Looking for some advice here. I have a '92 crx mk2 with B16A1. I have run one 1/4 mile and my starts are poor (on road legal 195/50/15) but got 14.90@91.3mph. My 60' times were about 2.3. I stripped out the passenger and rear seat. My spec is:-

b16a1 128k
supersprint manifold
powerflow 2.25" decat exhaust
15" rota slipstreams with toyo proxies
custom chip
strut braces front upper and both rears
Mugen shocks and unknown springs, 40mm drop
177hp at the fly (last check with 132 at the wheels)
118ftlbs


I have a budget of $2400 to do it up. I currently have first shout on a set of itr cams/springs/retainers and have bought a set of Skunk2 cam gears to install them with. I have a rebuilt LSD gearbox in the garage ready to go and a brand new exedy organic clutch to fit at the same time. I am unsure what to do next. Should I buy valvetrain stuff like Ti springs/retainers? A lightened flywheel? Are there any numbers out there to back up what these add to your setup? What about itr throttle body and inlet manifold? What would give the better advances?

I appreciate that a lot of this is "what it'll do to my individual car" but what I was wondering was, if I have $400 do I buy the flywheel or inlet manifold? Will I need to remap it after changing the T/B and manifold or should it be ok? Would I be better off upgrading the injectors as well as the intake? I would imagine (with my limited knowledge that would require remapping after that?)

Or do I buy a b18c4 and transplant the bottom end in? Or buy nos?

Any advice or comments welcome. Thanks for reading, oh and if anyone has any of the above mentioned bits for sale (or anything a bit special and you would ship to the UK) please let me know, thanks.

 

well , it sounds like you have a pretty decent set-up as it is. what you do next really depends on what you want out of your motor.

do you want to run a wild or mild cam??----if you dont, itr valvetrain will be more than enough for skunk2 stage 1 cams, itr/ctr cams, or buddy club spec3+. if not, you might want to upgrade your valvetrain with something more.

do you want to keep your b16 block or have a 1.8 liter?---you might as well focus on your head, because the head is always something you can keep.

you clutch and tranny are good as they are. depending on how much power you wanna get, you might want to go with a little stronger clutch.

try removing some sound deading from you car to take a little more weight off...maybe your bumper braces or things like that. i hope that answered some questions..your first post was confusing though so let me know if you need any other advice

 

Thanks for the reply. I was really just looking to see what was out there and where other would recommend spending the money. Other options that have arisen are itb's or possibly a b16b swap. Decisions decisions..

 

a b16b swap would be a waste of money.

 

Why? From what I read, the B16b is a great engine. Not so good for turboing but I don't want to go that route. Also, my insurance wouldn't move and it has std 185 hp with 210 attainable with some tuning/mods. It will be more or less plug and play and so easier to do so what makes you say that it will be a waste of money?

Seriously, I'm interested.

 

No one is arguing that it's a bad engine. It's just a lot of money for a power lever you could reach cheaper through other methods. The light flywheel will give your car a great feel, I can't imagine life without mine. The headwork that anothersickhatch mentioned is also a good idea, as you can take it with you. I don't think ITBs would be fully utilized without more internal work; rods and pistons and lots of revs.

And that custom chip you speak of... Look into making your own maps: http://www.pgmfi.org

 

dont get me wrong, the b16b is a great motor. like he said above, i wasnt saying its a bad motor. the price for a b16a and certain mods you can do to it will make it even more powerful than a b16b. the only differences between the two motors are the pistons, intake manifold, header, throttle body, cams and valvetrain components, and mild porting and polishing. if you add up what all those would cost and put them on a b16, you have about the same costs for just buying a complete b16b swap. with a b16a, you might even be able to get a wilder cam and a better header, depending on if you do all the work yourself.

not only that, but rebuilding a b16a to b16b performance standards would give you a newer motor with newer parts.

 

Ok, I see here you are coming from. I was looking at all those mods that you mentioned but I am however in the UK. Stuff over here costs the earth.

I have been offered a b16b for what I think is a good price. It has 33k kms on it and my b16a, although it is running like a dream, has 129k miles. I could sell my b16a and all the bits that go with it and get about a third of the money back that I am paying for the b16b. Then I'd be starting from a better base level, with a MUCH newer engine.

The only thing is that I may need to keep the b16a intake to prevent any obd0 problems (I'm thinking that keeping the obd0 would be easier (and cheaper) than trying to change everything to obd1 or 2) or can the change be done easy enough? I'm reading all I can on b16b swaps at the moment but no-one has done the b16a (mk2 crx vtec) as far as I can find. Maybe I'll document what I do and post it up.