ok so i have done some reshearch and havent under stood much.. wide bands who do you read them we will use the plx 300 or what ever the small one.. so my question is if my a/f is 12/8 what does that mean and who to read/ under stand the info the wide band is telling my i dont really what the answre just a good write up where i can find a lot of info thanks. and yes i have gone to pgmfi.org

 

If your a/f radio is 12.8, thats a little rich but you should be okay. Stoicheometric or a "perfect" air/fuel radio is 14.7 i believe. Higher the number, the leaner you are (not enough fuel) and the lower the number the richer you are (too much fuel).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Ej &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your a/f radio is 12.8, thats a little rich but you should be okay. Stoicheometric or a "perfect" air/fuel radio is 14.7 i believe. Higher the number, the leaner you are (not enough fuel) and the lower the number the richer you are (too much fuel).</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks that is exactly what i wanted to know

 

I'm not sure what you are asking exactly... Why would you bother buying a wideband if you don't even understand how they work or what they do? Anyways I'm bored so I'll write something helpful...

1. A stock narrowband o2 sensor is only accurate right around stoichimetric which is about 14.7:1

2. A wideband o2 sensor (and controller) will remain accurate through the entire range (well a wide enough range that it will suit nearly any situation) of air/fuel ratios.

3. A narrowband sensor outputs an analog signal in the form of a voltage between 0 and 1 vdc, this output is read directly by the ecu and used to adjust a/f by adjusting injector duty cycle. This is called fuel trim and the ecu uses both short term fuel trim to correct instantaneously as well as a "learned" trim which is a semi-permanent adjustment to the fueling maps.

4. Wideband sensors require a dedicated wideband controller, this controller provides for the vastly more complicated control circutry required to make the wideband sensor correctly and accurately measure your a/f. Most wideband controllers output their wideband signal as 0-5vdc although soem are programmable. This signal isn't directly usable by a honda ecu (without modifications, but that is beyond the scope of this explaination)

5. Most wideband controllers provide output to a display which will show your actual measure a/f raito. These controllers will also provide a "simulated narrow band output" which can be fed into an ecu designed to accept input from a narrowband sensor.

So in summary, the wideband provides information to the driver via the display, this information is good for keeping an eye on your induction and fuel system. Numbers above 14.7 indicate a lean condition which may cause engine damage by elevating combustion chamber temps and/or inducing preignition/detonation. While decelerating by lifting the throttle the injectors will not be providing fuel and the wideband readout will indicate a very very lean condition, this inormal and is not problematic... Numbers below 14.7 indicate a rich condition which if only moderatly below stoich is nothing worth worrying about but if vastly below stoich engine damage can happen because of cylinder wall "wash down" which can cause premature ring failure and will quickly foul the sensor and the catalytic convertor.

As for how the wideband is used to make the car run better, the output of the sensor is used to determine where changes in the fuel map should be made and then a custom map can be made which corrects for this, also things such as too small injectors, failed injectors, or ignition system misfire can be detected and corrected. As stated above the "simulated narrow band output" can also be routed to your ecu which will allow your wideband sensor to be used as the input by which the ecu calculates trim corrections.

A wideband O2 sensor will not make your car faster or run better unless combined with additional tuning to correct fueling problems....

 

I have the aem system in my car because i am running boost and i need to monitor if my engine were to lean out while racing, If you have a wide band you should have something to help tune your a/f because without it, youll wish you never had the meter in the first place.

If your running 12.8 i hope thats under boost condition because if just NA and just cruising you are wasting fuel and can cause damage to your cat. Under boost im looking at 13.5 which seems to be good for me.

 

13.5:1 in boost? ROFL.. you have to be kidding me? Enjoy the power while it lasts.. as it won't be lasting very long.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ccivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">13.5:1 in boost? ROFL.. you have to be kidding me? Enjoy the power while it lasts.. as it won't be lasting very long. </TD></TR></TABLE>
well instead of just laughing why dont you tell me what you think it should be? and why do you think 13.5 is bad?

 

yes boosting, and we are using uberdata for fule mangement thanks for the info

 

What if your on the other end of the spectrum in which you have already been tuned with the wideband, but still have a narrow band on your car after the tune?? My LED is coming on every now and then because of an O2 sensor problem. Only happend after I got it tuned with Hondata...Im assuming it's reading the tuned map and setting off my LED because it can't reach certain values that the wideband can?? Anyone know?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BiG Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
well instead of just laughing why dont you tell me what you think it should be? and why do you think 13.5 is bad?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Search for archived posts by mase, there is like 2 posts that he made that will explain alot of this..

 

well i want to know why he thinks my setup is bad

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BiG Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i want to know why he thinks my setup is bad</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its bad because its too lean, not much else there to say.. If you dont know why its bad to run that lean then search for the post like I said before..

 

well its not that lean for running a sc setup and pushing 5lbs once i go 8 im going to dial it down to 12

 

13.5 is even a bit lean for some N/A setups. The leanest I would go even in low boost would be 12.5:1. When you're forcing more air into the engine, it gets A LOT hotter.. this is why extra fuel is added. The extra fuel helps keep engine temps cooler and in check, so your **** doesn't melt.

 

well that was easy enough for you to mention, now i can make a adjustment, i got my 550 injectors going in soon too