Vented Valve Cover Post up some pics!
#276
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Re: (SwappedTURBOegg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SwappedTURBOegg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sick car. hope u get atleast nines </TD></TR></TABLE>
x2
x2
#279
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Re: Re: (B20luda)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B20luda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what color is that i like.... </TD></TR></TABLE>
talkin to me
Its the closest matched color i could get to password:jdm bronze. I called the guy to have them powdercoat it along with there strut bars so that it would match perfectly but was gonna be a hassle so just tried to match it myself. Turned out almost dead on
talkin to me
Its the closest matched color i could get to password:jdm bronze. I called the guy to have them powdercoat it along with there strut bars so that it would match perfectly but was gonna be a hassle so just tried to match it myself. Turned out almost dead on
#283
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Re: (iBrandon)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iBrandon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Materials for box $30
12 -12 weld Bungs $100-$120
3 Air filters $30-$40
20 ft ss line $130-$150
12 -12 hose fittings $175-$200 (depending on brand you buy)
Total: $475-$540 for whole setup give or take without labor....This is for 4 ventilation fittings on the valve cover...price may vary for -10 and the number of fittings off the valve cover...but yes, its not cheap ha!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Definately not cheap. I just spent about 600 bucks on a very similar setup that I am building.
12 -12 weld Bungs $100-$120
3 Air filters $30-$40
20 ft ss line $130-$150
12 -12 hose fittings $175-$200 (depending on brand you buy)
Total: $475-$540 for whole setup give or take without labor....This is for 4 ventilation fittings on the valve cover...price may vary for -10 and the number of fittings off the valve cover...but yes, its not cheap ha!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Definately not cheap. I just spent about 600 bucks on a very similar setup that I am building.
#284
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Re: Vented Valve Cover Post up some pics! (BB6-213)
Isn't it problematic that you are going from the front of the motor on the H head? Those will not be behind baffle plates.
It seems like every properly set up race H motor has 2 large baffles on the back just above the baffles (like JoJo's Castrol ProFront RSX with an H22 - http://www.keenink.com/pdf/rsxdrag.pdf)
Here is my setup:
It seems like every properly set up race H motor has 2 large baffles on the back just above the baffles (like JoJo's Castrol ProFront RSX with an H22 - http://www.keenink.com/pdf/rsxdrag.pdf)
Here is my setup:
#285
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Re: Re: (Mr HYDE)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr HYDE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what about just 1 vent off the cover. i got the stef catch can for nothing and the line for cheap so i just did one.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I really like that setup . And yes one is better then none!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I really like that setup . And yes one is better then none!
#286
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...
Alot of nice setups in here. I will post pictures of mine upon completion.
Just incase anyone is interested. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2078408
Just incase anyone is interested. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2078408
#288
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#291
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Re: ... (tmac007)
Wild looking manifold lol... you got any supports holding that thing up? Nice valve cover, someone spent some time painting that.
#292
Re: ... (tmac007)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tmac007 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The problem with putting them on the back of a B series VC is when you accelerate, the oil moves to the back of the cylinder head, and is more likely to go into your tubes since there is no baffling there. Did you add baffles?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The problem with putting them on the back of a B series VC is when you accelerate, the oil moves to the back of the cylinder head, and is more likely to go into your tubes since there is no baffling there. Did you add baffles?
#294
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Re: ... (DavidR)
Thanks for the responses on the manifold... Its my first one so im sure that it could've turned out better.. And ya, you can barely see it but theres a brace that bolts up to the factory AC bracket mounting place to hold the gt42 in place.
As for the baffles, Im not to worried about a little bit of oil spilling into the lines. the catch can is baffled and has a drain back to the block.
The car has made 438 at 7000rpm with 330 tq on 22 psi on a mustang dyno. Should work good once we work out some of the bugs. Hoping for 700+
As for the baffles, Im not to worried about a little bit of oil spilling into the lines. the catch can is baffled and has a drain back to the block.
The car has made 438 at 7000rpm with 330 tq on 22 psi on a mustang dyno. Should work good once we work out some of the bugs. Hoping for 700+
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Re: (nitroice40)
I'm running a B20 bottom end with a B16 head and I was just at a road course a couple of days ago and at the end of my sessions I opened my hood and noticed oil was running up my oil dip stick and seeping through the pressed part of the dip stick. Was wondering if doing this mod would help me or not? Would one or two be recommended? Thanks for any info.
#297
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Re: (champwhiteEG6)
Easiest way to check is to use a crankcase pressure gauge that uses like a rubber fitting you stuff in your dip stick tube. Works like a champ and tells you right off the bat if you have positive pressure, at idle! More than likely thats your problem though. Two is optimum but if for some reason you cant then like was stated one is better than none. -10 an fittings would be the smallest i would go
#298
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Re:
here is one my buddy just did for me.....sorry no pics of it on a motor.
Question though, we have a couple more and were wondering what a good price
to sell the for would be.