Just a thought as I was dealing with the spring pin on my shift linkage last weekend. Why not just use a bolt and nut instead of the spring pin? Any other reason besides just getting the little rubber boot to fit over it?

 

The reason for Honda using a "roll-pin" is that it holds tight along the full length of it's shaft.

A bolt only works in tension and unless you tighten it down so much that it compresses the outer piece onto the inner piece, it will not provide as solid a connection.

Wes

 

Out of desperation, I've done it before. I used a M8x1.25 bolt and nut. There was no noticeable slop.

 

my cousin used a reg. bolt and nut but it was kinda loose and it made the shifter feel like it was in neurtal in every gear

 

Although it's a bitch to remove, it seems to work good so i like to keep the pin. A bolt would work but as you stated, the rubber boot wont fit the same. I believe MAC or MATCO sells a special punch that fits into the pin and makes its removal a lot easier. I borrowed the tool from another member and i can't remember if it was made by MAC or MATCO.

 

yea I already found an air hammer chisel made to fit the pin, I'm gonna pick it up soon.

 

I just unbolted the **** from below the shifter and took the whole shift bar out. since I couldn't get the stupid spring pin out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tacticalcustoms &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just unbolted the **** from below the shifter and took the whole shift bar out. since I couldn't get the stupid spring pin out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm guessing you did that when dropping the tranny. We did it that way with my brother's car, as well.

However I couldn't do that in my case most recently, because I first was just replacing the rubber boot that covers the spring pin, and then a few weeks later I was replacing my steering rack.

 

It is so freaking sad that something like the bitch pin stops so many people? Yet most of these people can explain in detail what vtec is and how it works.......anyone see anything wrong with this picture???????

a properly sized drift punch and a hammer gets mine out in less than 5 whacks EVERY SINGLE TIME!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike1114 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It is so freaking sad that something like the bitch pin stops so many people? Yet most of these people can explain in detail what vtec is and how it works.......anyone see anything wrong with this picture???????

a properly sized drift punch and a hammer gets mine out in less than 5 whacks EVERY SINGLE TIME!!!!!!!!!!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have searched numerous places locally and have not been able to find an 8.5mm punch. I just found these special tools w/ the smaller end to fit inside the spring pin in the last couple of weeks.

But then again, it's been several years since I've had to deal with this thing so I wasn't exactly looking before then.

And it's not getting the pin out that's so much a big deal as it is getting it started and back in. I purchased a new spring pin because I figured my old one would be chewed up from beating on it. I didn't have much trouble getting my old one out, but I could not get the new one started. I ended up putting the old one back in.

When I get this air hammer chisel, I'll probably go ahead and pop the new pin in there.

 

only ever met one bitch pin I couldn't remove, so we torched it off!

8mm punch and 2 lb hammer all I usually need, if not the air hammer comes out and the pin yields.

Besides, if your old enough you'd remember Ryan who first used the term doing his ZC swap

 

i throw a little urea grease on the bitch pin when i put it in.
been doing this for years and nver had one fall out. plus the grease makes them way easier to remove.