Just started up my JDM b-16 / Clasic Mini cooper swap for the first time yesterday, but shut it off when I saw that the water wasn't flowing. Motor got hot, with fan comming on), but cold bottom rad hose and cold air comming through rad. I thought it probably was a stuck t-stat, or maybe an air pocket after just filling the rad.
Tonight I disconnected the lower hose(not much water in it), and removed the T-stat. I boiled it on the kitchen stove and it opens just fine. So I put it back in the car. By chance I checked the dip stick...... bad news; white oil. Checked the valve cover oil filler cap; same thing.....cream inside on everything. Only ran the motor for 10 minutes, but it was the first time it was running since it left Japan about 8 years ago. It had no water in the oil when I got it back then(out of a 91 CRX front clip that I bought); crankcase was clean with no debri in the pan, Cam valleys also clean.

My first guess is maybe the water pump let go when I started it up. Is anyone familiar with this problem or the Honda b series water pump? If the pump goes out, can it leak water into the crankcase? Or is there another problem spot to check. I don't think it is the head gasket, since it only ran a few minutes and it had no water in the oil when I bought it. What else could go bad from just sitting for 8 years.
Thanks, Steve

Thanks, Steve

 

It seems to me as if it is your headgasket or the head warped or cracked. Did it overheat the first time it got hot? I doubt it's warped or cracked though. Have you ever tried the test kits to see if your hg is bad?

 

The motor was fine when I bought it and this is the first time it has been fired since then. It was just idling in the driveway; It didn't get to hot; I shut it off when the fan came on. There was already water in the oil by then any way, I am sure, or it wouldn't have had time to mix with the oil and make the goop on everything. I bet it leaked in as soon as I put the water in the Rad, or maybe when I first cranked it over. It took 20 minutes to get it started because I had to go get another battery to jump it with.

 

Drain the oil out and put a new filter on and some fresh oil and see if coolant goes in. Did the radiator fluid level go down?

 

There hasn't been water in it for years; I just put it in 20 minutes before starting it; so that is all the time it took to get in the oil. level on dip stick rose between 1/2 to a full quart. and like I said, when I had the pan and valve cover off before,there was no sign of water leakage, oil was clean so it was ok before I put water in and started it.
If the pump froze and broke off, could it cause a leak into the block?

 

I don't see how it could since it just goes through the water hose doesn't it?

 

not coming from the water pump...did you see any smoke from the exhaust ? if you got a bad head gasket u can usually see bubbles in da radiator....flush the coolant and oil ...

 

bad headgasket for sure. when the water pump goes bad it does not leak into the motor.

 

Is there anywhere else it could be leaking in? Even If the head gasket went bad in just 10-15 minutes of idling the motor.(it was ok after the last time it ran), you might get water in the cylinders and out the exhaust. I didn't notice anything coming out the pipes; Or, you might get combustion gasses in the water with bubbles in the rad; I got none of that either. But I don't see how water, esp that much, could get in the oil that fast through a leak in the head gasket? it would have to travel from a water passage, through a bad spot in the gasket, to an oil passage; not into the cyl bores, and, it barely had time to warm up good.
So today, I only had time to drain the pan and rad, and change the oil filter. I put 2 quarts of new oil in and started it up with both rad hoses off, just to flush out the old pasty oil. I ran it for about a minute and shut it off before it got warm. I will do it again tomorrow, then drain the 2 quarts and go through the same process until the oil shows clear again. I'm thinking I might plug the T stat housing outlet and put air pressure to the engine inlet with a fitting on another plug, then see if I can hear where the air is leaking in; maybe pull the spark plugs too and listen there. Any other ideas you guys have tried . I would really hate having to pull the motor and sub frame again; everything has to come off the motor to get it out. BTW, it is in a 66 Mini Cooper and a VERY tight fit. It took me 6 years to get this far with the swap. I hope I get to drive it before I die!
Thanks for the help so far guys. I would attach pics but I don't see a file browse button

 

ok so i had a motor sitting in my garage for a year. I put it in my car started it up and decided that i wanted to build a motor not just drop a bseries in my ef. I took it out when i go to take pics of the head there was alil cream sitting on top of the rails that sit on top of the cams. so i was stumped but what i found out was that condensation actually happens inside of motors when their just sitting around so i just cleaned it drained the oil and put new oil in and then it was fine im not saying this is ur problem but if ur motor has been sitting for 8 yrs. i can only imagine that mayb thats why atleast there is alittle water in there but just stating what happened to me

 

i second the notion of condensation from years of sitting. try draining the oil/changing the filter, and try again.

 

this is what you said...
motor not running for 8 years maybe more and you didnt replace the head gasket. i wouldve rebuilt the whole motor b4.

 

Id would go with head gasket to

 

it could be the headgasket, there is a chance.....but im saying, dont go through all the work and money, just because a bunch of people on the internet said it was a headgasket. change the oil, do the necessary tests, before you do a bunch of costly repairs.

 

truethat!

 

I didn't get to work on it today except start it with block dry and with fresh oil to clear out the goop. It starts and instantly idles nicely at 750 RPM. I think it must be a cracked block/head or corroded through spot on the head gasket. Will do tests ASAP with air pressure in water jackets. Thanks for all the help! If I have to pull the block and subframe to get at it, I think I will just get another motor to save time, Maybe a CTR this time.

 

Idea: Are there any drain-back holes in the head for oil to return to the pan? would they be visable if I removed the pan. If so, I could presurize the water jackets and hear or feel if any is leaking past the head gasket into those drain passages. Just need to be able to see them from the bottom or put a listening tube in them. Anybody got a block handy that they could check this out on.
Thanks, SA

 

Kirk, my business partner, just suggested that I remove the oil cooler(sandwiched between the filter and the bolck) and check it, since it has water lines going through it, there might be a leak inside it.
Has anyone heard of these things leaking water into the oil?.

Also, can you see the oil drain-back holes(that come down from the head)(B series)with the pan removed?
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youre in denial man! lol

 

just because I am in denial, doesn't mean the head gasket is bad.

 

dame that sucks bro!!

 

Just checked the race block sitting in my kitchen. B18, there are two holes in the front corners of the head that go back to the pan and the one port in the back between #3/4 goes down to the breather port, makes a step towards the rear and then down to the pan.


I'm thinking you need to do a compression test.

 

thanks, I will be doing a pressure test on cooling system when I get time.