ive got a mild steel prebent 8pt for my eg civic.

im in the middle of prepping the surfaces to weld and came across a question. the bottom of my main hoop is right up against the door sills and i cant get a bead around it. can i bend part of my 6x6 plate and weld it half to the floorpan and half to the door sill, then just bring the bead up the side of the hoop a little where the hoop meets the newly bent plate?? sorry if its a little confusing.


oh yeah, also the door bar will point inward at the bottom a little bit (maybe 4 inches from the door sill) if i want to get my door closed. is that kosher or do i have to cut out some of the plastic in the door so it can close and have the bar completely parallel with the door sill. thanks

 

i think it depends what spec you are building it to. what kind of racing are you doing? just look up the spec for whatever racing you are doing and follow their guidelines. pretty straight forward.

 

Heres some pic of mine me and my dad did last year we also bent the plate worked great and if its done right i wouldnt worry about the track saying anything unless your running a funny car lol hope this helps

 

the car will see weekend use and random events at the track for drag either radial power or 11.5 index as well as test and tunes. it is set up to make low 500hp range and am anticipating running high 10s at around 130mph. i just dont want to go through the trouble and have it get turned away at the dragstrip.


the pictures did help, i see you bent the plates. you were also able to get a bead all around the base of the main hoop, i wont be able to because its right up against the door sill.

 

that cage may not pass nhra spec because the rear bars do not go to the floor. as for not being able to weld all around at the floor plate, you are then required to gusset the joint.

 

we looked in the nhra rule book and didnt find anything about it having to go to the floor but we will find out here when i get to the track this year

 

in the 2010 rule book it states full body FWD cars must weld the D bar braces from the cross bar to a 1 5/8ths .118 "cross member" welded to the sills via 6x6x1/8th plates... instead of just using 6x6x1/8th plates to the floor/exhaust tunnel.

kinda sucks but oh well....

 

do you need the D bars to pass tech? i will not be breaking below 10.00 seconds or over 135mph.

if so, i wonder if i can run that 1 5/8ths bar between my main hoop bars since i will likely have the main hoop and gussets welded to the sill plate...


this seems to be a little taboo, im finding it hard to find information some of what i do find is contradictory

 

if u wont be over 135mph or under 10.0 just install a bar. no d bars required on a roll bar.

 

nice, thats what i thought i just wanted to check. id love to break both of those marks but its not likely. im finally done prepping surfaces and cleaning off the undercoating, so im gonna try and get this together this week

 

do the plates that i weld the gussets to also have to be 36 square inches like the floor plates?

 

bump!

my plates are downand i just need to get this gusset thing situated so i can go ahead and weld in the hoop and other bars

 

what gussets? what are you building the cage for?????

 

its a 6pt bar in my eg coupe. i will et under 11.49 this year.

the main hoop is right up against the sills on the bottom, and i was led to believe i should weld a plate to the sill in addition to the plate on the floor and gusset the main hoop the the sill plate where i cant get around it at the bottom to weld to the floor plate