redoing brake lines? first timer, pointers please!
ok so i bought a flaring tool for 60 bucks and i have a problem making the flare straight, its like going to the side. any advise?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For cutting, you can use your standard tube cutter, but make sure you debur and camfer your ends before flaring.</TD></TR></TABLE>
^^this statement is the solution to your flares coming out uneven. a tubing cutter hardens the metal around the cut making it really difficult to make the flare much less have it come out even. file the tubing down like an extra millimeter after you make the cut. then debur the insides and outsides of the tubing with needle files. its VERY VERY important that the final face of the cut is as flat and striaght as possible before you start making that flare. otherwise your flares will come out lopsided.
^^this statement is the solution to your flares coming out uneven. a tubing cutter hardens the metal around the cut making it really difficult to make the flare much less have it come out even. file the tubing down like an extra millimeter after you make the cut. then debur the insides and outsides of the tubing with needle files. its VERY VERY important that the final face of the cut is as flat and striaght as possible before you start making that flare. otherwise your flares will come out lopsided.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LilCivic04 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok so i bought a flaring tool for 60 bucks and i have a problem making the flare straight, its like going to the side. any advise?</TD></TR></TABLE>
usually for hard line I use a hacksaw to cut, then a good file to square and smooth the cut out, then a little tapererd reamer to deburr the inside of the tubing. Like one of these here http://www.ares-server.com/Are...14462 Also, you might have the tubing sticking too far out of the holder which might be making the tube flare crooked. for the most part, if the flare is just a LITTLE bit imperfect, you can just tighten that sucker onto the part, and it can fix minor imperfections
usually for hard line I use a hacksaw to cut, then a good file to square and smooth the cut out, then a little tapererd reamer to deburr the inside of the tubing. Like one of these here http://www.ares-server.com/Are...14462 Also, you might have the tubing sticking too far out of the holder which might be making the tube flare crooked. for the most part, if the flare is just a LITTLE bit imperfect, you can just tighten that sucker onto the part, and it can fix minor imperfections
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brightside »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you might have the tubing sticking too far out of the holder which might be making the tube flare crooked. </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's the problem I had when I did mine.
you might have the tubing sticking too far out of the holder which might be making the tube flare crooked. </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's the problem I had when I did mine.
usually the flare tools come with instructions on how far to stick out the tubing. I think for 45deg double flares (like OEM), its usually the depth of the button tool that squashes the tubing to that diamond shape. kinda hard to explain. on 37deg flare for AN fittings, I usually stick out the tube about .0625"~.125". this should help with the 45deg double flares: http://www.carcraft.com/howto/50919/
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