When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'd crack it open and check out the final drive gear. See if you could rebuild it with an ATB style LSD, like the type-Rs have. Helical LSDs are superior in several ways, and as this is a "viscous" type, its going to be limited in the amount of power, but consider a B or K series front wheel drive transaxle, and the honda helical LSD can take over 1000hp.
I'd crack it open and check out the final drive gear. See if you could rebuild it with an ATB style LSD, like the type-Rs have. Helical LSDs are superior in several ways, and as this is a "viscous" type, its going to be limited in the amount of power, but consider a B or K series front wheel drive transaxle, and the honda helical LSD can take over 1000hp.
I think, you are not familiar with the INTRAC 4wd system.
The clutch-type LSD is a mandatory thing in the INTRAC (at least on tarmac), as it does not have a center differential.
It basically has two options: some slippage is allowed via the lsd, like in the regular RT4WD systems, but,
it also has a dog-clutch to disengage the rear completely on various conditions, to avoid excessive heat build-up inside the clutch-pack.
Actually, the INTRAC rear diff is not really the weak point in the setup,
the axles and the D-series 4wd transmission (gears, front diff, shift forks, transfer case) are the limitations.
According to a Polish guy (who has around five RTSi's with his friends, some of them are turbo) the rear diff easily survived 3-400hp,
but even if you have better axles, the transmission will still fail above 300hp, and there's no cure for this yet
Also, you could not use the B or K series trans, as the ratios are totally different, and the INTRAC system is relying on the ABS wheel speed sensors and on the speedo signal.
I have driven this diff with b series gearbox and had no problems. The ratios are different, but not enough to cause any issues. K series gearbox has the same transfer ratio as civic wagons d series gearboxes. I counted teeths by myself. All gearboxes were EUDM.
I have driven this diff with b series gearbox and had no problems. The ratios are different, but not enough to cause any issues. K series gearbox has the same transfer ratio as civic wagons d series gearboxes. I counted teeths by myself. All gearboxes were EUDM.
This diff is operated via the ABS/ALB sensors, the different drive ratios are constantly eaten up by the differential (not good on the long way, will burn the LSD), or the system will just disengage the rear diff if there's too much difference.
I have driven this diff with b series gearbox and had no problems. The ratios are different, but not enough to cause any issues. K series gearbox has the same transfer ratio as civic wagons d series gearboxes. I counted teeths by myself. All gearboxes were EUDM.
Which K-series 4wd tranny you tried? That's great news
Guys i have a few questions/problems with intracj rear diff. (i think there is no need to start new thread :D )
The alb/abs light and diff light on dashboard are on cause previous owner change front CV to one without ABS ring. I've bought ring same as one from other side but the lights are still on.. How reset this to have abs working??
Second thing is that when i'm driving my wagon and the diff is getting warm, the dog cluth is starting to immediately attach and disconnect the diff and it sounds like big "Knock" very big :D anyone know why could that happend?
And third thing is what oil i should i put in the diff?? I have Honda HGO 3 SAE- 90 GL5 now, but i'm wondering if that diff has LSD, should i put oil for LSD diff's??
02-21-2015, 01:22 PM
Rare RTSi INTRAC rear diff info
