chrisgvr4

I've been practicing my aluminum welding a lot lately and finally am getting better at it. My beads are even, not too wide and i'm getting decent penetration to the backside. I can control the puddle and move appropriately to create strong welds on stuff as thin as .035 and up to .25" that i've tried so far. But I look at all the SS pipe pictures here with nice 100% penetration and wonder how to do that on the aluminum or if it's possible?

TIG is a big lincon 375 with a water cooled torch that I borrow from work but with a little more practice I'll feel confident enough to buy my own Dynasty 200dx.

Pictures and tips are greatly appreciated. I'd love to see the backside of some aluminum welds as no one ever seems to post those


Modified by chrisgvr4 at 8:23 PM 1/30/2005

Engloid

It's a bit harder to make a pretty aluminum root (inside weld). You may as well give up on trying to see any ripples in it.

The good thing is that most aluminum work, especially on cars, doesn't need to be full penetration. Usually, people will use either socket weld joints, or fillet weld joints...rather than a butt weld that needs to be full penetration. In most automotive applications, even with butt welds, you'll be better off to not burn all the way through than to push any obstructions into the pipe.

chrisgvr4

Thanks for the reply Engloid. I'll continue my practice on really good penetration with aluminum but it's good to know that my welds are good in automotive apps without it. You are right that most pieces see little if any load (catchcans, etc) and the piping and manifolds that do I feel like although the penetration is less than 100% they will be strong. I'll try to get some pictures of some stuff this week to post up as well. Always gotta keep improving :D

tony1

Would backpurging aluminum help at all? I've never heard of anyone doing it, so i'd assume not, but had to ask.

Engloid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would backpurging aluminum help at all? I've never heard of anyone doing it, so i'd assume not, but had to ask.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You wouldn't be able to tell any difference by purging it. I don't really understand why, but it won't sugar up like stainless will on the back side, without a purge.

Overblown-Teg

I watched one of the biker build offs the other day and the Australian guy laid down a sweet bead on some aluminum.. I noticed he had a decent size gap in the material. Does having the gap allow for penetration without burning through?


I seem to always have the problem of right at the point of full penetration the whole puddle falls out. Should I try using less heat and go slower?

85

Im not what you would call a pro welder (im working on it) but from what i know, when there is a gap the weld sits all the way under the metal not just on top

Engloid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Overblown-Teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I watched one of the biker build offs the other day and the Australian guy laid down a sweet bead on some aluminum.. I noticed he had a decent size gap in the material. Does having the gap allow for penetration without burning through? </TD></TR></TABLE>
It will make it easier to get penetration, and easier to burn a hole.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Overblown-Teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I seem to always have the problem of right at the point of full penetration the whole puddle falls out. Should I try using less heat and go slower? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Just try less heat. The thing that makes aluminum difficult is that it doesn't change color with heat. Therefore, it's harder to tell just how hot you have it.

0project dc2

iTrader: (1)

ok.. question how the hell do you tack alum with no filler or is that impossible &gt;?

Engloid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by project dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> ok.. question how the hell do you tack alum with no filler or is that impossible &gt;? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, it's possible...just likes to crack and doesn't hold well. You may have to just put a spot of filler and then file it down when you get near it with your weld pass.

0project dc2

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Engloid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yeah, it's possible...just likes to crack and doesn't hold well. You may have to just put a spot of filler and then file it down when you get near it with your weld pass.</TD></TR></TABLE>


yeah when i tack it liks to crack off unless i go at it with the filler right away.

Turbo-charged

i haev a hell of a time for that first "tach" after that welding aluminum is easier than steel to me? well...not easier but i can make it pretty easier. some say its cuz my welder sucks...i dunno ive been getting better. just wish i had more time to practice. any tips on that first tach?

Engloid

No big secrets...just rest assured that it will get easier.