What is the best way to resurface small flanges like the 5 bolt downpipe flange and bov flange so it is perfectly flat and not warped? thanks

 

no a belt sander .. 120 grit .. works great ..

 

Cheap and effective.

 

20" face grinder works great for us

 

I prefer to prevent such warpage to begin with...and then not have to straighten it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Engloid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I prefer to prevent such warpage to begin with...and then not have to straighten it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

True. so i guess a belt sander will do the job or a disc sander as long as i hold it flat

 

Sometimes its very hard, when i make my intake manifolds, the flanges are 1/2" 6061, i bolt them down to a 2" chunk of steel the whole time when welding, and even after all that, they still bow ever so slightly, belt sander, surface grinder, or even a Mill would work.....

 

i don't know how important "perfect" flatness is with this flange. but a beltsander is taking a small risk, or take it to a machine shop for a perfectly flat surface, plus the cutters make a good surface for the gasket to "grab" onto

 

what exactly do you think they will do at a machine shop to make it "perfectly" flat? Money says that they would put it on a belt sander anyway. You would just get guaranteed accuracy as an extra. But if you own a machinist straight edge (not that expensive) then you can measure flatness yourself.

 

What Do You Suggest For Previenting Warpage? I Am Having A Hard Time Keeping My Head Flanges Straight When I'm Building Manifolds. Any Ideas Or Suggestions Would Be Greatly Appreciated

 

lets say i am making a downpipe. should i bolt the flange on my turbo and welded my pipe on to the flange while it is bolted up to the turbo. Will that prevent warpage?

 

get all midieval and use a flat file, that will ensure you don't fukc it up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Big_Bird &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what exactly do you think they will do at a machine shop to make it "perfectly" flat? Money says that they would put it on a belt sander anyway.</TD></TR></TABLE>

true, but what i was imagining when they said belt sander was one for wood not a full size beltsander used for surfacing heads and the like, it would just be difficult to get a true surface with that. having a machinists straight edge would be great, but unless you have one they are fairly expensive for a quality piece, but then you would have it for damn near forever.


it might work to bolt it to the turbo...you could also try welding it on some wet rags underneath or, i think its 3m, sells stuff called heatdam. or you could weld say maybe 3 or 4 coins then let it cool to the touch

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oxSLEEPERxo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lets say i am making a downpipe. should i bolt the flange on my turbo and welded my pipe on to the flange while it is bolted up to the turbo. Will that prevent warpage?</TD></TR></TABLE>