Honda-Tech - Honda Forum Discussion
9/64 drill bit for pilot holes
9/64 drill bit for pilot holes
0 2016/11/17 16:39:13
I forgot to get a pic of the inside before replacing the baffle plate. But I used a very small bead of Hondabond between jam nuts and VC and between the baffle plate and VC before tightening everything down.
I forgot to get a pic of the inside before replacing the baffle plate. But I used a very small bead of Hondabond between jam nuts and VC and between the baffle plate and VC before tightening everything down.
0 2016/11/17 15:27:10
0 2016/11/17 15:26:51
Close-up before replacing the baffle plate
Close-up before replacing the baffle plate
0 2016/11/17 15:26:27
tapping holes for the baffle plate
tapping holes for the baffle plate
0 2016/11/17 15:13:12
Taped off the drill bit a little over 1/2in to drill the pilot holes for the tap
Taped off the drill bit a little over 1/2in to drill the pilot holes for the tap
0 2016/11/17 15:12:56
0 2016/11/17 15:12:41
0 2016/11/17 15:12:23
Here you can see once modified they were able to sit flush against the openings within the VC
Here you can see once modified they were able to sit flush against the openings within the VC
0 2016/11/17 15:12:07
0 2016/11/17 15:11:01
0 2016/11/17 15:10:49
The jam nuts had to be modified in order to accommodate the interior angles of the VC
The jam nuts had to be modified in order to accommodate the interior angles of the VC
0 2016/11/17 15:10:38
9/64 Drill bit to drill pilot holes for the tap
9/64 Drill bit to drill pilot holes for the tap
0 2016/11/17 15:05:11
10-24 Tap for the baffle plate screws
10-24 Tap for the baffle plate screws
0 2016/11/17 15:05:02
-10AN to 7/8-14 fuel fittings with rubber washers (definitely could've gone smaller on the 7/8 side but I was just trying to make sure I'd get full -10AN flow)
-10AN to 7/8-14 fuel fittings with rubber washers (definitely could've gone smaller on the 7/8 side but I was just trying to make sure I'd get full -10AN flow)
0 2016/11/17 15:04:52
7/8-14 aluminum jam nuts
7/8-14 aluminum jam nuts
0 2016/11/17 15:04:40
0 2016/11/17 15:04:28
3/8in screws to reconnect the baffle plate
3/8in screws to reconnect the baffle plate
0 2016/11/17 15:04:19
This is from the other chamber and was much easier... very little material had to be removed here iirc it was just a single small nub.
This is from the other chamber and was much easier... very little material had to be removed here iirc it was just a single small nub.
0 2016/11/17 15:03:43
Still in the PCV area. This is where the small "wall" was removed
Still in the PCV area. This is where the small "wall" was removed
0 2016/11/17 15:03:27
Also from the area next to the OEM PCV valve. The grinder is directly above the nub which was removed and then filled via a screw from the outside.
Also from the area next to the OEM PCV valve. The grinder is directly above the nub which was removed and then filled via a screw from the outside.
0 2016/11/17 15:03:12
Here and in the 3 pics that follow I needed to remove material, a small "wall", and 2 nubs from the inside of the VC in order to accommodate the large jam nuts. This pic is taken from the section directly to the left of the opening for the OEM PCV valve.
Here and in the 3 pics that follow I needed to remove material, a small "wall", and 2 nubs from the inside of the VC in order to accommodate the large jam nuts. This pic is taken from the section directly to the left of the opening for the OEM PCV valve.
0 2016/11/17 15:02:57
This pic is to reference the position of the holes in the baffle plate vs the holes for the fittings. This part is VERY IMPORTANT. The fittings need to be positioned in opposite chambers from the holes in the baffle plate. Which will force the gasses to travel the full length of the baffle chambers before entering to hoses leading to your catch/breather tank. Otherwise you'll just be blowing oil directly out of your VC into your catch/breather tanks.
