Kyokugen lugs suck. do not buy them . is it safe to drive with only 3 lugs on? how can i fix this lol

 

dam u better no t drive at all! cuz if they unscrew

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gmanz73 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dam u better no t drive at all! cuz if they unscrew </TD></TR></TABLE>

Is it THAT hard to speak in English?

You're fine driving it around on 4 lugs. Just get it fixed as soon as you get a chance. Also, don't take your car to ridiculous speeds.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Is it THAT hard to speak in English?

You're fine driving it around on 4 lugs. Just get it fixed as soon as you get a chance. Also, don't take your car to ridiculous speeds.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you mean 3 lugs and how do i fix it? buy a new hub?

 

no its becuz i wuz typing too fast

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gmanz73 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no its becuz i wuz typing too fast </TD></TR></TABLE>

And you still can't take that extra 1-2 seconds to type it out correctly?

But Nope, you just have to extract the old stud and have a new one installed. Sometimes this requires the hub to be pulled out, sometimes it doesn't; check your manual or a technician to see what needs to be done.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by es_squared &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you mean 3 lugs and how do i fix it? buy a new hub?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Haha, and yeah, I meant 3. You can drive w/ one lug missing on a car.

 

once i was driving and when i came to my house i saw that my lugs were all unscrewed half way. if it wasnt me going to my house i would have gotten in to an accident.

 

yeah i drove with 3 lugs on the car, then the track officials kicked me off the track

it was okay, but i wouldNT want something to happen...


Modified by turbochic at 4:17 PM 9/24/2004

 

i break studs all day at work. thats what 750ft-lbs of torque will do without a torque stick. takes 10 minutes to put a new one on

 

It depends on the working space behind the wheel stud. On some cars you can get away with having the hub still on; others you cannot.

There is a ghetto way of grinding crap to install the stud but I advise against it.

 

Easy to replace. I too hate kyokugen, had to order a new key cuz the old one was stripped. Don't recommend to anybody either.

 

mine are fine... i spray wd-40 on each lug before tightening and i torque it to spec.. snapping a lug isnt the lug nuts fault anyways...

 

my budy said he just bought a new stud and hammered the old one out? can anyone gime more details on this method? cuz itll cost me only 3 bux hehe

 

ur buddy is right. Hammer old one out, slide new one in put on nut and tighten (this will pull the new one in easier w/o having to hammer) do again with rim on and check to make sure it's in all the way.

 

do i have to taek off anything else, cuz i cant see the back of the stud.. do i have to remove the baffle plate as well? and how much hammer does it take

 

congratultions. next time use a torque wrench.

i have NEVER seen a stud break if it was torqued to 80 ft/lbs.
even on 11 second drag cars, and awesome road race cars.
i'm almost 100% sure that horsepower/torque are not the reason your studs broke, and don't blame the lugs. blame yourself and buy a torque wrench.

 

lol, what are you saying? 1. the lug was rusted onto the stud. and 2. the key was tripped too. so shut the **** up

 

I've had this happen on my car. I was using a torque wrench, and only had them at 80. But they became cross threaded Just hammer out the old one and slide the new one in. I had to do the good old grind trick so it didnt shred any of the thread sliding it in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blueintegra90 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i break studs all day at work.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you should think about another profession


its not hard to replace... hammer the old one out... and with a new stud.... take it to a grinder, and grind the edge down on the mushroom shaped part flat... that wy itll be able to slip passed the hub assembly... and you avoid the 100 dollar charge for dismantling the hub and what not.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by INCNTRL4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I was using a torque wrench, and only had them at 80. But they became cross threaded </TD></TR></TABLE>

lugs don't just cross thread for the hell of it. either YOU cross threaded it on there, or the thread pitch was wrong.

also, do any of you guys(especially those with aftermarket lug nuts) use anti-seize lubricant? any time i used non OEM lugs, i made sure i put some of that on the threads.

another thing to take into consideration is that when honda designed the lug nut and stud combos used on integras, they made it for HONDA LUGS. you guys have to realize that when you use non OEM lugs, especially aluminum, you're putting your wheel studs at risk. another thing, steel and aluminum heat up and cool down at different rates, so even if the lugs were "warm", the threads could have still been heated up a good amount, which could cause a lug nut to strip on its way out or even :gasp: break a stud!
no, i won't shut the **** up y0. just making a point. and if i am coming off as a dick, i don't mean it. this would be the same conversation if we were sharing a pitcher of beer in a bar.

 

ok seems like its different for replacing the studs on preludes (93), cuz i looked behind the rotor and i coukldnt see the back of the stud, do i have to remove the splash shield first or anything&gt;?

 

I agree Kykugen lugs SUCK *****! I lost a wheel to those damb lugs!!

 

i would not drive. i was in a ford bronco, which is 5 lug, anyways 1 lug was missing it snap while driving. the end result was the wheel flew off while driving at 75mph. came to a stop on the rotor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blueintegra90 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i break studs all day at work. thats what 750ft-lbs of torque will do without a torque stick. takes 10 minutes to put a new one on</TD></TR></TABLE>

750? your an idiot.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XtraFastCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mine are fine... i spray wd-40 on each lug before tightening and i torque it to spec.. snapping a lug isnt the lug nuts fault anyways... </TD></TR></TABLE>

never lube them with oil or wd-40, only use anti-seize.

putting a new one on usually consists of :
1 taking off the brake caliper and caliper mounts.
2 taking off the brake rotor.
3 hammering the old stud out (put the other lug nuts on so you dont accidently damage the threads on the good ones)
4 putting the new stud in the old ones place (some studs have a straight mark which should go on the inside, just look at your original ones for referance)
5 use appropriate washers as spacers on the new lug nut so you have just enough room to put on a lug nut to tighten it and pull the new stud into place
be careful doing this or you might damage the new stud. i like to use a shock bolt as a spacer then put the lug nut on and tighten it slowly until the stud seats into place.

your fine driving on 3 lug nuts.
its okay to drive with a minimum of 3 lug nuts.