10cjennings

iTrader: (1)

Out of town, but can take better pics later

My initial goal was to build an autocross (SMF), track day and eventual NASA TT car that would be quick, reliable and street driven to events. The car never saw a track, I focused on autocross.

I purchased it in 2010 with the K swap. There were small details that had been overlooked/not done to my standards, but the swap was done with high quality parts, and it was a clean, straight chassis with a healthy drivetrain.

I kept the car basically as it was until mid-2013 when I totally rebuilt it; almost all of the things listed below have been done since the summer of 2013.

Every part listed was purchased new, unless noted otherwise. I tried to make the list all inclusive of the aftermarket parts but there’s also a ton of small OEM replacement stuff not mentioned. Every wear part on the car has, at most a thousand street miles and a season of autocross, most are a lot newer.

Where the car is at now it makes a fast and super reliable, local autox/trackday car (Will probably want a full size radiator for track days), but it’s a great base for a 100% SMF build (Built motor, baller shocks,aero ect).

Curb Weight = ~2070 lbs (SMF Minimum is 2050 with 2.4L)
Power = 231whp/192wtq on 93
Asking Price = $11,000
10cjennings@gmail
786-390-367seven


Drivetrain

2007 K24A2 – Purchased from South Florida Auto Salvage with 42k miles on 12/27/2013. Looked at a 7-8 motors, this was the only one with perfect leak down numbers. Literally came out of a grandma’s automatic TSX.
50* VTC Gear
4-2-1 Hytech Replica Header
RBC Intake Manifold
P2R Heatshield Manifold Gasket
B Series Throttle body conversion (No more K-series TPS issues)
Skunk2 B2k TB Adapter
Skunk2 70mm TB (TB flange and adapter are port matched to 70mm)
3.5’’ Intake /w Velocity Stack
3’’ Exhaust (35’’ long resonator and turbo style muffler keeps it pretty quiet)
Kpro Version 3 (PRB-305 ECU)
Tuned by B.R.I.A.N. (Dyno Graph below, my previous k20a2 made 215/156 on the same dynojet)

EP3 Transmission (Purchased with 60k in March 2014, the internals looked great so I just replaced the seals. The LSD, hubs, 36mm axles and related parts all went in at the same time.)
MFactory 1.0 Way Clutch Plate LSD
MFactory Magnetic Drain Bolts (Engine and Trans)
Koyo Differential Bearings
Karcepts 36mm Hubs (/w ARP Studs, Koyo wheel bearings)
MTEC Race Shift Kit (Aluminum Shifter Ball, pivot ball, and race springs)
K Tuned Shift Cables
Hasport Mounts
Hybrid Racing Fuel Rail
Hybrid Racing Clutch Line
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator
K Tuned Inline Fuel Filter
K Tuned -6AN Braided Fuel Line Kit
K Tuned Shifter Mounting Kit
Fluidyne Half Size Radiator /w Slim Fan
Karcepts Radiator Relocation Kit
Hybrid Racing Swap Harness
Odyssey PC680 Dry Cell Battery (In trunk)


Wheels & Tires
15x6.5 Steelies with 205/50/15 Yokohama S. Drives. I use these for storage, or in case I need to drive the car on the street.

15x8 +35 Kosei K1, The hub bores were machined from Miata to Honda hub bore, no spacer required. These wheels were bought from a racer, one has some minor curbing and another has some more significant gouging. I bought them this way; they’ve all held air and balanced perfectly over the 2 years I’ve been auto crossing on them and it has never worried me.

225/45 Z214 C71 with 6 events, lots of life left

Suspension – was bone stock until early 2013, it’s been developed over that time. All parts purchased new.

