multiple transmission assembly problems
hi guys, ok, just a little fyi,
i have 3 transmissions.
1 - integra ls transmission
2- integra gsr transmission
3- b16 with ls final and type r lsd
ok the ls was on my car, i broke a shift fork, pulled it off, then this past spring when i pulled it i put the b16 transmission on, something happened with 5th gear and it won't go into 5th, it violently bucks out of gear and wil lnever go in.. so i bought a gsr from a guy in the for sale forums, very reputable, but apparently he has dicked me cause it is frozen up and he won't answer emails at all.
so i pulled the b16 off the car friday night, but before we put the gsr on we wanted to open it and see why it was frozen
gsr- when you loosen the bolts on the outer case, the transmission gears all turn freely, when you tighten them back down, they get in a bind, sounds like something wasn't put on right? i don't know...
ls transmission - we welded the shift fork back and put it back on, but when you pull the shift rod out into 2nd 4th, etc it makes a loud grinding noise, only when casing it back on.
b16 - all gears, synchros', everything looks perfect! but it bucks out of 5th, and when putting housing back on, the counter gear shaft has has to seat into a clip on the outter end of the transmission casing, i can't get it to clip back in.. even when spreading clips and prying upwards, it was just fine on the others, this one is being a PITA,
basically, with this situation i'm in, it was either bring one to a shop, pay ooddles to have it fixed, or try myself, i tried to avoid doing all this and paying 600+ for what was supposed to be a good transmission and it apparently isn't, and he admitted to having to replace the casing that bolts to the block because it has stripped threads and apparently he didn't get it back right and now is ignoring my messages, so beware of boracituning in florida, he apparently will jip you and not make things right, atleast it seems this was thus far.
but if anyone knows or has insight on what the problem may be, tips anything will be appreciated, and oh by the way, i don't ever plan on having to do this crap again, and i have serious respect for you guys that tear these things apart everyday, i find them to be a pain in the ***..
i have 3 transmissions.
1 - integra ls transmission
2- integra gsr transmission
3- b16 with ls final and type r lsd
ok the ls was on my car, i broke a shift fork, pulled it off, then this past spring when i pulled it i put the b16 transmission on, something happened with 5th gear and it won't go into 5th, it violently bucks out of gear and wil lnever go in.. so i bought a gsr from a guy in the for sale forums, very reputable, but apparently he has dicked me cause it is frozen up and he won't answer emails at all.
so i pulled the b16 off the car friday night, but before we put the gsr on we wanted to open it and see why it was frozen
gsr- when you loosen the bolts on the outer case, the transmission gears all turn freely, when you tighten them back down, they get in a bind, sounds like something wasn't put on right? i don't know...
ls transmission - we welded the shift fork back and put it back on, but when you pull the shift rod out into 2nd 4th, etc it makes a loud grinding noise, only when casing it back on.
b16 - all gears, synchros', everything looks perfect! but it bucks out of 5th, and when putting housing back on, the counter gear shaft has has to seat into a clip on the outter end of the transmission casing, i can't get it to clip back in.. even when spreading clips and prying upwards, it was just fine on the others, this one is being a PITA,
basically, with this situation i'm in, it was either bring one to a shop, pay ooddles to have it fixed, or try myself, i tried to avoid doing all this and paying 600+ for what was supposed to be a good transmission and it apparently isn't, and he admitted to having to replace the casing that bolts to the block because it has stripped threads and apparently he didn't get it back right and now is ignoring my messages, so beware of boracituning in florida, he apparently will jip you and not make things right, atleast it seems this was thus far.
but if anyone knows or has insight on what the problem may be, tips anything will be appreciated, and oh by the way, i don't ever plan on having to do this crap again, and i have serious respect for you guys that tear these things apart everyday, i find them to be a pain in the ***..
when mine locked up like the B16 tranny, i had the 5/R hub on upside down making it sit up just a hair so it would spin fine but when i closed the case it pushed up too hard on the bearing and locked it up. the bearing was ruined but i flipped the hub around and threw another bearing in and i've been driving it now and its fine. might want to take it apart and look at it to see any gaps that don't look like they should be there. and the 5/R hub i would imagine would be a good possibility, since its about the easiest thing i can think of to get off aside from the R synchro
GSR, shim the diff and mainshaft
LS, get a new shift fork
B16, pull 5th off and inspect the needle bearing. Check clearances, check synchro ring. The snap ring will seat, sometimes they just take a little trick.
LS, get a new shift fork
B16, pull 5th off and inspect the needle bearing. Check clearances, check synchro ring. The snap ring will seat, sometimes they just take a little trick.
when mine locked up like the B16 tranny, i had the 5/R hub on upside down making it sit up just a hair so it would spin fine but when i closed the case it pushed up too hard on the bearing and locked it up. the bearing was ruined but i flipped the hub around and threw another bearing in and i've been driving it now and its fine. might want to take it apart and look at it to see any gaps that don't look like they should be there. and the 5/R hub i would imagine would be a good possibility, since its about the easiest thing i can think of to get off aside from the R synchro
ls, we welded the shift fork back to look original, but small variances could be whats causing the funky grinding noises when in 2nd or 4th, although these noise are not present with the casing off, only when put on, but as you know the slider rods are re adjusted when the casing lines them up.
ok yes i figured on the b16 that it was a synchro or another ring, visually they inspect to be ok, but what was killing us last night as putting the housing back on this one, the ring in the housing is maybe messed up or something, because we cannot by any means get the stack to clips back into the clip, its very easy on the other two, we did it maybe 25 times, this one is being a pain, after 5 hours last night we gave up on it.
ok i finally got a reply from this guy, here is his explanation to the gsr transmission he just sold me and why its so tight -
"The trans is not bound up. I turned it before shipping. After i installed caseing i make sure lock pin locks and they turn always. This one very tight b/c i added an extra washer by the diff on the outer housing. Only becuase they last longer this way. Im not a fan of the open bearings."
Does this sound right guys and is this ok? if he added it that means he tried to improve on honda's design, should i remove it or let it fly?
"The trans is not bound up. I turned it before shipping. After i installed caseing i make sure lock pin locks and they turn always. This one very tight b/c i added an extra washer by the diff on the outer housing. Only becuase they last longer this way. Im not a fan of the open bearings."
Does this sound right guys and is this ok? if he added it that means he tried to improve on honda's design, should i remove it or let it fly?
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thats what i thought... common sense would tell you with the R&D that has went into designing that transmission, if the tranny needed that washer, honda would have put it there.
when mine locked up like the B16 tranny, i had the 5/R hub on upside down making it sit up just a hair so it would spin fine but when i closed the case it pushed up too hard on the bearing and locked it up. the bearing was ruined but i flipped the hub around and threw another bearing in and i've been driving it now and its fine. might want to take it apart and look at it to see any gaps that don't look like they should be there. and the 5/R hub i would imagine would be a good possibility, since its about the easiest thing i can think of to get off aside from the R synchro
ok see where i posted the sellers comment about the washer, does anyone have an idea what he means or which one exactly? is the the cupped looking washer that goes over the differential bearing? if so i only see one, he says on the outter housing, thats the only one i know of but i don't see two..
ok, never mind i found it, bout to take a picture and upload, he says its better this way, what you guys think, personally i think two should not be there, opinions? leave it? suggestions on getting it out if not?
here are the outter casings for the gsr and ls transmissions, both are non lsd.

