well this is from my block. its the oil pressure sender (i think) well i was screwing this in and suddenly it chipped off. now i dont know what to do. what are my options: 1. weld it together 2. weld it shut. 3. JB kwick (do not work) 4. new block or maybe 5. ls/vtec. man this thing is giving me too much problems. please check this addy out and let me know please. any advise, shop, or anything. help. thanks.
http://www.geocities.com/ty_lees/tys...l?997115372501

 

hrm.... that is suck. i think you've outlined some good options. as a temp solution i'd probablly try to JB quick a bolt into there. dunno. not sure how ls/vtec has anything to do with this...

D

 

well if this becomes a big problem i'll probly go for a new block. but if everything works out okay, i'll stick to it.

 

So let's get this straight. Somehow you managed to crack the block in half where your oil sending unit threads in? Ok here is what I would do:

1. Sell your tools
2. Sell your car
3. Rely on mass transit

JB Weld won't work. It will fall apart at a most inopportune moment causing you to spray oil everywhere and make a mess prior to your motor seizing up. The only 2 options you have now are to look around for someone who knows how and is capable of welding together cast aluminum engine blocks or just get a new block.

I still can't figure out how you managed to do that . . . once it doesn't turn anymore it is in.

 

is a 5# sledge hammer included in your percision tool set?

 

so im screwwed then right. the only advise that i seem to be a little helpful is welding it. do i have to use aluminum? can it be easily welded on to. if so what are the equipments?

 

No go ahead and use Silly Putty. You have an aluminum block - Why in the hell would you even ask if you had to use aluminum to weld it back together?

Ok here is more info so that you don't need to research it:

Problem #1: Aluminum is difficult to weld (TIG stick welding required)
Problem #2: Cast metal of any kind doesn't usually weld effectively
Problem #3: Welding of engine blocks is usually more expensive than buying a replacement block.

So why won't JB Weld or that **** from http://durafix.com/ work? Because aluminum has different thermal characteristics than that crap in a tube. When the motor heats and cools the aluminum expands and contracts at different rates. I give it 2 heat cycles and that piece will be sitting on the ground again.

Bite the bullet, call a junk yard and get a new short block and then have someone put it in for you. Tolerances between bearings and moving parts are much tighter than between a sending unit and the block . . . and we saw what happenned with that one.




[Modified by Methos, 5:01 PM 8/6/2001]

 

If you have at least 1/2 of an inch of material where the crack is into the hole, cut the whole broken part off and re-thread the hole.

 

have you seen where damage is done i dont think you cant cut it and just re thread the hole. maybe i'll just weld that sucker shut. or do i need the sender connected

 

so METHOS you recommend using that another glueing substance. i dont know if another glue substance could fix something like this. i tried using all kind except the one you shown. can i just weld that sucker shut without having the sender connected. would that cause any problems? if i do decided to go weld it, what are the chances of that piece staying in place?

 

Ummm . . . slow down. What I said was that none of that stuff will work. You may be able to get it welded back on but the act of re-threading may be enough to break the weld. Once again it is virtually impossible to weld cast metal once it breaks. The molecular makeup of cast metal doesn't lend itself to repairs. Welds just don't stick to it.

My advice is to get a phone book and start calling welding shops. Call and ask if they can weld broken aluminum castings. If so take it to them. I would not weld it shut and not have an oil pressure warning. If you lose oil pressure your motor will be gone long before you know it.

 

There is supposed to be a new method of welding cast that is more like a foundry type process. You grind down part of the crack, as much as possible, there is a powdered form of the material you need that you lay in the grind, and then heat it with a cutting torch.

I found this article in a muscle car mag and they were repairing a cast iron exhaust manifold, but said with the correct melding, they felt that repairing an aluminum intake would also be possible.

The downside of this is the dissassembly and removal of the block before attempting the process. But that is not unlike what you would need to do if you have it TIG'd or replaced anyway.

 

You need to have it welded and the re-tapped to work properly.

Whoever tightened that down went way too far.

Next time, do it hand tight, then 1/8 turn by hand with just your wrist or until tight.

The spec is like 5 ft/lbs on the sender.

 

sorry bout ur block

 

dang man this thing scares me. i hate taking that hole thing out again. but i just might take it to a welding place and see what they can do for me. i dont really want to get a new block i just got the swap not too long ago. dang aint this something.