Honda Motor in a Crawler

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Old 07-24-2008, 12:13 PM
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Default Re: Honda Motor in a Crawler (K.O.R.E.)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by K.O.R.E. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">since we won't be able to disconnect the front or rear d-shafts.

Or at least I haven't came up with a good way to disconnect the drive shafts yet. Any ideas on that?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Have you guys tried making a full sized version of a dig assembly like those used in rc crawlers?
Just build it in its own box so it can have a driver selectable engaged(4wd)-neutral(free wheel2wd)-locked(dragging the tires). They are not that complicated. Making it reliable could be an issue. Shiftng it when it is bound up will need some leverage.

Old 07-24-2008, 06:26 PM
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Default Re: Honda Motor in a Crawler (_BEN_)

In the F.I. forum there is the 500whp supercharger thread. You could go a little less aggressive and use a modded M60 (or just do the M90). Roger was saying it got 8psi INSTANTLY, and at that it made ~290whp on a 1.6L. Pretty crazy. With a 2-2.4L K-series it would be a nearly bolton affair, and make far more HP if you used an M112. Otherwise you could use just a regular JRSC kit, or a smaller turbo. A divided-housing GT28R would be good for 250-300whp, and spool like mad.

One thing I've wondered is if you could actually mount the Honda FWD motor/tranny sideways in a chassis, lock the stock diff using a spool, then use a very high-geared (nearly 1:1) and larger tires. From the spool's point of veiw, it doesn't matter if all the power goes out one side, as long as its not a cheesy spool (like a welded stock diff). You'd probably want nearly solid mounts and to use a tranny with a half/intermediate shaft (keep the diff spline area from any movement). Or you could be the first to make a B2Hydramatic adapter.
Old 07-24-2008, 07:24 PM
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Default Re: Honda Motor in a Crawler (HiProfile)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
One thing I've wondered is if you could actually mount the Honda FWD motor/tranny sideways in a chassis, lock the stock diff using a spool, then use a very high-geared (nearly 1:1) and larger tires. From the spool's point of veiw, it doesn't matter if all the power goes out one side, as long as its not a cheesy spool (like a welded stock diff). You'd probably want nearly solid mounts and to use a tranny with a half/intermediate shaft (keep the diff spline area from any movement). Or you could be the first to make a B2Hydramatic adapter. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't see any reason why you couldn't. What are you refering too with the "very high geared"? He's going to want more than 5.13 gears (axle) to get enough torque to spin big meats.

I don't think he would need to use an int. shaft either. Most factory transfer cases (new process) use nearly identical bearings as the honda diffs. After all, it's not like theres going to be much torsional loading by driveshafts that wouldn't be there with a factory axle.

Build it and post pics!
Old 07-28-2008, 06:48 AM
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in for results
Old 07-29-2008, 09:51 AM
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Default Re: (eg crunkmonster)

have you checked out the laterst CRAWL mag they got a buggy real clean chassis their running a complete ZC motor with the stock honda auto trans with a 4.33 final drive, on built toy axles 5.29's with some longfields in them on 39" bfg KRAWLERS rig looks sick and performs sick and its only on a stock NA ZC. dont really need to much power to crawl imo
Old 07-31-2008, 06:18 AM
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Default Re: (oldskoolda9)

I meant low-geared since you'd have 2 final-drive diffs in the situation, if using a Honda FWD tranny sideways with a rear axle. A 2:1 rear axle would make the actual FD of a DX tranny 8.05:1. A B16 tranny would be insane at that FD ratio, even in a crawler. Top-gear redline at 65mph...

The auto version may be a good idea. With a very high overall FD and a converter with a higher stall speed would send tons of torque to the wheels. An auto K24 motor would be killer in that situation.
Old 07-31-2008, 08:31 AM
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Default Re: (HiProfile)

I would do a k24 out of the CRV...
Old 07-31-2008, 04:04 PM
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Default Re: (HiProfile)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I meant low-geared since you'd have 2 final-drive diffs in the situation, if using a Honda FWD tranny sideways with a rear axle. A 2:1 rear axle would make the actual FD of a DX tranny 8.05:1. A B16 tranny would be insane at that FD ratio, even in a crawler. Top-gear redline at 65mph...

The auto version may be a good idea. With a very high overall FD and a converter with a higher stall speed would send tons of torque to the wheels. An auto K24 motor would be killer in that situation.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't think he's looking to do highway runs with this tube buggy

FWIW, some crawlers have doublers, even with 4:1 transfer cases. Thats 8:1 just in the transfer case, not including a 5.XX+ axle ratio, and thats even with V8 torque.