here is the washer/cover whatever that goes over the open bearings on the open differential for the gsr.
Pictures are not too precise, but there are two washers behind there, i can see them through an opening.

and the ls housing ( just for comparison)

i'm sure these pics are very hard to tell and do not justice, but the gsr with two washers actually causes the cupped washer to force down onto open bearings pressing the diff making it feel bound up, but its very very slight, of course you can't turn input shaft by hand. i can put on housing and even 3-4 bolts and its not until they are all in and torqued down that it feels this way

here is the washer/cover whatever that goes over the open bearings on the open differential for the gsr.
Pictures are not too precise, but there are two washers behind there, i can see them through an opening.

and the ls housing ( just for comparison)

i'm sure these pics are very hard to tell and do not justice, but the gsr with two washers actually causes the cupped washer to force down onto open bearings pressing the diff making it feel bound up, but its very very slight, of course you can't turn input shaft by hand. i can put on housing and even 3-4 bolts and its not until they are all in and torqued down that it feels this way
ok update, i got transmissin back together and bolted back on the car, once i got transmission back together and everything, i took an old clutch disc and put it over the shaft and turned it like a steering wheel, took about 3lbs of force to turn it, so fairly easy, but you can't turn it by hand, not enough grip or torque.. so yes its pressed a little harder, and may cause bearings to wear faster, but thats what i gotta go with for now..
cause the car absolutely has to be done today and i when i beat on the washer to get it out it was not budging, i presumed it was pressed in, so i had to leave it..
this is my first rodeo when it comes to the inside of a transmission, i learned a great deal about it but i'm also on a deadline.
wrong. on the outer casing which he has pictured, there's normally 2 washers behind the open bearing cover. one thick black one and a thinner silver one. on the inner casing where the diff sits theres only one thick black washer. also, usually ls transmissions don't come with open bearings like you have pictured, so i'd count the teeth to check because i think you have 2 gsr transmissions.
ok, let me explain that situation... BTW in my honda owning life, i've had the transmission woes.. haha, anyways here goes.
a few years back, before i knew how to do my own transmission, i broke a shift piece inside my jdm sir transmission that came with my jdm b18c. The guy at the import shop showed me the part i broke, told me you can't buy only that part, now years later i've found places that sell each individual part. but because he told me that, i agreed with him to buy another transmission, so i ordered a gsr transmission for like 925 bucks from him.. i'm thinking he got some POS gsr transmission from a junk yard for like 100 bucks or so, i was thinking i was gonna get something in awesome condition, but once he put it on and i drove it, i was pissed, in reverse it made a very loud clicking noise and each gear was super sticky and i threw a fit, and he knew it was wrong and was hoping i wouldn't notice. So he went to honda and got new gears/shaft to fix the problem, but honda sold him ls gear shaft and he thought he was getting b16, so he had tranny shop swap over gears onto gsr shaft.. so long story short.. its a gsr transmission with ls 3/4/5 gears and the original gsr 1/2 which is the same ratio as the ls, so i call it my ls tranny.
a few years back, before i knew how to do my own transmission, i broke a shift piece inside my jdm sir transmission that came with my jdm b18c. The guy at the import shop showed me the part i broke, told me you can't buy only that part, now years later i've found places that sell each individual part. but because he told me that, i agreed with him to buy another transmission, so i ordered a gsr transmission for like 925 bucks from him.. i'm thinking he got some POS gsr transmission from a junk yard for like 100 bucks or so, i was thinking i was gonna get something in awesome condition, but once he put it on and i drove it, i was pissed, in reverse it made a very loud clicking noise and each gear was super sticky and i threw a fit, and he knew it was wrong and was hoping i wouldn't notice. So he went to honda and got new gears/shaft to fix the problem, but honda sold him ls gear shaft and he thought he was getting b16, so he had tranny shop swap over gears onto gsr shaft.. so long story short.. its a gsr transmission with ls 3/4/5 gears and the original gsr 1/2 which is the same ratio as the ls, so i call it my ls tranny.
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ZCHondaCRX91
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Sep 3, 2015 07:00 AM





