I have a B16a1 and I am thinking of boring/honing it to 84mm. Some have said that if I do this I will HAVE TO sleeve it. But I dont know what to think. I plan on boosting this motor with hp goals of 350-375ish. I just want to know what people think I should do. Help me out.


http://www.erlperformance.com

 

the walls will be too thin, therefore you have to sleeve

 

save yourself a blown motor, sleeves.

 

Don't overbore it, it won't do much. A high power motor either has displacement or boost. You obviously don't have displacement.

 

I would...wait I did... I bored my block to 84mm nd will be boosting soon.

 

84mm will still seal up fine and u can boost it. Def gotta sleeve though no doubt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by calrya31 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a B16a1 and I am thinking of boring/honing it to 84mm. Some have said that if I do this I will HAVE TO sleeve it. But I dont know what to think. I plan on boosting this motor with hp goals of 350-375ish. I just want to know what people think I should do. Help me out.


http://www.erlperformance.com </TD></TR></TABLE>


If 350-375 is your goal, then you don't have to bore to 84mm, but if you bore that much then you WILL need to sleeve it. If that is all you want don't sleeve and just make sure you get forged internals. But if you want more power later deffinately sleeve. GL.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KeyserSoze &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If 350-375 is your goal, then you don't have to bore to 84mm, but if you bore that much then you WILL need to sleeve it. If that is all you want don't sleeve and just make sure you get forged internals. But if you want more power later deffinately sleeve. GL. </TD></TR></TABLE>


dont have to bore it? If i dont bore it to 84mm i was gonna go to 81.5mm. Does that sound like a better size for the power goals that I have in mind?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by calrya31 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
dont have to bore it? If i dont bore it to 84mm i was gonna go to 81.5mm. Does that sound like a better size for the power goals that I have in mind?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes. Just keep the stock sleeves and spend money elsewhere like on a set Manley or crower rods, Nice(forged) pistons and Good tuning. 600+ whp has been made on stock sleeves so, you should have no problem reaching your goal. Good luck.

Phil

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaguyef &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes. Just keep the stock sleeves and spend money elsewhere like on a set Manley or crower rods, Nice(forged) pistons and Good tuning. 600+ whp has been made on stock sleeves so, you should have no problem reaching your goal. Good luck.

Phil</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just because people have made 600+ without sleeving, doesn't mean it's safe. Not everybody that jumps off a building will die but I surely wouldn't want to do it. These people that do this with factory sleeves have alot of experience with tuning and alot of motors to go through if something happens. Looks like he is on a budget anyways.

If 350-375 whp is your goal then I would recommend just getting 81.5mm pistons with factory sleeves and a good set of rods @ 14-16psi and spin it out to 9700RPM . 84mm pistons with stock sleeves would make the walls to thin. Not leaving any room for tuning error

 

sounds good, I think I am just gonna bore to 81.5mm and get forged internals.

 

bump.

 

Why bump it? Looks like you made the right choice already.

Sleeved block = overbore for extra displacement since you won't likely need the full thickness of the sleeves anyway.

Stock sleeves = bore .5 over to prep for new pistons. This way, you will retain the full strength of the stock sleeves.


With stock sleeves, the more you bore it out, the more power you will lose because:

(added power due to increase in displacement) &lt; (loss in power due to less boost potential).

But with a sleeved block, since you won't be running the 30+ psi that the sleeves are rated at, you can bore them out a bit without negative consequences.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PHDZINE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
These people that do this with factory sleeves have alot of experience with tuning and alot of motors to go through if something happens. Looks like he is on a budget anyways.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Not me. I have zero money, zero tuning experience, and zero extra motors. All it takes is time. Lots and lots of time. I just leave my laptop in my car and tweak the tuning a bit each time I drive somewhere.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnzoSpeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Not me. I have zero money, zero tuning experience, and zero extra motors. All it takes is time. Lots and lots of time. I just leave my laptop in my car and tweak the tuning a bit each time I drive somewhere.</TD></TR></TABLE>


You say you have zero tuning experience but you drive around with a laptop.

I'm talking about the people that are making 600+ whp on stock sleeves. It takes time to have a good tune for streetability (cold start and cruise) but when you tune for max desired boost thats when mistakes could happen.