Is This Easy To Cut/Weld?


There's my header off of my H2B swap. I took it off because I need to modify it so that I have more clearance.

There's the clearance. And that's with the coilovers raised up more than I'd like them to be.
My plan is to cut 1.5" or so out of each of the four runners where they go vertical and then have it welded back together. I don't know how to weld so unfortunately I can't do the welding myself, but everything else I will. I'll have to heat the header and bend the bottom of it as well once I have the welding done so that it will clear the oil pan. (You can see in the last pic, it goes down, then goes back up.)
1. Should I attempt to bend the second tube from the left to the left more, so that there's more of a gap between the runners for someone to weld? If so, where do you think I should heat it before bending? I've never heat and bent anything before.
2. Once I have it welded, any advice for bending the bottom? Just heat and bend? I might try something like this.
3. Any ideas on how much is a fair price to pay for the welding work, assuming I get everything all lined up right, ground down beforehand, etc.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Modified by Coomer at 3:43 PM 8/2/2007
Think a little harder.
The runners aren't parallel. So when you cut short the straight parts you'll have to bend the runners side to side a little bit to get everything to line up again. It doesn't look like the header is hanging that much lower than your oil pan as it is. And as it is I would much rather hit my header on something than smack the oil pan.
Anyways, Is it easy to cut and weld, meh it's not too bad, but I wouldn't say it's a really quick thing. There's going to be some adjustment work involved.
The runners aren't parallel. So when you cut short the straight parts you'll have to bend the runners side to side a little bit to get everything to line up again. It doesn't look like the header is hanging that much lower than your oil pan as it is. And as it is I would much rather hit my header on something than smack the oil pan.Anyways, Is it easy to cut and weld, meh it's not too bad, but I wouldn't say it's a really quick thing. There's going to be some adjustment work involved.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Niles »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Think a little harder.
The runners aren't parallel. So when you cut short the straight parts you'll have to bend the runners side to side a little bit to get everything to line up again. It doesn't look like the header is hanging that much lower than your oil pan as it is. And as it is I would much rather hit my header on something than smack the oil pan.
Anyways, Is it easy to cut and weld, meh it's not too bad, but I wouldn't say it's a really quick thing. There's going to be some adjustment work involved.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was thinking the same thing, and don't see 1.5 being an issue though. If anything he might have to tweak the runners a little, but it should be weldable.
The runners aren't parallel. So when you cut short the straight parts you'll have to bend the runners side to side a little bit to get everything to line up again. It doesn't look like the header is hanging that much lower than your oil pan as it is. And as it is I would much rather hit my header on something than smack the oil pan.Anyways, Is it easy to cut and weld, meh it's not too bad, but I wouldn't say it's a really quick thing. There's going to be some adjustment work involved.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was thinking the same thing, and don't see 1.5 being an issue though. If anything he might have to tweak the runners a little, but it should be weldable.
Thanks for the advice guys. I did notice that the runners aren't parallel and would require some bending in order to fit. For now, I threw it back on the car, but hopefully soon I'll try modding it to get it ready to weld.
And Niles, the pic is a little bit deceptive...the header is at least 1" lower than the pan, probably more like 1.5". But you do bring up a valid point.
Perhaps I'll just remove 1" from the header.
And Niles, the pic is a little bit deceptive...the header is at least 1" lower than the pan, probably more like 1.5". But you do bring up a valid point.
Perhaps I'll just remove 1" from the header.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RCautoworks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I was thinking the same thing, and don't see 1.5 being an issue though. If anything he might have to tweak the runners a little, but it should be weldable. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah I think you got it.
You do this kind of thing more than I do.
I was thinking the same thing, and don't see 1.5 being an issue though. If anything he might have to tweak the runners a little, but it should be weldable. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah I think you got it.
You do this kind of thing more than I do.
hows about the headers are good, have a skid plate made and slam your ride to the ground so this way your header and oil pan will never suffer just a thought instead of touching your header at all, and prolly alot easeir
but hey if you go for hacking up hte header its totally possible to take 1.5 out good luck
but hey if you go for hacking up hte header its totally possible to take 1.5 out good luck
I vote for a turbo mani and custom DP, anyone else?
Seeing as how thats mild steel, you should be able to bend it a bit to get 1.5" off and a slightly different angle on the runners to make it work. You may have to cut & reweld one of the two collectors again if you don't go on a bend-a-thon.
Seeing as how thats mild steel, you should be able to bend it a bit to get 1.5" off and a slightly different angle on the runners to make it work. You may have to cut & reweld one of the two collectors again if you don't go on a bend-a-thon.
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