4drctr420

my b18c5 crank pulley/harmonic balancer has had a couple chunks taken out of the a/c portion and a small bit out of the power steering portion. i have read somewhere a while back about being able to get it machined.

im perfectly fine with losing the use of a/c and power steering and i trust the machinist make sure its balanced, im just concerned that when it gets machined it will obviously change the weight of the pulley.

will this change in weight and dimensions throw off the resonant frequency that it is meant to damper and cause potential harm to my motor?

here is a pic of my pulley

tron_

Im not 100% sure but my reasoning would be that since you would take an even amount off the pulley, tangential momentum wouldnt be changed.

4drctr420

i was thinking of getting him to take it down to just past the outer lip of the power steering portion, either that or just remove the a/c portion and shave down the outer lip.

sc34dc4

iTrader: (1)

For the price it's probably going to cost you just buy an oem Ctr pulley. Basically that's what you'll have once machine work is done.

4drctr420

i thought the ctr pulley didnt have a harmonic balancer? from what ive learned only trust stock or an aftermarket one that covers all ranges like fluidampr.

and cost is not an issue, im surrounded by machinists, and my buddy said he'd get it done.

im just not sure if it is a good idea as it might loose its ability to be a harmonic balancer and be left with a POS pulley thats going to harm my type r. although i only plan on using it momentarily before i get a new oem and then keep it as a spare

sc34dc4

iTrader: (1)

You do realize the Ctr pulley is an oem Honda part? Why would they use it if it was going to harm your engine.

94blur

I never heard of getting something like that machined but if it gets balanced, I don't see it being a problem. If it were up to me, I would replace it.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

i dont think harmonic ballancer would be effective with half of the pulley missing. its designed for specific weight.
and probably old have you checked the rubber part to make sure its not separated?


honda rotating assembly is ballanced individually

hondamark35

rubber deterioration would be my biggest concern (...that's what she said...) with using an old pulley and modifying.

reducing the mass of a damper shifts it's damping frequency. how much it shifts it and whether it would shift it out of the required range... all unknowns.

my gut feeling is that it would be fine with that amount of mass removed. i'm sure it would be better than the aluminum underdrive crap from eBay. Still, better to spend a little and get a good OE part like the CTR pulley. put the blame on them if something fails, not on you or your machinist friend.

bnetkillzone

Dont machine it, is missing pieces of metal, therefore it would weight less and not be "Balanced" for the weight it should be. Just get a used one OEM. Pick N Pull, whatever you can get. Just make sure it looks ok.

sc34dc4

iTrader: (1)

If he machines it down to how he was explaining it. Then those missing pieces of metal would be gone anyways. So what you're saying doesn't make any sense really.
Op this company offers it as a service so yes you will be ok to have it machined down. Or go oem ctr
http://www.inlinefour.com/infourn1encr.html

confidence

There used to be a guy here on H-T that would do this for you. I had mine turned by him to have the PS pulley section removed. Did that several years ago and everything has been just fine as far as i can tell. I wish i remember the member's name, maybe someone else will chime in with it. IMO if you are going to ditch PS & AC you may as well go with the CTR pullye. It will probably cost you the same in labor to have the pulley machined as it would to just buy the CTR one

phranky

Well with all the metal chips missing now its not balanced so I dont see how machining it would change anything, as far as hurting the engine. Just make sure the guy is good and balances it properly.

4drctr420

thanks for all the help, think i just going to wait for the oem pulley i ordered to show up instead.the change in mass is my main concern.

and pls correct me if im wrong but i have heard alot of horror stories about the ctr pulley. somewhere in this forum ive read that the ctr pulley is ok on the stock b16 but is not a wise choice for a 1.8L type-r because of less intense frequencies on the 1.6L and the 1.8 relies more on the harmonic balancer. dont take my word tho, im not a technician and not 100% sure in the truth behind this, but it seems to be a common opinion that it is unsafe to use a ctr pulley on a b18c5 so I will believe it and stay safe, i dont care too much if i drop 2 lbs off my pulley. ill be happy just to feel that v-tec again

4drctr420

i hope u dont think im running it like that... i payed good $ for this motor, she is my baby and the thought of hurting it gives me nightmares. i miss it tho

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

so if CTR pulley is not safe why did honda put it on civic type-r?

sc34dc4

iTrader: (1)

It's a choice you have to make. That argument has been around for years. Nobody has any actual proof of it doing harm. It's something that keeps getting passed along and people keep regurgitating it all over the internet. There are 100's of people running it on a DD with no adverse affects.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

i guess it would make sense higher rod/stroke ratio would not be affected by lack of harmonic ballancer especially if the engine is already perfectly ballanced from factory.

but then again you are not driving your gsr at 10000rpm on the track..

from wikipedia.
This engine uses the same block as the Integra Type R (B18CR), which is taller than the B16a block (by approx 17 mm), but with a crank the same stroke as the b16a. It uses longer rods to accommodate for this, which is why the Rod/Stroke ratio is higher than a standard B16.

rd91sib18c5r

Ive had a ctr pulley on my car for over 2 years with no issues.

m3tech95

CTR pulley is safe for CTR's because thats what Honda designed them for. that Rpm range, that bottem end assembly....its simple:

LS= get an LS crank pulley
Gs-R = get a Gs-R crank pulley
B16 = get a b16 crank pulley


OP You can gamble with your motor if you choose. I tend not to want to do that when it comes to spending $2000+ on a built motor. i rather have less money in my pocket and more peace of mind that it was done correctly.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

is there a pulley that has only alternator and power steering ?