I have an 88 CRX with a b18c5, PR3 ECU.
Mods include
Fuel Rail
FPR
Cam gears
header
exhaust
hi-flo cat
intake
intake manifold
270 RC injectors

I am having problems at constant throttle.
First when I hooked up the second O2 and held it at constant throttle I would begin to lose a good deal of power. So I unhooked it and it ran fine. Now I get the check engine light coming on and now it is doing the same thing. I kind of studders. Anyone have any thoughts?

Sal

 

check the ecu, what code are you throwing?

 

I know I am throwing code two after I unhook the second O2, if I hook it up no codes, but it runs worse.

Sal

 

Is that with the ITR motor running FINE?? I'm just wondering, did it run right before this problem started because I've seen and had problems on my friend's Rex when I originally dropped a B16 in it for him... Once I got that fixed all was well... The reason I ask about your time was he ran a 13.52@101 with a completely stock motor, stock intake, ACT HD clutch, stock header, 2.5" exhaust, and MT 20x14x6 slicks... I just finished his OBD1 conversion harness after dropping a B18C into it so now when the throttle cable comes in today (it was supposed to be in yesterday) we'll see how it goes... haha Good Luck with your car and let me know if you need anything else, I'll try to figure it out... Peace

 

You need to get rid of that ECU.
THe PW0 and PR3 ecus are the worst things honda has ever made.
IM kenji on this board and buy an ecu adapter so that you can get yourself
a chipped p28 instead. Your car will run 1000X better.

 

DOnt you have to change a few parts? Like the injectors, distributor, and other things? If I were to jump into that I would just get the hondata system and tune it with a laptop. Could I be getting to much fuel or not enough fuel? That 14.4 was on drag radials, and I still had a TPS code, did not have the injectors, intake manifold, fuel rail, FPR, or a different exhaust cam.

Sal


[Modified by ACRXGuy, 2:01 PM 3/5/2003]

 

Yup the GSR head we just got came with the distributor and injectors so all I had to do was wire everything up, chip the ECU, and make the harness convertor.... It took me a few days but it will all pay off... I have to agree with sgT on those PR3 and PW0 ECU's cuz that's what my friend used to have and even after I chipped it, I STILL hated it... I actually think that your setup may be a lil on the rich side... From what I see there is no reason to be running 270's on your car... the stock injectors would have been fine... Good Luck

 

the only thing you will have to change is the distributor.

 

Yea, that's true... I just like the look/style of the OBD2 injectors... clean/easy to release connector

 

I thought the injectors in the OBD-1 were peak and hold where the ones that run on OBD-0 are saturated. Is this right? What about the O2 sensors, for the OBD-1 dont you have to use the 4 wire sensor?


[Modified by ACRXGuy, 3:16 PM 3/5/2003]

 

you would have to run wires for the o2 sensor.
injectors doesnt matter. the older cars are peak hold which require the resistor
box which you should already have anyway. if you wanted to go to saturated
injectors then you would have to remove the box.

 

So the O2 sensors would just go straight to the ECU, and how would I plug up the new distibutor?

Sal

 

you would have to remove the pins from the newer plugs and put them in the older plugs.

 

This is my friend's motor loom that I just made for his OBD1 conversion... As you can see it is wired with the OBD2 distributor and injector connectors... It also has the 4 wire oxygen sensor connector... Peace

 

looks clean except for one thing.... how on earth did you remember which injector plug was which?????

 

hahaha thanks, you can see a bit of each wire.... ya know #1 = brown, #2 = red, #3 = blue, #4 = yellow... haha Just have to keep that in my head... Now i gotta rewire the clusters VSS signal cuz we just went and drove and there's no VTEC... hmmm, probably because I never reconnected the line after I put the JDM GSR cluster in it since we were running a chipped PR3 that didn't look for a VSS signal... haha... It's rainin outside and here at school so i don't have a garage, i guess the VTEC will just have to wait till it's nice outside... Peace

 

Did you check to see if you hooked up the primary and secondary 02 sensors correctly. If I remember correctly:

C8= Primary 02
C16= Secondary 02

That will apply if you're still running the stock PR3/PWO ECU, most chipped OBD-0 ECUs have the secondary 02 sensors disabled. I do agree that the 270cc injectors are a bit of an overkill on an otherwise stock (internally) ITR motor. And also did you say your ECU threw a TPS code? You might want to check the resistance on the TPS signals if you've touched it.

-Jeff C.

 

Yea, I knew about the 270's being a little to much, but It is not hurting the performance either, I plan on going with bigger cams later that is why I put those in there. I will have to check on the O2's I hope it is something as simple as the wires being crossed.

Sal

 

Anyone have the pin-out diagram? I search for it, but unable to find it. Looked on hasports site also, they used to have it but its gone now.

Sal

 

Here is the Pinout Diagram and here is another B series wiring diagram

-Jeff C.


[Modified by jcda6, 2:32 PM 3/6/2003]

 

Are you saying that it's not hurting your performance now or it's not going to be once you do more stuff to the motor cuz for right now just adding those injectors is most likely hurting you... Yes it's better to run rich than lean but you still won't make the power that you could make with your A/F being somewhere around ~12.5:1 (the best power region) Again I would check the oxygen sensors just as jcda6 and I have said.... Peace

 

I am saying that the injectors being 30cc bigger is not hurting performance right now. Unless I turn up the FPR up past stock level. If I had something like 450 in there then I would understand that. I talked to the techs at RC and told them what I was running and they are the ones that recommended getting the 270's instead of the 240's. The car is going to be making more power in the near future, so having 270's is worth it when it comes down to it.

 

Well I switched the O2 wires and it had them crossed I am assuming. If I have the order of the cylinders right at least. If it is 4321, then I had them crossed. It has run smooth for about 2 miles that I could drive it. I am about to take a cruise, thanks for the help also. One more thing. How do you check the TPS voltage. Can you measure the voltage without sheering the wire? Not to familer with that.

Sal

 

The easiest way to test the TPS voltage is to use a digital multimeter... cut back or burn off the a very small section (5mm's or so will be perfect) in the signal wires insulation... Probe into the signal wire and ground off the multimeter... The signal wire on TPS for any MPI car is the middle one... With the lower one (closest to the ground when clipped onto the sensor) being the ground and the top one being the 5volt signal in.... If you motor is idling smooth then I really doubt that is the problem... Normally if the TPS voltage is off you'll get a fluctuation in the idle... If you find that the TPS is out of spec (0.45volts at idle) then adjust it either way till you're on the mark... Doing so will be easiest if your unbolt the TB from the IN manifold and then slot the rivet/screws with a dremel... This allows you to use a slot head and back the rivets out just as any normal screw... Find new screws (I like phillips better) that will work and reconnect the TPS connector to set the voltage before reinstalling... Good Luck and let me know if you need anything else.. Peace