I have a 94 GSR. How do you remove an altenator without removing the half shaft? I would like to hear from those who have done this job.

 

err what. The alternator comes off without the half-shaft being removed. Are you talking about something else?

 

Ive done this on my G2 integra but never my G3 integra before, But it looks possible. What I do is remove the bolts from the intermediate shaft so the bracket can swing down out of the way. Youll need to remove the oil filter and maybe un bolt the lower strut bar, and maybe the header.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ive done this on my G2 integra but never my G3 integra before, But it looks possible. What I do is remove the bolts from the intermediate shaft so the bracket can swing down out of the way. Youll need to remove the oil filter and maybe un bolt the lower strut bar, and maybe the header. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yikes, that's alot more work than just removing the left CV shaft. I just had to unbolt my exhaust and remove the lower brace (runs across in front of the steering rack) the other day and it was a total PITA. Removing the CV shaft is way easier, at least for me.

 

No its not at all. Its a few bolts and an oil filter. I dont think you even have to remove the header. Removing axles can be super hard for people who have never done them before or on an old car with original axles. This is an alternative method.

 

I've gotten mine in and out by just removing the lower strut bar or whatever that thing is. I got to it (the strut brace bolts) from the top by linking up a bunch of extensions on a 3/8" socket wrench.

 

Which lower beam/bar is it?

Is it the ROD, RR. BEAM PERFORMANCE (Illustration No. 5)?

Or is it the BEAM, RR. POWER STEERING (Illustration No. 3)?

http://www.hondapartsunlimited...dIrno=

--------------------------------------------------------------
Do you have to unbolt the catalyic converter (Illustration No. 3) from the exhaust manifold A pipe (Illustration No. 8)?

http://www.hondapartsunlimited...dIrno=
------------------------------------------------------------
Do you have to unbolt the half shaft support (Illustration No. 18) and flip it down?

http://www.hondapartsunlimited...dIrno=

 

^

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nb0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a 94 GSR. How do you remove an altenator without removing the half shaft? I would like to hear from those who have done this job.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i just squeezed mine between the half shaft and the block. just pull on it hard enough and it'll come out. and when you want to put it back in, just push on it hard enough to make it go through. i did this once back then when i thought my alternator went bad, but then tested out still good. so try this method and you won't have to take anything off.

 

I got the altenator without removing the half shaft. I did not squeeze it out between the half shaft. I removed it from the top. I did not take out the master cylinder.

1. Jack up the car and put it on jack stands. You don't have to remove the wheel. Remove the big plastic splash shield under the car.

2. Unbolt the upper altenator bracket ant take it out. Leave the bottom altenator bracket in place. Take out the altenator pin bolt and nut. Take out the altenator belt adjuster nut and altenator belt.

3. From under the car pull back the rubber cover on the altenator and unbolt the bolt in order to lift the 2 wires of the altenator. Squeeze the tab on the green circular P connector and pull it free from the altenator (do this from the top). The wire harness that is attached to the green circular P connector has a gray tab that is inserted in a square opening on the altenator. Use a really long needle nose plier to squeeze the gray tab and push it through the square opening.

4. Unbolt all the brackets and push aside all the hoses and wire harnesses around the top of the altenator area.

5. Unbolt the power steering hose. There are 2 bolts.

6. Have someone below the car pushing the altenator up and have the other person on top pulling it and wiggling it around to get it clear. You have to move it around quite a bit to get it to clear the Master Cylinder and the end of the fuel rail.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nb0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got the altenator without removing the half shaft. I did not squeeze it out between the half shaft. I removed it from the top. I did not take out the master cylinder.

1. Jack up the car and put it on jack stands. You don't have to remove the wheel. Remove the big plastic splash shield under the car.

2. Unbolt the upper altenator bracket ant take it out. Leave the bottom altenator bracket in place. Take out the altenator pin bolt and nut. Take out the altenator belt adjuster nut and altenator belt.

3. From under the car pull back the rubber cover on the altenator and unbolt the bolt in order to lift the 2 wires of the altenator. Squeeze the tab on the green circular P connector and pull it free from the altenator (do this from the top). The wire harness that is attached to the green circular P connector has a gray tab that is inserted in a square opening on the altenator. Use a really long needle nose plier to squeeze the gray tab and push it through the square opening.