Corner Balancing & Alignments by Albert @ APEX ALIGNMENT – All specs on file
Modified Manual Steering Rack with Quafie 2.5 LTL (QSF10U001) quick ratio kit for the 4th gen civic/crx. The rack was rebuilt when this was done; here’s my write-up: https://honda-tech.com/forums/road-racing-autocross-time-attack-19/how-quaife-88-91-2-8-ltl-quick-rack-pinion-into-92-95-steering-gearbox-3170268/
I also have all the parts necessary for Power Steering except a high pressure line (custom/w JIC fittings= $50): totally rebuilt integra rack, Tsx pump, rsx reservoir and Hybrid racing low profile –AN adapter)
Koni SPSS3 Race Shocks
Ground Control Coil over Sleeves
Eibach Springs (600/750)
HardRace Top Hat Bushings
HardRace Front and Rear Upper Control Arms
HardRace Front Compliance Bushings
HardRace Front Lower Control Arm Bushings
HardRace Rear Trailing Arm Bushings
HardRace Rear Toe Links
Moog Balljoints
GSR Front Strut Brace
GSR Front Lower Trailing Arms (For swaybar mounting points)
GSR Front Sway bar components (endlinks, bushings, brackets, hardware)
GSR 24mm Front Sway Bar
Skunk 2 Rear LCAs (Came with the car, and they have 3 swaybar mounting points)
ASR Rear Subframe Brace
ASR 24mm Rear Sway Bar
ASR Spherical Sway Bar Endlinks
94-97 Integra 1’’ Master Cylinder and Brake Booster
98-01 Accord EX 4-Cyl Front Calipers
94-01 Integra Rear Calipers
Hawk HP+ Pads
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
949 Racing Lug Nuts

Body/Interior

Painted by the previous owner. Body/interior is Frost White, Roof is black, bay is blue. Paint has held up very well over the time I’ve owned the car but it has nicks and dings, most from me being careless with tools. I’d rate it 8/10.

There was a small bit of rust in the driver side rear fender lip. I painted it with POR15 when I bought the car and it hasn’t changed/spread at all. 2 small bubbles in the paint and the rest was only in the inner lip of the fender, and isn’t visible without getting under the car. Rest of underside is super clean, definitely never saw real winters.

The hood has 3 dings from below where it was hitting when I first swapped the K24 and RBC.

A leaky brake master cylinder caused some paint wrinkling in that corner of the bay. It was replaced with a new oem MC.

Interior is in awesome shape, (I remove the radio, speakers, rear seats, seatbelts and cargo cover per SMF rules, but I have them, they are in perfect condition).

Ultrashield 15’’ Spec Miata Seat
BuddyClub Super Lowdown Sliders
Mugen Racing III Steering Wheel
Momo 4911 Hub
1995 Si Interior
OEM Si Front Lip, Radio Block off Plate, Antenna Block off Plate, Rear Wiper Plug, Mud Guards

Recently Replaced OEM Parts (Off the top of my head)
Front Upper and lower ball joints
Hood latch assembly
Hood hinges
Wheel Bearings
Axle boots/grease
Window Regulators
100% of the wiring (Cabin, Charge, Engine, Swap, taillight harness)
Radiator Hoses
Front Sway Bar Bushings, End links, Hardware
Brake Hardlines
Brake Master Cylinder
All motor and transmission seals
Serpentine Belt
Belt Tensioner
Hardware everywhere
02 Sensor


Spares
The parts necessary for Power Steering except a high pressure line (custom/w JIC fittings= $50): totally rebuilt integra rack, Tsx pump, rsx reservoir and Hybrid racing low profile –AN adapter)
Assorted spare engine sensors
Pair of OEM 36mm Axles, various 32mm axles in several states of completion, 32mm hubs
21mm EG EX Front sway bar with endlinks, bushings, brackets ect.
1” Brake MCs, OEM soft lines, hardlines
Full EG Si Interior (Front/Rear Seats, Door panel’s /w everything for power windows, cargo cover)
Wiring harnesses (extra engine and swap harness, wiring for radio and power door panels too)
Remains of my missshifted K20 (block, oil pump, water pump,rods, pistons, timing chain, guides ect.)
PRB ECU with V1 Kpro that isn’t working 100%(It ran my k20a2 well but won’t connect to K Manager, Hondata should be able to fix it)
Assorted bushings and control arms
Assorted Seals, gaskets, ect.
Type S Flywheel, clutch and Pressure Plate /w 50k
All the under dash components needed to install A/C, heater (Heater core, cabin fan, EVAP box)
Anything else that isn’t coming to mind at this moment, any other Honda parts I have are yours

10cjennings

iTrader: (1)

Ttt

10cjennings

iTrader: (1)

Ttt

10cjennings

iTrader: (1)

Ttt

10cjennings

iTrader: (1)

Ttt

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

Please see here: http://hondamarketplace.com/announcement.php?f=42&a=43