VTEC Troubleshooting
i was havin troubles and its good info. i wanted it in my recent topics so i could print it later. so please get off my nuts so i can use this. thanks
you can just bookmark the page and look at it later
i dont want this thread turning into a giant "help me my vtec is broken" thread thats why its been in the archives for 6 months.
Ok, I have noticed ALOT of people recently asking about why their vtec isn't working. I'm just going to do some of the basic steps in checking to see why the **** vtec isn't working <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.zeroforum.com/smile/emsmile.gif" BORDER="0">.
1) Oil level, its gotta be FULL. I'm talking at the upper mark on the dipstick.
2) Solenoid, Ok this is a 2 parter. A) take a wire (any wire) disconnect the grey plug on the vtec solenoid and touch the wire to the pos. battery terminal and the solenoid side of the grey 1 pin connector. there should be an audible click from the solenoid. B) If A checks out, remove the solenoid and clean the filter screen. (self explanatory)
3) Speed, the car must be going over 10 mph so the spedo must be working. that means the VSS has to be working. vtec is temperamental isn't it? <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.zeroforum.com/smile/emwink.gif" BORDER="0">
4) more oil, check the oil pan. if its dented POUND IT OUT!. this is why mine wasn't working. the pan was dented in far enough to hit the oil pickup for the pump to cause low pressure situation in the head, no pressure no vtec.
5) ECU Swap out to another ECU that you KNOW vtec works on.
6) Car must be at I belive its 80 degrees or higher so let car get to a normal operating temprature.
7) If none of the above work, you might want to pull the solenoid off the head, remove the solenoid filter and verify the piston moves freely.
Thats a basic troubleshoot for it. if i missed anything or got anything wrong just reply and ill change the info.
If you go through all this and it still doesn't work its oil pressure (the pump) or wiring related. so check all the wires for vtec.
Thats it i hope it helps some people.
Joe
1) Oil level, its gotta be FULL. I'm talking at the upper mark on the dipstick.
2) Solenoid, Ok this is a 2 parter. A) take a wire (any wire) disconnect the grey plug on the vtec solenoid and touch the wire to the pos. battery terminal and the solenoid side of the grey 1 pin connector. there should be an audible click from the solenoid. B) If A checks out, remove the solenoid and clean the filter screen. (self explanatory)
3) Speed, the car must be going over 10 mph so the spedo must be working. that means the VSS has to be working. vtec is temperamental isn't it? <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.zeroforum.com/smile/emwink.gif" BORDER="0">
4) more oil, check the oil pan. if its dented POUND IT OUT!. this is why mine wasn't working. the pan was dented in far enough to hit the oil pickup for the pump to cause low pressure situation in the head, no pressure no vtec.
5) ECU Swap out to another ECU that you KNOW vtec works on.
6) Car must be at I belive its 80 degrees or higher so let car get to a normal operating temprature.
7) If none of the above work, you might want to pull the solenoid off the head, remove the solenoid filter and verify the piston moves freely.
Thats a basic troubleshoot for it. if i missed anything or got anything wrong just reply and ill change the info.
If you go through all this and it still doesn't work its oil pressure (the pump) or wiring related. so check all the wires for vtec.
Thats it i hope it helps some people.
Joe
)3. Speed: Different models have different minimum speeds. (not a big deal)
6. Temperature: Different models have different minimums. Some as low as 50degrees F. VTEC also will not engage if the engine temperature is too high.
I read through this thread and didn't see anything about the VTEC presure sensor. If it's stuck either open or closed, VTEC wont engage.
Most models have a minimum amout of time after the engine is started before it will engage. Usually about 5 seconds. (This is getting picky isn't it.
)And on some automatic models the trans must be in gear. I had a Prelude a couple years ago with a bad shift position switch keeping it from engageing.
You never know when someone may be able to put this information to use. I was surprised by some of it.
CAN SOMEONE TELL ME HOW TO HOOK UP A BUTTON TO ACTIVATE VTEC FOR RIGHT NOW SINCE I DONT HAVE A ECU YET. WHEN I HOOK IT UP WHICH PLUG DO I MESS WITH THE GREEN OR BLACK PLUG???
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i have a s2k (s200) and need help its a 2000 model with 67000 miles and the engine seems really week and when i rev it up over 7500 it starts making this really scary noise heres a video and how my car sounds http://www.outwar.com/page.php?x=2163319
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by s279 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a s2k (s200) and need help its a 2000 model with 67000 miles and the engine seems really week and when i rev it up over 7500 it starts making this really scary noise heres a video and how my car sounds http://www.outwar.com/page.php?x=2163319</TD></TR></TABLE>
Have fun with your outwar troll crap while you can. You wont get much here. then you'll be gone.
Have fun with your outwar troll crap while you can. You wont get much here. then you'll be gone.
Hi there, I got a second gen JDM B16a in my crx, its OBD1 with a chiped P28, now my Vtec is working great on 1st, 2nd and 3rd Gear but got problems on 4th and 5ft . the ecu is set to engage Vtec at 6000 RPM and as soon as the tach hits the 6K on 4th gear the engine light comes on with code 22!!! even if i skip and shift to fift before it reaches 6K(on 4th).. the light always comes on above 6K rpm on 4th and 5ft. my engine is a JDM and doesnt have an Oil pressure switch near the Vtec selenoid. i just simply connected the pressure switch wires together (bypassed)..mayking the ecu think theres oil pressure. not sure if thats the cause,, oil level is fine. screen is clean, selenoid working..and was doing the same even before i chipped the ECU. pleaaseee HELP!!!!!!!!
(Help) ok i have the D series when i bought it had a wire i didnt know what it was for so i disconnected it from VTEC solenoid to pos.also the plug on the side is broke , just making sure its safe to hook it up makes a clicking when i connect the jumper.My main concern will it fry anything? any help would be appreciated !!!!
Last edited by philldeez; Feb 5, 2012 at 08:36 AM. Reason: not enough info
(Help) ok i have the D series when i bought it had a wire i didnt know what it was for so i disconnected it from VTEC solenoid to pos.also the plug on the side is broke , just making sure its safe to hook it up makes a clicking when i connect the jumper.My main concern will it fry anything? any help would be appreciated !!!!
From what I know hooking up a switch to your vtec solenoid does not help.
Your ecu has 2 maps one out of vtec and one in.
Supplying voltage to your solenoid externally locks your lobes in place but does not change your a/f mix.
If your vtec isn't enagaging go threw the chcklist on the first page. I'm sure you haven't yet.
i have a jumper wire running from top of the motor/head solenoid to positive side of battery its a engine swap was hooked up like that when i got it i thought someone was just trying to get power for an amp or something.. my? is will it hurt anything to leave it straight wired like i have it
Disconnect that wire from the VTEC solenoid. You need to run that wire to the VTEC pin location at the ECU. Also you need to get a round connector to plug into your green sensor (VTEC pressure switch) and run that to your ECU as well.





like it has a shift kit when jumper is hooked up or like a vtech is post to run (HELP)