4. Unbolt all the brackets and push aside all the hoses and wire harnesses around the top of the altenator area.

5. Unbolt the power steering hose. There are 2 bolts.

6. Have someone below the car pushing the altenator up and have the other person on top pulling it and wiggling it around to get it clear. You have to move it around quite a bit to get it to clear the Master Cylinder and the end of the fuel rail. </TD></TR></TABLE>and here you go

 

dude all you guys that removed the alternator by removing the half shaft are ssssttttttuuuuppppiiiiidddd. i've never heard of that!! I don't like to laugh at people but this shts hilarious one 12mm wrench, one 14mm wrench and a pry bar. w/o a/c even with you still don't have to disconnect the other belts to take off the alternator. dude i bet you if you charged to replace someones alt. you'd charge like $ 500.00....lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSR-TRBO-DA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude all you guys that removed the alternator by removing the half shaft are ssssttttttuuuuppppiiiiidddd. i've never heard of that!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

This is the method that most service manuals suggest.

 

But when you get paid by the job going by the book can sometimes cost you money.

Experience will result in faster jobs and more money. The book is just a guide on how its done. It doesn't mean that it is the ONLY way to get it done.

Try removing an alternator from a B16 CRX. That is a PITA.

 

Been there, done that... 3 times in a year... what a fricken pain in the ***...

 

I found it was easier just to remove the brake master cylinder and re-bleed brakes at the end. Sucked but got it all done in about 45 minutes.

 

If you remove the MC you have to bench bleed the MC and bleed the brakes on all 4 corners. You can get the altenator to clear the MC if you are patient and move it around while some one else supports the altenator from the bottom under the car.

I hope a moderator makes this a sticky because I did a great deal of research and most people say to take out the half shaft or unbolt the intermediate shaft bracket and oil filter then force it over the intermediate shaft or take out the MC.

 

On an integra the MC isn't needed to be removed.

On a b16 crx with a barely smashed frame rail. Thats another story. And bench bleeding I only do initially after that have never bench bled with no probs.

Sticky may not be neccessary but it should be linked into the faq section for sure.

Edit: I linked it on the 2nd page of the forum faq section.

 

don't know if u done it like this before. when i do it, i do it like a water pump/timing belt job. drop the upper and lower driver side mounts and tilt the motor down, remove the fork from the shocks and unbolt all necessary bolts and belts in the way. np for me 15-20 min job tops to take out alt.

 

nbo and i were able to remove the alternator from my G3 GS-R WITHOUT having to pull the--half shaft nor the master cylinder. both methods mentioned here are good ways to remove the alternator but, i don't think are the quickest nor the most efficient ways of just pulling the alternator out for replacement.

what we did helps with having two people one underneath the car supporting the alternator once its free from the upper/lower brackets then another person up top above the master cylinder on the drivers side of the vehicle. of course remove as much of the wiring/tubes/etc...and most importantly detach the high pressure hose for the power steering pump and all you have to replace is one tiny rubber o-ring gasket and then bleed the system by turning the wheel from side to side to get any air out and refill the pwr. steering fluid once you have the car down. remember alot of pwr. steering fluid will leak out so have rags ready or better yet find a little can/cup to catch all the fluid...we had to find out the hard way! the person below should turn the alternator so that its going upwards in a vertical position w/ the pulley side facing up then it will require both people to wiggle and avoid various blocking elements such as the bottom of the master cylinder and the sides of fuel rail by the intake manifold inorder for you to clear everything and remove the alternator. we should post up pics soon as i get my alternator rebuilt and back from the shop. i hope this helps out anyone that's looking to remove their alternator and avoid having to pull the driveshaft or the brake master cylinder.

thank you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nb0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Which lower beam/bar is it?

Is it the ROD, RR. BEAM PERFORMANCE (Illustration No. 5)?

Or is it the BEAM, RR. POWER STEERING (Illustration No. 3)?

http://www.hondapartsunlimited...dIrno=

--------------------------------------------------------------
Do you have to unbolt the catalyic converter (Illustration No. 3) from the exhaust manifold A pipe (Illustration No. 8)?

http://www.hondapartsunlimited...dIrno=
------------------------------------------------------------
Do you have to unbolt the half shaft support (Illustration No. 18) and flip it down?

http://www.hondapartsunlimited...dIrno=


</TD></TR></TABLE>

#5.

 

i removed mine through the top. i had to disconnect the top ps line from the pump, remove the strut bar, and move some wiring out of the way. i did it by myself. it's a tight fit but definitely possible. i think i had to take the fuel pressure regulator off the fuel rail but don't remember exactly.