine), and copper brass replacements.

 

I vote that "radiator" get banned from honda-tech.com. He's been spamming that same two line message in all the forums, from all these different messages he's dug up from the archives.

radiator, STOP IT.