What exactly could arise under situations where you are driving with low engine temps? (low being 150F-165F).

Cooling system consists of: twin-pass twin core aluminum radiator, electric water pump, thermostat removed and replaced with restrictive plate. Obviously the fan is not turned on during this time.

 

Well, if you are running the stock ecu, you will never get out of the cold start maps. The engine needs to be at about 170F to run properly. Running anything below that will make the car run rich under WOT resulting in power loss. Put a thermostat back in.

 

you might be stuck in cold maps and never use ecu-02 sensor combo to adjust a/f ratio

 

also you're eating your bore a lot faster, the increase in wear is more than 10%

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .xcalibur. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, if you are running the stock ecu, you will never get out of the cold start maps. The engine needs to be at about 170F to run properly. Running anything below that will make the car run rich under WOT resulting in power loss. Put a thermostat back in. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I have tuned it accordingly with Hondata...and the thermostat back in is not possible. The electric water pump is between the radiator return and the thermostat, therefore a restrictive plate has to be used instead. Other than a/f (which is taken care of), any other concerns?

 

Anybody?

 

damn, I cant see anything wrong with that at all. I wish I had my cooling sys up to par like you do. Beside the tuning issue ( which you already know and compensated for) the next think I would worry about is the cyl wall/ piston clearance being i a little more than usual. I would take the supposed 10% more wear for the extra hp gained by having a cooler intake charge (in a turbo race motor) but in a street car I would want longevity.
My $.02