I don't have much to say. Yes, it's from steel and welds are ugly as hell. The guy who welded it does not give a f* about the look

CBR 929RR, for ZC motor:









equal length, almost straight (88° angle).

 

cool **** but my only quesion is how are you going to get both sides to work at the same time. what i mean is when you seperate them like that there is nothing connecting them in the middle anymore. im curious to so see what you come up with

 

for choosing the different route ( with the mild steel ) . Get them coated though, so they will not heat up. You can get the insides coated to, so that way the inside air will stay cool.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ferio 95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cool **** but my only quesion is how are you going to get both sides to work at the same time. what i mean is when you seperate them like that there is nothing connecting them in the middle anymore. im curious to so see what you come up with </TD></TR></TABLE>

Originally they come apart. Chafts are connected with a bolt. So i will put an extension between. This is the smallest problem here. I will have to have the fuel rail extended in the middle.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> for choosing the different route ( with the mild steel ) . Get them coated though, so they will not heat up. You can get the insides coated to, so that way the inside air will stay cool. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Which coating do you suggest? I was thinking about tin coating just to prevent rusting. Any other idea?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX-ZC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Which coating do you suggest? I was thinking about tin coating just to prevent rusting. Any other idea?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Right now, all I can say is search for motorcycle exhaust coating. That would be your best bet. I could look tonight for you, I know a lot of bikes get there pipes coated inside and out. There basically warm when riding, and cool in 2 seconds after you turn the bike off.

 

I'd just paint it or have it powdercoated. Theres air moving fast enough through it that heat wont be that big of an issue anyways.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flashmn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd just paint it or have it powdercoated. Theres air moving fast enough through it that heat wont be that big of an issue anyways.</TD></TR></TABLE>

But the metal will heat up fast and it will get really hot. Atleast get a hondata gasket, or one just like it.

http://www.rpiracing.com sells the gasket for a good price, and John is a great guy

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX-ZC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Originally they come apart. Chafts are connected with a bolt. So i will put an extension between. This is the smallest problem here. I will have to have the fuel rail extended in the middle. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I have the same set of itbs right here next to me, but the reason i asked you that weas because once seperated there is nothing connecting them as far as the lthrottle cable goes. Meaning only have of it will be able to open. What i though of was just welding on a small lip to reach across the gap to catch the other side

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But the metal will heat up fast and it will get really hot. Atleast get a hondata gasket, or one just like it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, it wont get _that_ hot and the air inside will still be relatively cool.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

But the metal will heat up fast and it will get really hot. Atleast get a hondata gasket, or one just like it.

http://www.rpiracing.com sells the gasket for a good price, and John is a great guy</TD></TR></TABLE>

From what material is it made?

 

here's a quick one:

 

You think the throttleplate synchronization will hold with a connection like that? I'd try to adapt the weber linkage kit to that if I was you, might work alot better.

 

You are not me, this will work just fine. I don't bother myself with this, there are other more important things that might not work I just showed the solution for this problem. It's probably not the best, but good enough. We'll see

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX-ZC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

From what material is it made?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Talk to ComposiMo on this board, he will help you out. Tell him 90blackcrx sent you

 

thats very interesting. hope all works out

 

Thats not going to be nearly enugh to keep both sides synced. I would cut some strait spacers for the original bolt locations that kept the thottle bodies together.

Looks much straiter to the ports than keeping them together though.

Make sure and tune them with a murcury sync. board. The car will run much better!

 

The spacing of the head ports to the runners is perfect isnt it ?

Thats nuts.

 

well the cool thing with the honda ITB's is once you space out the middle like that they line up perfect. the only thing is to get them in sync but i think he's got it for the most part

 

Thing i hated about the ZC was the poor port matching on the intakes and exhaust do some porting and that **** will pull

Nice work

 

Let us know how much power it makes..