This pic is to reference the position of the holes in the baffle plate vs the holes for the fittings. This part is VERY IMPORTANT. The fittings need to be positioned in opposite chambers from the holes in the baffle plate. Which will force the gasses to travel the full length of the baffle chambers before entering to hoses leading to your catch/breather tank. Otherwise you'll just be blowing oil directly out of your VC into your catch/breather tanks.
0 2016/11/17 15:02:35
Then I used a 7/8in hole bit to drill out the holes for the -AN fittings
Then I used a 7/8in hole bit to drill out the holes for the -AN fittings
0 2016/11/17 15:02:16
First I had to use a sanding disc on the die grinder to grind off the rivet heads in order to remove the baffle plate
First I had to use a sanding disc on the die grinder to grind off the rivet heads in order to remove the baffle plate
0 2016/11/17 14:58:37
And here I just used zip-ties to hold each of the tanks together, which made it much easier to mount them on the firewall
And here I just used zip-ties to hold each of the tanks together, which made it much easier to mount them on the firewall
0 2016/11/17 14:56:07
Stainless mesh for top
Stainless mesh for top
0 2016/11/17 14:55:00
Here you can see the stainless scouring pad material used in the main baffle chamber.
Here you can see the stainless scouring pad material used in the main baffle chamber.
0 2016/11/17 14:54:45
I forget the size of these fittings?...maybe 3/4in npt? Whatever it is, it fits VERY snuggly into -10AN stainless hose from Vibrant.
I forget the size of these fittings?...maybe 3/4in npt? Whatever it is, it fits VERY snuggly into -10AN stainless hose from Vibrant.
0 2016/11/17 14:54:32
These are 3 piece/chamber tanks. The middle has the main baffle material (stainless brillo), the top has an air filter material (charcoal filter), and the bottom is just a drainage tank (with a 5/16 nut welded on and plugged w/bolt and rubber washer, for emptying it)
These are 3 piece/chamber tanks. The middle has the main baffle material (stainless brillo), the top has an air filter material (charcoal filter), and the bottom is just a drainage tank (with a 5/16 nut welded on and plugged w/bolt and rubber washer, for emptying it)
0 2016/11/17 14:53:51
9/64 bit to drill pilot holes for the tap
9/64 bit to drill pilot holes for the tap
0 2016/11/17 14:40:31
0 2016/11/17 14:31:55
Then used a 7/8in bit to drill out the holes for the fittings.
Then used a 7/8in bit to drill out the holes for the fittings.
0 2016/11/17 14:31:11
0 2016/11/17 14:30:51
0 2016/11/17 14:30:34
Took this pic to note the position of the holes in the baffle plate vs the holes in the actual VC that I drilled. This is VERY IMPORTANT... The holes you make in the VC have to be in the chambers opposite the holes in the baffle plate so that the gasses are forced through the baffle chambers. Otherwise you'd just be blowing oil out of your VC and into your catch tanks.
Took this pic to note the position of the holes in the baffle plate vs the holes in the actual VC that I drilled. This is VERY IMPORTANT... The holes you make in the VC have to be in the chambers opposite the holes in the baffle plate so that the gasses are forced through the baffle chambers. Otherwise you'd just be blowing oil out of your VC and into your catch tanks.
0 2016/11/17 14:30:15
I used a sanding disc on the angle grinder to grind off the tops of the rivets in order to remove the baffle plate.
I used a sanding disc on the angle grinder to grind off the tops of the rivets in order to remove the baffle plate.
0 2016/11/17 14:29:56
And here I just used zip-ties to hold each of the tanks together, which made it much easier to mount them on the firewall.
And here I just used zip-ties to hold each of the tanks together, which made it much easier to mount them on the firewall.
0 2016/11/17 14:16:19
Stainless mesh for top
Stainless mesh for top
0 2016/11/17 14:14:46
Here you can see the stainless scouring pad material used in the main baffle chamber.
Here you can see the stainless scouring pad material used in the main baffle chamber.
0 2016/11/17 14:14:32