He's going to want to be geared low enough to be able to crawl 5-10mph around peak torque 5-7 grand.
Old 08-04-2008, 11:12 AM
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use a k24. a built K24 on ITBs will put out over 300 Naturally Aspirated and the torque will be more widely available and there faster. If using the stock K series tranny you can buy an mFactory 6.33 Final Drive for $750 Here
Old 08-04-2008, 03:13 PM
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Default Re: (JDMBoostedDA)

We've already picked up a B18 locally....went throught it with new gaskets.

Right now, we're working on the exhaust manifold. Should be cutting one out of 3/8" soon.
Old 08-05-2008, 03:52 PM
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b18 should be plenty!! so what drivetrain and axles are you gonna run on the rig and how about tires??
Old 08-05-2008, 07:28 PM
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Default Re: (oldskoolda9)

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/sho...buggy

That should help you.
Old 08-15-2008, 10:38 AM
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Default Chassis

Here's the chassis that we've started to design. I still need to finish out the front clip...I'll add a small front stinger that ties into the shock hoops & a couple of 'hood' tubes. In the front will be a small fuel cell & some storage area under the hood.








Old 08-15-2008, 11:57 AM
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Nice. You guys should use a narrowed ridgeline body.

Just throwing that out there.
Old 08-16-2008, 08:53 PM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ATYPR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.rhino-offroad.com/p....html



• RTV 2FS frame
• Dual seats
2.0 liter DOHC 4 cylinder Honda engine
• 146 HP / 135 lb/ft torque
• 4-speed automatic transmission
• 60 mph top speed
• Rhino rock-crawling shifter
• Ford 9” axles with winch connect
• 2” nitrogen gas shocks
• 14” shock travel
• 37” Procomp X-Terrain tires
• 15” beedlock wheels
• Front air locker with compressor
• 5-point racing harness (2)
• Dual independent brake cylinders
• 4-wheel disc brakes
</TD></TR></TABLE>

why do they have a b20 in it? (can tell its not a k20 from the horse/tq numbers) when they went all out with the other ****, ford 9" rear ends arent cheap, beadlocks arent necessarily the least epxensive thing there is either.

plus honda motors arent all that great
Old 08-17-2008, 09:27 AM
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Default Re: (i drive a honda)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by i drive a honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

why do they have a b20 in it? (can tell its not a k20 from the horse/tq numbers) when they went all out with the other ****, ford 9" rear ends arent cheap, beadlocks arent necessarily the least epxensive thing there is either.

plus honda motors arent all that great</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why spend more $ than needed when the B20 is more than enough?

Ford 9's - because it's the most popular axle other than the D60 for crawlers. (parts)
beadlocks - because every crawler runs them.

If you think that rig is "all out" then you havn't seen very many.
Old 08-17-2008, 09:43 AM
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Default Re: (i drive a honda)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by i drive a honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

why do they have a b20 in it? (can tell its not a k20 from the horse/tq numbers) when they went all out with the other ****, ford 9" rear ends arent cheap, beadlocks arent necessarily the least epxensive thing there is either.

plus honda motors arent all that great</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmm sounds like you know a lot about crawlers. Boostwerks is correct, that this is not an "all out" crawler as you are saying.
Old 08-17-2008, 11:13 AM
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Default Re: (-RedneckDave-)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -RedneckDave- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hmm sounds like you know a lot about crawlers. Boostwerks is correct, that this is not an "all out" crawler as you are saying.</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha you're right, ut i do know bead locks, tires, 9" rear ends and dana 60's are not cheap, and the honda motor is probably 200 bucks at best
Old 08-17-2008, 03:49 PM
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Default Re: (i drive a honda)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by i drive a honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

haha you're right, ut i do know bead locks, tires, 9" rear ends and dana 60's are not cheap, and the honda motor is probably 200 bucks at best</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sure they are if you are not a honda owner who thinks a full custom turbo kit should look like something for NASA and cost as much as a big mac.
Old 08-24-2008, 12:50 AM
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Default Re: (K.O.R.E.)

Very cool project!
Old 08-24-2008, 07:08 AM
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light weight is the name of the game. why run dana 60's if ford 9" will do? You're not going to overpower a ford 9", plus it's smaller, lighter, and as stout as you'll need to run big tires using good axles.

If anything, I'd say a b18b with a JRSC would make for a helluva good crawler.....yota axles, 5.29's and lockers.....good 3 links front/rear.....mmmmmmm wheel travel
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