Got an s+w 8 point kit. I guess the first thing to do is possition the main hoop to determine where the plates should go? How does htis look? It's a 1991 civic hatch btw.

 

Looks like the feet may need to go back just a lil bit but other than that is looks great.

Keep up the good work.

 

i'm interested in seeing how this install turns out... the only advice i can give having never installed a cage before would be to get yourself the sanctioning bodies rule book that you wish to race in, just to make sure that you install it legally

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16AHondaSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks like the feet may need to go back just a lil bit but other than that is looks great.

Keep up the good work.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How far should the feet go back? Should the top be moved back too? Should it be more hidden by the b-pillar?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speeddave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm interested in seeing how this install turns out... the only advice i can give having never installed a cage before would be to get yourself the sanctioning bodies rule book that you wish to race in, just to make sure that you install it legally </TD></TR></TABLE>
It's just a play car that got too quick. I think they go by the nhra rules, I'll see if I can get one. Don't have current rule book, got one of my dads old ones.

 

Just to be sure, are these the most current rules?
http://www.nhrasportcompact.co...s.zip

 

put the six by six plates on the butted up against the rear seat support and weld the feet in the middle of the plates with a slight angle to follow the b pillar

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d15nonvtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">put the six by six plates on the butted up against the rear seat support and weld the feet in the middle of the plates with a slight angle to follow the b pillar</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok thanks. That's what I was thinking just seemed a little too far back at first.

 

ive done 3 s&w cages so far, so if you need any help let me know

 

make sure your tubing notches arent thin walled and dont weld the plates in until you have the cage all tack'd toether. otherwise you wont be able to weld the tops of your notches

 

updates?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speeddave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">updates?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ready to get started now, ran brackets at Import Day yesterday. I'll get started on it soon. (hopefully)

 

no worries, just looking to see how it turns out

 

let me know of any other questions or concerns you have

 

You need to build some nice rocker boxes that tie in the side frame rails and rear crossmember. If you put a plate on the floor, if you flip, it will go straight through.

 

Changed my mind on the rollbar. Looks like it may get into the 10s, and need a cage. I'll see if i can sell it to someone local.

Got a 10point cage kit from Jegs.

Got the plates formed to floor and tacked in place for the main hoop.

Any tips on marking the ends of the main hoop to trim them to fit flush?

 

if there is gap on the bar where it meets the plate. the angle that the gap is. is what you need to trim away on the the otherside to make it flat on the plate. or sit it in there and run a sharpie around where it touches and slowly grind away

 

there are no frame rails

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> If you put a plate on the floor, if you flip, it will go straight through.</TD></TR></TABLE>
YEah if the floor is rusty as hell. Takes some power to smash a square piece of steel through the floorboard.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by postman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or sit it in there and run a sharpie around where it touches and slowly grind away</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what I did, used a short piece of pencil though.

Now how about the rear braces. Where should they run down to? I'm thinking B.

 

yeah , id run it to point "B".. ive done that on several cars, and it seems a lil more safer with it going to the framerail .

 

Go just a little farther back from 'B'. There is a little flat spot there already.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tepid1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go just a little farther back from 'B'. There is a little flat spot there already.</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly where we put the plate.

me and my friend did a S&W 8 point in his 91 hatch. what a pain in the *****. some advice that you may already know: make sure you scrape off ALL undercoating in any of the areas your welding.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CoreyR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> make sure you scrape off ALL undercoating in any of the areas your welding. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep gotta have the metal clean. It's hard to weld sound deadener.

The directions that came witht he kit say they should be welded as close to the rear shock mounts as possible.

The nhra rules say:
All required rear braces must
be installed at a minimum angle of 30 degrees from vertical

So my next question: What is 30 degrees from vertical? Is it different to 30 degrees from horizontal?

 

take a chissle to the floor to remove the sound densening. then grind to bare mertal. I wish i had my pictures of mine. my computer crashed and lost all the pictures. I put it in a 96 coup. totally custom measured bent and welded myself. How much did you pay for the jegs 10 point? I had to re-enforce where i mounted to the rear strut tower with angle iron welded to make a U Box to fit where you had A marked on th rear. All the interior fits back in like stock fit. I'll try to get you some pictures.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CoreyR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> make sure you scrape off ALL undercoating in any of the areas your welding. </TD></TR></TABLE>

he is referring to the undercoating on the bottomside of the car.

if you dont remove it before youweld, it will smoke and possibly catch on fire.

ask me how i know