Sounds good.... just keep that in mind if you run into problems.

What are the dimensions of the sump? IE: Lenght & Width

 

its about 5" wide, 2.5" deep and about 20" long. In the tank I only drilled three 2.5" diameter holes toards the back of the tank. That way fuel comes in, but it will not easylly go back out.

 

do you remember what type of metal and the thickness is?

 

on a daily dont u risk bottoming out on that.. or is it in line with the tires?

 

the sump is .050" 304L stainless. I made it on a metal brake.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shortyz21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">on a daily dont u risk bottoming out on that.. or is it in line with the tires?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im not worried about bottoming it out, cuz its not that much lower than the tank its self. And my car is higher in the rear that its in the front, so the lip and bumper would go, way before the sump would touch the ground.

 

Well yesterday, I got everything done and took the car for a drive. I went up hill and down hill (really steep hills) and it performend verry well. I need to do some tuning, but so far so good.

BTW there were no leaks at all, anywhere in the new fuel system. I was glad I didn't have to fix anything. Well except the oil leak, lol. I forgot to put the dip stick back in after I checked the oil. lol. First time I done that, boy does it make a mess. lol

 

trust me, i a year or so you will have fuel pump problems. my pump is not sitting quite as high as yours is but i still had a problem with it. slowly over time your pump will strain to pump that fuel becuase it is sitting so high and forward of the sump feed line. it may run fine now but 2 years after i ran mine, my pump went out. it wouldnt barely pump fuel. i had it sitting slightly higher than the sump and the y block went way too high. it had to go up from the sump to y block then back down to my pump. now its a direct shot of my 2 -8 to a y fitting to a -10 into the pump with probably a 2-3" height difference. but not much. ill see how that goes now. hopefully a lot better.
also, try to run at least a -6 return. the oem is not sufficient. the fuel will build up at the return and cant return enough fuel that it needs to.
you can not compare your setup versus a race car's setup. they have a totally different use than you. you will be driving it as a daily driver, putting the pump in diffrent conditions and longer conditions than a race car would. drag cars are only on probably 30 seconds at a time where you are driving in different loads in all directions for at least 5 minutes at a time. i know it may be a pain to redo it, but better now than later.

 

good ****

 

with ^^ in mind i would say just relocate it a little lower and make a skid plate for it. it would add a little piece of mind.

theoretically as the pump begins to die(over time) it will drop the pressure, or at least the pressure at high load, which could lead to lean conditions and engine damage. in theory.

 

ok maybe a dumb question but how do you weld the sump on the tank i mean without it all going bbbbbbbbbbbooooooooooooooooooommmmmmmmmmmm
its a given that you drain fuel but theres still vapors and such

 

the last sump i welded in this is how the owner made sure that the vapors were cleared. first the tank was dropped and drained. then it was washed with soap and water. dried. then washed again. then it was put into the actuated hot tank, for a period of time(don't know how long). then washed again. then solvent washed again(cold). then washed and dried. the owner made the cut for the sump. i just did the fitting and welding.


for my motorcycle that devoloped a crack here is what I did. since it is original 72 paint that i didn't want to remove it(the hot tank would have stripped it). i took the petcock off, then i washed it multiple times, letting it dry fully each time. then i filled the tank with water so that there was just a little air bubble where i needed to weld.

some people will never ever cut and weld a tank unless its gone through the above plus sat cleaned like that for a month after.

kinda scary business, welding on tanks... i have some horror stories i could tell ya haha.

 

I took mine out and washed it with plain water for about 1/2 hr. then I let it dry and make sure that I could not smell any fuel. Then I welded the sump on it with no problems what so ever.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onefstek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I took mine out and washed it with plain water for about 1/2 hr. then I let it dry and make sure that I could not smell any fuel. Then I welded the sump on it with no problems what so ever. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you blow it out with compressed air, or just let it dry naturally?

 

looks good man

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SockEG6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Did you blow it out with compressed air, or just let it dry naturally?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I just drained the watter out of it and let it dry for about 2 hrs.

 

Loogs good stefan!

 

well, i woudn't do that again. yo have seen the process i went through in regards to welding and cutting a tank. the reason why is because i have had co-workers and friends install sumps or fix holes and damn near blew themselves up. same thing, washed out like you did... left it overnight, then went to weld a hole. it was like butane in a coke can. there was a little jet flame comming from the hole and the filler hole. could have gone worse.